firing/ cylinder order????

The dark blue wire is all crimped together under the metal clips that attach to the coil prongs, So its the same wire. Try switching it but I doubt it will make a difference..If it were three seperate wires I would say yes. Did you try the computer test yet? I think that might be your problem especially if it still does what it did before. Blinking then staying on with the aldl jumped out.

Let me know.

Bill
 
ok, so i put the stock coil backk on, and it still wont start, i got code 12 which is obviousle supposed to be there when it isnt running. when cranking, you can hear it almoast start if that makes any sense. im going to grab a spark tester from the snap on rep from work tomorrow so i will know how my spark condition is.
 
If it sounds like its tring to start you may be getting spark... Check the valve at the fuel rail...If the car has been sitting a long time you might not be getting gas pressure or the gas might be NG.. Do you hear the fuel pump come on when you turn the key to the on position? I had the same problem with my car. The gas was bad and the pump wasnt giving enough pressure to make the gas reach the rail.. If you hear the pump press the valve on the fuel rail (right near the fuel pressure regulator) and see if gas comes out of it. If not that could be your problem. If there is no gas, Take off the air intake and spray alittle starting fluid in the throttle body, crank it and see if it kicks over. If it does then you have a fuel problem. To go further with the ignition coil, You can also take one wire off, Get a piece of stranded wire, wrap it around one post on the coil and put the other end near the chassis. DO NOT HOLD THE WIRE! prop it up somehow near the chassis, When you crank the car you will see the spark jump from the stranded wire to ground if your getting spark. You can do this on all the posts to see. If nothing still then you need to follow the no spark section in the sticky thread. It will explain how to test each componant and help you narrow the problem down. The parts arent cheap so you dont want to just throw parts in without knowing. If the problem is no spark, It could be the crank sensor, cam sensor, ignition switch (just replaced mine) igniton module, or the computer so your best bet is to test everything threw the no spark section.

Keep me posted.
Bill
 
yea I pushed the shrader valve in on the test port and fuel came out, I believe i have spark because you can hear it fire, it just misses too much to stay running, im going to check to see the condition of my spark next time it warms up a little bit. wouldnt the crank/cam sensor throw a code? when you say ignition switch, are you talking about the Locking cylinder? (where you put the key to start it)
 
No Not the cylinder but the switch, You have to drop the steerig column to get to it. Its a pain in the a$$...If its starting then I dont think thats your problem so I wouldnt worry about it. I would definitely check that you are getting spark on all 6 posts before you do anything else. If your getting spark then check your plug gap..What did you gap the plugs at? If the plugs are old take em out and get a new set gapped at .032... Also, How long has the car been sitting? If its been sitting a long time you may have bad gas...If so, I would siphon it out and put good gas in it.. I had all these problems you are having when I bought my car from a kid who let it sit for a few years. The gas was bad and I couldnt even start the car. If you want to go a easier route atleast try some gas treatment. Maybe that will help.
 
the car has been sitting for about 3 years, well not sitting, ive driven it here and there but even when i dont drive it for a while i start it, let it run shift park through 1st just to keep it from standing still. the plugs are relatively new and i did gap them at .032. the gas isnt that old either, but i did use gas treatment. my first step is going to be checking the condition of my spark, so ill post back once i do that.
 
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