Engine Rebuid. Have some ? for you Guys

DOC420

New Member
Joined
Jul 16, 2007
I am a newbie on this forum but have been tinkering around with my 87 GN for about 6 years now. I have been a technician at a private shop in cincinnati for about 5 years now. I know a lot about service but not so much about the performance field. About a month ago One of my buddies and I were out laying some patches and i lost the #1 rod bearing. :mad: Pulled the motor and trans and tour it down to the bare block. Every bearing in this thing was wiped out. None of the main bearings spun just the #1 rod bearing. It is basically welded to the crank. I gave up trying to get it off. I have recently purchased a new rotating assembly from Full throttle. CAT crank. Girdle, K1 rods, diamond pistons .030 over, diamond rings, and king bearings. Am i on the right track? Have you heard any good or bad things about these assemblies? I would also like some help with the heads. Plan to stay with stockers but would like to rebuild. I would like the car to reach mid to low 11's. Any suggestions for springs, valves etc... Thanks alot guys. I am a little long winded but i love this car. Thanks again.:cool:
 
As with ALLaftermarket engine parts, take your time and check EVERYTHING twice before you do a final assembly. If you are using a stroker kit, insall the crank in te block and check for clearance. Then install the rod and piston (with-out rings) in the correct bore and rotate the engine. Check for .160" clearance on everything. Then install the camshaft and timing chain and rotate engine looking closely at the rod to cam lobe clearance. after you have verified that there is adaquate clearance on EVERYTHING, you can disassemble, final clean and assemble. The BHJ balancers have a problem with the timing marks being anywhere from 2* to 20* off. (If you are using a BHJ balbncer) The flex plate will also ride the radius on some aftermarket cranks.
If you have access to a good die grinder and have good carbide burrs, you can pocket port the heads and even use the stock valves and be able to run tens. Just copy these heads.
 

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Hey KEN thanks for the pics and info. You said check for .160 clearance with pistons installed and no rings. Is this piston to cylinder clearance? I have plenty of carbide bits and definately think i can copy. I appreciate it greatly. Bad news came from the machine shop. Machinist said the block is junk. Said the cam ate into the front of the block and scored it. Looked at my cam when i got home from work and saw that one of the bolts had a little score on it but not much. Would these really have an effect. Oil Starvation? Should i try another machine shop? I would like to know. Thanks again.



DOC
 
Grew up in sharonville. Went to Moeller H.S. Just got married in june and bought house out here in maineville. You????
 
Hey KEN thanks for the pics and info. You said check for .160 clearance with pistons installed and no rings. Is this piston to cylinder clearance? I have plenty of carbide bits and definately think i can copy. I appreciate it greatly. Bad news came from the machine shop. Machinist said the block is junk. Said the cam ate into the front of the block and scored it. Looked at my cam when i got home from work and saw that one of the bolts had a little score on it but not much. Would these really have an effect. Oil Starvation? Should i try another machine shop? I would like to know. Thanks again.



DOC

.160 piston to cylinder clearance :eek: NOT. Depending on the type of piston/manufacturer, the clearance is usually in the .0055 area.

He means when you do a stroker motor, the rods will hit the bottom of the cylinder bores. You have to notch/clearance the bottom of the cylinders so the back side of the rod doesn't hit.

You will also have to clearance the oil pick block casting. Most times you will break through and have to install a sleeve inside. If you are going this far, ditch the stock oil pickup and run an external oil pickup like a Duttweiler or DLS style.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com
 
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