frame strengthening (help)

wnarunm

New Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2004
I have a friend with a TR that has had the rear seat braces installed and welded and the front frame brace installed. It is a t-top car and it run's 6.8's in the 1/8th. We run many 1/8 mile tracks and no cage rule has ever been inforced but also, he does not want to install one for practicality reasons. It also has energy suspesion poly body bushings and a bmr rear extreme bar, metco lowers and bmr uppers.

Is there anything else we can do to keep the car from twisting? Looking under the car the frame rails leave much to be desired as far as structural integrity. Boxing would be difficult (lift off body, provisions for trans cross member) How about welding extra sheet metal from the front to rear jacking pads? or some angle iron welded to lower-outer bottom portion of frame? Anyone tried or done this?

any input appreciated. Thanks... :cool:
 
I ran into this same thing....I considered putting in an X brace from the jacking points at all 4 corners but, not sure how much it would help considering how flimsy the frame is to start with...I ended up putting in a roll cage.

Done right, they'll be out of the way...the main draw back is the cutting of the car.

You might also look into the HR Parts n stuff rear sway bar. It seems to being doing great at holding the chassis firm.
 
There are the under hood fender braces.

The 'V' braces from the front cross member to the frame ends

The frame brace, across the front under ths IC scope.
 
hr parts rear sway bar made my car launch dead even no twisting at all.see sig.
 
I've seen T-top cars with all kinds of bracing underneath them, no cage in the car. Can you say street racer? :D
 
I`ve been doing alot of research on this myself since I am concerned about the twisting of my car also. Unless you are running a 8 sec. car, from what I`ve seen HR parts and stuff rear anti-roll sway bar is the way to go. Lots of positive feedback on this and it makes your suspension work right. At the roof line of our cars, the factory filled the seams will lead. Unlikely to flex, likely to crack. It makes things look ugly. And worse yet on a t-top car. I`ve done numerous paint jobs on turbo regals and found almost every one to have a minor crack around the top of the side glass and around the drip edge of the door opening. Only solution to this problem is to keep the car level at a launch. Whether it is a full roll bar or rear anti-roll bar. On a mid 10 sec. car, only other alternative I see to a full roll bar is the rear anti`roll sway bar. Just my opinion.....
 
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