Front sway bar mount holes stripped out

Toby_Goodmk

Test Fit officianto
Joined
Dec 9, 2011
I had a couple holes that hold the front sway bar bushing strip out on my last night. I compensated my oversizing the hole and going with a larger bolt, but not happy with the size of the bolt head I had to use. It will not allow me to tighten all the way, hence the reason for the smaller (10MM) head size on the factory bolt. Anyone ever had this issue and what was your fix?
 
How about weld, grind, drill and tap?
 
thinking about that, I am not good laying on my back with welding though. I have a buddy with a lift and he is pretty good at multi angle welding. May ask him for help
 
I had a couple holes that hold the front sway bar bushing strip out on my last night. I compensated my oversizing the hole and going with a larger bolt, but not happy with the size of the bolt head I had to use. It will not allow me to tighten all the way, hence the reason for the smaller (10MM) head size on the factory bolt. Anyone ever had this issue and what was your fix?
Socked Headed Cap Screws
 
........... Anyone ever had this issue and what was your fix?

Not a solution to your "hole" issue, but I usually remove the front sway bar for track GN's as well as "street warrior" GN's!

Installing the HR anti-roll bar the car will handle fine w/o the front sway bar, and really helps plant the tires on a hard launch!

Paul is a great guy, and his products are excellent, so he deserves a good compliment!
 
Not a solution to your "hole" issue, but I usually remove the front sway bar for track GN's as well as "street warrior" GN's!

Installing the HR anti-roll bar the car will handle fine w/o the front sway bar, and really helps plant the tires on a hard launch!

Paul is a great guy, and his products are excellent, so he deserves a good compliment!


I have one of those on the GN as well. The sway bar has always been there so why remove if its not hurting anything.
 
I had a couple holes that hold the front sway bar bushing strip out on my last night. I compensated my oversizing the hole and going with a larger bolt, but not happy with the size of the bolt head I had to use. It will not allow me to tighten all the way, hence the reason for the smaller (10MM) head size on the factory bolt. Anyone ever had this issue and what was your fix?
I kept having this issue and finally tack welded them, problem solved, problem staying solved!
 
its not that difficult to get a nut with a lock washer into the frame and reuse the original bolt and zip it up , threads should be m10 x1.5

or drill them all larger and use a nutsert
https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/0125658

simplest solution when running the HR rear bar is just leave the front bar off and shed about 25 pounds
 
Last edited:
I had two 1/4" steel plates welded over the original holes, then just drilled and tapped them. Nothing will ever strip them out!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
its not that difficult to get a nut with a lock washer into the frame and reuse the original bolt and zip it up , threads should be m10 x1.5

or drill them all larger and use a nutsert
https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/0125658

simplest solution when running the HR rear bar is just leave the front bar off and shed about 25 pounds

running hollow sway, and not that concerned with weight. But yes, will be doing the nutsert
 
I had this exact same problem. You need some metric rivnuts and a rivnut tool. Make sure you get quality serrated rivnuts that 'bite' into the surrounding metal.
 
its not that difficult to get a nut with a lock washer into the frame and reuse the original bolt and zip it up , threads should be m10 x1.5

or drill them all larger and use a nutsert
https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/0125658

simplest solution when running the HR rear bar is just leave the front bar off and shed about 25 pounds
Paul, I find that your solution with the nut with lockwasher inside the frame the easiest and simplest.(y)
As for the H&R sway bar, I have one on my car and yes does allow you to remove the front bar altogether but... you can say goodbye to the fun, crooked wheels up launches…(n). No more "fun" factor, the car now launches like a brick. :(

Claude.
 
0125657 Rivnut part number from fastenal, $6.24 for 1/2 dozen of them. Going to do all 4 then have a couple extra for shits and giggles.
 
Toby why did this happen in the first place? Are you running the F body hollow frt bar?
 
Toby why did this happen in the first place? Are you running the F body hollow frt bar?

yup, and I had a "boxed wrong" set of bushings that I attempted to install last year and the tight fitment made the threads pull.
 
Same thing happened to me this year also. I just tapped larger bolts. If it happens again, I'm ripping it off since I have the HR rear bar
 
Thanks, I've read this happening to a lot of guys. I'm trying to lighten up the front of my car but want to retain the front bar. I have read that the Hotchkis hollow one (35mm) will bolt right in without issue
 
I had a couple holes that hold the front sway bar bushing strip out on my last night. I compensated my oversizing the hole and going with a larger bolt, but not happy with the size of the bolt head I had to use. It will not allow me to tighten all the way, hence the reason for the smaller (10MM) head size on the factory bolt. Anyone ever had this issue and what was your fix?
I had this issue and my engine builder welded a nut on the inside of the frame. There may be more to than that, but I like the solution as it is a permanent fix and I'm able to install and uninstall my swaybar as needed and I won't ever have to worry about stripping it again, unless I cross thread or over tighten.
 
Thanks, I've read this happening to a lot of guys. I'm trying to lighten up the front of my car but want to retain the front bar. I have read that the Hotchkis hollow one (35mm) will bolt right in without issue

I use the hollow F body bar no issues, as long as I get the correct bushings. Live and learn.
 
Top