Rick,
If you've been around these cars long enough.. you know stuff happens to 20+ year old parts. Doesnt matter if it was 1K or 15K... its an old car with a bunch of old parts. Not cool to jump the gun and get someone fired up over spending a bunch of money at a shop.
Would be different if he spent 7k and driving car home breaks the crank, or spins some bearings, or.. and windows the block.. but a "No Start" is regular BS with a 20+ year old car. Bad MAF, Bad Ignition module, bad crank sensor, bad ecm, bad chip, bad cam sensor, blown fuses, etc.. stuff that doesnt get touched when a motor is pulled and will cuase no start.
Glad the problem was resolved and car is back together again.
I completely agree, Its just ironic how things all of a sudden started to go bad after the final rebuild. My oil pressure read really low and that's AFTER I have already replaced the oil pressure sender with a new ACDelco one from local auto parts 2 weeks prior to that, at THAT time it had a great pressure. Another words, after accidently breaking the oil pressure sender (while taking out dead on stock oil filter) I have replaced it with the 'plastic' ACDelco version o.p.s and it had a great oil pressure on the stock cluster gauge like it always had. Its only after the second time when the car went back to the shop (with discovered cylinder crack) and was completely rebuild (with a new block) the oil at the cluster gauge started to read low. I went ahead and bought ANOTHER o.p.s. to see if it'll solve the problem but it didn't. So i'll just run the mechanical gauge from the block to the window pillar.
The boost gauge was way too sensitive and would go up to MAX lb (into red line) on the cluster, without even boosting, at the slight acceleration. It has not done it before the rebuild neither. However, I hope that problem is resolved after I discovered (while checking for any split wires/loose vacuum hoses, when the car wouldn't start already) the vacuum hose to the turbo was fitting loose (for some reason) so I strapped it down. Don't know yet if it fixed that problem, until I get the car back.
And voltage gauge is reading low as well, yet alternator showed around 13. The cause of this might be because my head lamps are out of the car and the connectors are unplugged.
Then on top of all that, it wouldn't start...I am not even going to mention that its smoking like a chimney from the exhaust (not the motor) seems like, when I blew the motor, oil end up traveling through the exhaust all the way to the back and now it has to burn off. What I dont understand is, why didnt it burn this oil off the first time the car was put together and ran for few days (thats even before the cracked cylinder was discovered) ? exhaust got hot enough the same...so I dont know, I'll deal with that later, must do one thing at the time.
But like you said "its regular BS, and because of the car's age, things WILL go out sooner or later" In my case,
few things end up showing trouble at the same time, weirdly after the motor rebuilt.
I don't blame the mechanic that did the work for any of this happening ( in fact, I appreciate all the hard work he put up with, and his patience with this car of mine), but if anyone was in my shoes and knew the condition of their car before it was taken to the shop and upon return things that worked all of a sudden DONT (and I mean things that normally go bad with
time) you'd feel the frustration that I'm going through. Especially after bad experiences I've had from the day my car stopped running right (which was about 2 yrs ago).. Knowing THEN, that i would spend that much $ to get it back running where it is now, it wouldnt have happened and I would have taken a different route, but it is what it is. So I don't blame anyone but myself, in all of this including the choices I've made. I just have a ****** luck with this ride.