engine pops when meth system comes on

[stevek]

yes i know, the only thing i changed was to put a tt349 pump in and take out the 1 inch spacer i had in and replace it with an RJC powerr plate th n that afr reading stopped going to 450 and stops at 284, ill check maf and translater and powerlogger is set for 512 maf,

 

[stevek]

Your MAF doesnt go up yet the boost does. And your air fuel goes up(lean) as the boost goes up.

Maybe its a bad MAF or translator issue. I'm also kind of skeptical on the knock sensor on your motor and its readings. Typically with your timing and AFR it should be showing way more knock than it is. Typically...

I've seen translators mounted in the engine compartment get water into them. As I have seen MAF's go bad. Point is boost went up 5 psi and your MAF didnt.

ill check the maf and translater connections and settings on powerlogger but the only thing i changed was to put in the tt340 pump and remove 1 inch spacer and put in rjc power plate, then the maf stopped going any further past 248, the knock sensor is stock i will probably replace to make sure working good. thanks ill see what happens

 

[tonka]

After you have this problem sorted out, you need to seriously look at your fuel system/injectors. If the car needs 85% DC at 16-17 lbs, you don't have enough fuel available to safely run mid 20s boost pressures.

 

[stevek]

After you have this problem sorted out, you need to seriously look at your fuel system/injectors. If the car needs 85% DC at 16-17 lbs, you don't have enough fuel available to safely run mid 20s boost pressures.

when i get this figured out i was going to get 60 # inj and chip to go with then try and figure on what to do with smc meth system, may replace it

 

[stevek]

Your MAF doesnt go up yet the boost does. And your air fuel goes up(lean) as the boost goes up.

Maybe its a bad MAF or translator issue. I'm also kind of skeptical on the knock sensor on your motor and its readings. Typically with your timing and AFR it should be showing way more knock than it is. Typically...

I've seen translators mounted in the engine compartment get water into them. As I have seen MAF's go bad. Point is boost went up 5 psi and your MAF didnt.

is there any way to check maf or translater or should i just get each one and replace one at atime

 

[Razor]

is there any way to check maf or translater or should i just get each one and replace one at atime

Open the translator box and look for corrossion would be an easy to do. If you see some white chalky stuff.. you have your answer.
Else go and replace the MAF is probably the easiest to get a spare. Junkyards are great sources for these.

Or find someone locally with a Buick you can borrow from.

 

[Razor]

After you have this problem sorted out, you need to seriously look at your fuel system/injectors. If the car needs 85% DC at 16-17 lbs, you don't have enough fuel available to safely run mid 20s boost pressures.

You have to understand the extender chip commands the DC based on MAF readings. Its an extender. The regular Buick chip only hits 255 and stops.

Point on his was boost kept climbing yet MAF did not. MAF doesnt go up in grams.. inj DC wont go up either.

 

[stevek]

You have to understand the extender chip commands the DC based on MAF readings. Its an extender. The regular Buick chip only hits 255 and stops.

Point on his was boost kept climbing yet MAF did not. MAF doesnt go up in grams.. inj DC wont go up either.

I opened translater box all looks good,will get another maf lt1 3 inch and see what happens , I have another question , when i had the inline fuel pump hooked up befor with the intank pump, my inj dc was reading around 135% with 25 # boost and maf was around 400 and no knock could this be right.

 

[tonka]

I opened translater box all looks good,will get another maf lt1 3 inch and see what happens , I have another question , when i had the inline fuel pump hooked up befor with the intank pump, my inj dc was reading around 135% with 25 # boost and maf was around 400 and no knock could this be right.

This is what I was referring to, he doesn't have the fuel system to support what he is trying to do, even if the MAF/Translator/extender was operating correctly......

 

[Razor]

I opened translater box all looks good,will get another maf lt1 3 inch and see what happens , I have another question , when i had the inline fuel pump hooked up befor with the intank pump, my inj dc was reading around 135% with 25 # boost and maf was around 400 and no knock could this be right.

The no knock is what cant be right. The Injector DC can be.. as well as the MAF reading. Not the no knock unless it was for a very brief moment not sustained.

If you flood an engine, it may do 25 psi and no knock. Just not for very long. If you tried a 1/4 mile pass.. it would die way before the end of the track.

 

[Razor]

This is what I was referring to, he doesn't have the fuel system to support what he is trying to do, even if the MAF/Translator/extender was operating correctly......

Technically "if" he had a working alcohol injection system it would support the 25 PSI.

But thats a whole other story.

 

[stevek]

Technically "if" he had a working alcohol injection system it would support the 25 PSI.

But thats a whole other story.

Hello again, I found out that i must of turned on the limiter button inside the translater box, it should be off with an extender chip, so now the maf goes up and idc went up also, here is new reading from powerlogger today.I do have the translater wot set at #5 which is 10% richer at wot , ill have to set back to 0 and run it next day for a base reading, see what you think and let me know, thanks.

fuel pres-43#
1 st gear boost 19# ,afr-9.75 @5460 rpm
idc- 125%, maf-400, o2 -820

2nd gear boost 21# ,afr-10.35 @5345 rpm
idc-125% , maf-425, o2-.788

3rd gear boost 21#, afr- 10.30 @ 5000 rpm
idc-125%, maf-425, o2-.765
no knock and 19.1 deg, i still am going to get new knock sensor soon,

 

[Razor]

Hello again, I found out that i must of turned on the limiter button inside the translater box, it should be off with an extender chip, so now the maf goes up and idc went up also, here is new reading from powerlogger today.I do have the translater wot set at #5 which is 10% richer at wot , ill have to set back to 0 and run it next day for a base reading, see what you think and let me know, thanks.

fuel pres-43#
1 st gear boost 19# ,afr-9.75 @5460 rpm
idc- 125%, maf-400, o2 -820

2nd gear boost 21# ,afr-10.35 @5345 rpm
idc-125% , maf-425, o2-.788

3rd gear boost 21#, afr- 10.30 @ 5000 rpm
idc-125%, maf-425, o2-.765
no knock and 19.1 deg, i still am going to get new knock sensor soon,

Why not simply unplug that knock sensor and stop worrying about it. 21 PSI and 19 degree's timing. Crank that sucker up.. its already out of injector..

That way you can buy the new knock sensor when you rebuild the engine. Sounds logical

 

[slick6732]

Definitely sounds like a knock sensor is needed or keep running it like you are and buy a new one during rebuild as razor said!! There is knock as hard as your running it, guaranteed

 

[stevek]

Why not simply unplug that knock sensor and stop worrying about it. 21 PSI and 19 degree's timing. Crank that sucker up.. its already out of injector..

That way you can buy the new knock sensor when you rebuild the engine. Sounds logical

just put on new knock sensor and took for quick ride, only showed .5 knock when shifted into 2nd,I have a set of 60 lb inj and chip coming from TT, hopefully get inj % down.
I also another question it looks like my fuel pressure seems to be dropping after i take car out for a quick spins, with hose attached reads 40# at idle, then after a few runs on road it goes to around 35# with hose on at idle,I have hood mounted vdo guage,new tt340 pump put in last month,I noticed last month that i had a tremendous amount of pressure and heat in fuel tank when i cracked open fuel cap. I unplugged the vent line to charcoal canister and seem to be lot less just wondering if pump overheated and is weak now thats why pressure drops down, any ideas thanks

 

[87buickracer]

I run two smc progressive kits and had the same problem with one causing the engine to pop when the alky kit came on.I found out that if you hook it to fuse box it will interfer with maf/translator signal.I also run red's volt booster,which could have been a issue too but I didn't spend anytime testing.If you hook it directly to battery or run it off of altenator with in line fuse protector you should be fine..Alky comes on smooth now with no engine pop...

 

[stevek]

I run two smc progressive kits and had the same problem with one causing the engine to pop when the alky kit came on.I found out that if you hook it to fuse box it will interfer with maf/translator signal.I also run red's volt booster,which could have been a issue too but I didn't spend anytime testing.If you hook it directly to battery or run it off of altenator with in line fuse protector you should be fine..Alky comes on smooth now with no engine pop...

Thanks for the help but it looks like the tt chip and 60# inj seem to be working fine with the system now , but if i have any more problems ill try that tha ks

 

[cork]

I run two smc progressive kits and had the same problem with one causing the engine to pop when the alky kit came on.I found out that if you hook it to fuse box it will interfer with maf/translator signal.I also run red's volt booster,which could have been a issue too but I didn't spend anytime testing.If you hook it directly to battery or run it off of altenator with in line fuse protector you should be fine..Alky comes on smooth now with no engine pop...

I also had the same problem with my SMC , popped like mad when the alky turned on. It was interference between the MAF translator and the alky pump. Razor sells a hotwire kit that eliminated the problem.