Drain Tube Flange Thickness Aftermarket Type

salvageV6

Daily Driver
Joined
May 25, 2001
Anyone know the typical drain tube flange thickness on the screw on flanges that go on the braided rubber tubes the vendors sell?

Trying to set up my rebuilt (Bison) PTE-51 turbo with pre-glued gasket and studs but the studs have a 1/8" dead spot between the threads after the gasket is installed so I want to make sure it can tighten.

Too cheap to use 2 gaskets. ;) :p
 
Found an old stock line with flange, it's about 1/8" thick plus the gasket, it will work. I think the aftermarket ones are even thicker.

I'll try to find a couple of star lock washers which should ensure open threads for tightening ability and are easier to install rather than split lock washers.

Best would be an 8mm nut with built in locking flange type washer.
 
Sounds like you need shorter studs.

Or just stack up a bunch of washers to make up for the unthreaded shank.
 
Anyone know the typical drain tube flange thickness on the screw on flanges that go on the braided rubber tubes the vendors sell?

Trying to set up my rebuilt (Bison) PTE-51 turbo with pre-glued gasket and studs but the studs have a 1/8" dead spot between the threads after the gasket is installed so I want to make sure it can tighten.

Too cheap to use 2 gaskets. ;) :p

The aluminum turbo flange that came with the drain tube kit from TR Customs is a strong 5/16" and with the gasket is right at 3/8".
It sounds like you're good.
 
this? P1030349.JPG

I made my own hose assembly. flange did come from Mark. flange thickness I have is 0.354" and with the gasket is 0.422"...maybe I'm confusing the matter because my stuff did not come from a buick vendor.
 

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I thought the aftermarkets were thicker than stock, :cool: it should work out fine or I just use some type of washers that I will drop 10 times before getting the nuts on the studs properly. :rolleyes:

Mine is an older one not sure where I got it in 2003, thought they were steel or cast not billet aluminum we shall see....
:angelic:
I'll measure it when I remove the turbo, a topic with some numbers always helps someone sooner or later.

Earl the studs are short enough actually perfect I think, they just left a bit too much unthreaded for me to be 100% confident, one washer of any type will do it or two of those thick gaskets. I think they're from the HELP section off the shelf.

Found some cool serrated flange nuts at McMaster Carr in stainless, maybe next time....
 
Glad you're familiar with Mcmaster...with the Mom and Pop hardware stores disappearing these last 20 years as the orange box store and blue box store take over, it can be tough to find stuff in you don't know where to look. those mom and pop stores had a plethora of hardware inventory AND they were very knowledgeable to guide you with alternate suggestions. forget driving from one box store to another trying to find something.

mcmaster is my 1st stop. In NJ, I'll have that order the next day - no wasted time in a box store and a tremendously greater offering of parts. Others may have a similar supply house near them. it's great no being limited to what some store decides what should be on the shelf and the customer is supposed to adapt it to make it work while the item you need is available but the store just does not stock it.
 
Serrated flange nuts are great as long as you're not going to be pulling them on and off. They will tear hell out of the workpiece if you let them.

I used those nuts in a fine thread for my overpriced sway bar bolt it. They, along with the other stuff, are the only thing I found that will stay tight with my ATR rear bar.
 
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