Downpipe bolts are a PITA!

Ken Cunningham

Post No Bills
Joined
May 24, 2001
I am in the middle of replacing my turbo. The new turbo assembly is in and the 3 bolts loosely started.

Is there a secret to getting the spring-loaded downpipe bolts started? I'm about 1/4" from even getting a thread in. Can I put a jack underneath the pipe to left it gently and close the gap? Do I unbolt the downpipe at the bottom?

Maybe you guys all have gorilla grips and can just pull the pipes together, hold the donut in place, align the bolt, and screw them in. It just isn't happening for me
 
Maybe you guys all have gorilla grips and can just pull the pipes together, hold the donut in place, align the bolt, and screw them in. It just isn't happening for me

I must have a gorilla grip. You could jack up on the pipe at the bottom where the cat was to make it easier to put in the bolts.
 
I am in the middle of replacing my turbo. The new turbo assembly is in and the 3 bolts loosely started.

Is there a secret to getting the spring-loaded downpipe bolts started? I'm about 1/4" from even getting a thread in. Can I put a jack underneath the pipe to left it gently and close the gap? Do I unbolt the downpipe at the bottom?

Maybe you guys all have gorilla grips and can just pull the pipes together, hold the donut in place, align the bolt, and screw them in. It just isn't happening for me

Are you running a cat? If so you may want to loosen the bolts on it first and if it is a test pipe also loosen the bolts. I always loosened the bolts before reattaching to the turbo.
 
You should be able to get the downpipe in position with a floor jack under the cat. A little anti-sieze on the threads of the spring bolts is a good idea also.
 
I always undo my DP at the bottom, either from the test pipe, cat or whatever you have down there. Get a helper to hold it at the bottom under the car and the whole process is ALOT easier. I lost my religion many times back in the day trying to bolt my turbo to the DP by myself without unbolting it first at the bottom.
 
I lost my religion many times back in the day trying to bolt my turbo to the DP by myself without unbolting it first at the bottom.

:D That was me, yesterday! I tried everything to align them: C clamps, vice grips, a smaller bolt w/o the spring.

I'll try the jack first, then unbolt if that doesn't work.

Thanks, all, for the help.
 
Dont waste time with a jack...especially if you are by yourself. Unbolt it and be done with it. Then with all your spare time you can go get your religion back.;)
 
If u think you're going to pull the entire exhaust system up by the 2 downpipe bolts very good luck 2 u??? IMO, that's just bad mechanical technique, irrespective of the particular job???

strike
 
If u think you're going to pull the entire exhaust system up by the 2 downpipe bolts very good luck 2 u??? IMO, that's just bad mechanical technique, irrespective of the particular job???

strike

He only needs a 1/4". Why would that not work? It has worked for me.
 
He only needs a 1/4". Why would that not work? It has worked for me.

Evidently it's *not* working 4 him?

All I'm saying is the DP isn't necessarily the preferred place to make your final connection.

Example - I recall taking my buddy's THDP off his turbo housing and not being able to reconnect it to the housing without taking the DP loose from its dump. The 4 bolts simply *would not* align. Lesson learned.

strike
 
Evidently it's *not* working 4 him?

All I'm saying is the DP isn't necessarily the preferred place to make your final connection.

Example - I recall taking my buddy's THDP off his turbo housing and not being able to reconnect it to the housing without taking the DP loose from its dump. The 4 bolts simply *would not* align. Lesson learned.

strike

Gotcha!;) Just did not know where you were going before.
 
Turbobuick.com to the rescue yet again.

I unbolted the 4 bolts after the cat. With the d/p & cat now hanging free, it was not too hard to get the 2 spring bolts started. When the turbo was finally cinched down, I rebolted the cat to the tail pipe.

Job done and the Regal screams again! I didn't even need to adjust the d/p since it doesn't rub or bang against anything.
 
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