Front Upper Control Arms

[Boost231]

So i spent last night doing some research on front upper and lowers as well as aftermarket brakes. I was wondering what everyone opinion is on upper control arms. I read using the longer ball joint helps with geometry issues. I like the price of gbodyparts uppers but the only down side i see is the need to use washers to get the alignment correct since you can't adjust the length of the arms. I like the clean look of no shims but is it really worth the extra $$$ to have a adjustable upper A arm, that's something i will have to decide. So what adjustable arms are available, Sc&C and SPC? Thats the only two options correct? Also i heard SPC are Crap and subject to bending is this true? That would only leave the SC&C stuff. Then i heard you need to use a lot of anti-seize on the threads of the SC&C stuff and people still have issues with the adjusters freezing. So that leaves me going back to none adjustable ones and dealing with the shims.

Ok, So lower Control arms, heard no difference in performance or anything from getting them. However i would like to replace them. Was thinking the G-bodyparts unit is nice and weights less then stock so that would work. Is there any downside to them? any other unit thats better?

Thanks for the help. Looks like i might just get the gbody upper and lower combo with the longer ball joints and call it good?

 

[charlief1]

SC&C's parts are SPC parts Brent. Marcus markets them but doesn't make them, and regardless of what he says, has never had anything to do with the design. One other thing that most don't understand is that when you use the longer upper and lower with the tubular uppers it reduces the amount of shims needed.

 

[ttypewhite]

I too would like to hear more on this as I will be upgrading my stock stuff soon with tubulars. Also heard about the Speedway uppers as another option.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/tubular-upper-and-lower-a-arms-th.html
Any word on these?

 

[Boost231]

SC&C's parts are SPC parts Brent. Marcus markets them but doesn't make them, and regardless of what he says, has never had anything to do with the design. One other thing that most don't understand is that when you use the longer upper and lower with the tubular uppers it reduces the amount of shims needed.

so your saying get the upper with the longer ball joints and well as the lowers with the longer ball joints? didn't know there was 2 different size lower joints.

so brian is the man to talk to again

 

[Boost231]

I too would like to hear more on this as I will be upgrading my stock stuff soon with tubulars. Also heard about the Speedway uppers as another option.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/tubular-upper-and-lower-a-arms-th.html
Any word on these?

correct me if im wrong but the speedway arms are the same ones brian @ gbodyparts sales under the gbody arms

 

[ttypewhite]

correct me if im wrong but the speedway arms are the same ones brian @ gbodyparts sales under the gbody arms

No Sir. They are much different.

 

[charlief1]

so your saying get the upper with the longer ball joints and well as the lowers with the longer ball joints? didn't know there was 2 different size lower joints.

so brian is the man to talk to again

I'll send you an email (I think I've got your email don't I Brent?) later which should give some explanitions on the parts you can get. You can get a longer upper and lower for the car. The lower ball joints can be bought as .5" or 1" longer so you can adjust things the way you want.

As far as the uppers go, you can get them from Brian, speedway, day motorsports, or lefthanderchasis. Several different places carry them but Brians aren't from speedway.

 

[KevinB]

http://www.trzmotorsports.com/319.html#front

The "pro" ones are on my wish list

 

[charlief1]

This is one option for those that want an arm that will give you more caster. As you look at them you'll notice that the shafts have slots in them rather than the normal holes. Slugs go into the slots to keep them in place so your settings stay the same. You can also losen the arms up at the track, take the slugs out, and increase or decrease the caster without change. You just move the slugs one direction at the track and then put them back after you're done.

https://www.lefthanderchassis.com/v2a/viewproduct_group.asp?idgroup=2513402

 

[Pronto]

What length and ball joint would we need? I suppose you order 2 the same and flip one?

 

[ronbros999]

i have just bought an 85 GN, with suspension mods, this is what its got!

SPC adjustable upper arms.
SPC lowering springs all around.
HOWE ball joint bump str, tall kits.
1 1/4" frt antiroll, polybushes.
11/16" rear bar,polys.
4 Bilstiens.
all body mount bushes ,poly.
Lee 670 str box.

2002 SS Camaro discs all around, carbon pads, Wilwood hydroboost.

6.0L LS DBW, 4L80E, 3.73 gear. aluminum rad. elec.fan.

18" alloy wheels, 9frt, 10rear, Nitto 245frt,, 275rear. spaced out track.

Question; is this car on the setup, like is it KOOL??

course it drives like no other G-body i have ever been in.






car runs and drives great,

 

[charlief1]

What length and ball joint would we need? I suppose you order 2 the same and flip one?

Just don't go over a total of 1" difference on the ball joints. You can go .5" top and bottom or you can go 1" longer and stock on the top. That's up to you as to how you do it.

As far as your car Ron, if you like it and it has no issues, leave it like it is.

 

[Boost231]

charlie, got your email. i will be sending you a email back.

 

[blackdeathtrap]

no this just puzzeled me i just wanted the tubular upper control arms to ad clearance for my massive down pipe im getting the g body parts ones will i need to get anything else to make em work

 

[charlief1]

That shold do fine if all you're trying to do is clear the down pipe.

 

[blackdeathtrap]

asome yeah i should listen wen i both it they all said will no fit on lowerd cars and if you look at my pictures my cars quite lowerd even when i removed the drop spindels my car ended up still way to lil clearance even if i ad hr motor mounts its to close for comfort

 

[f man]

what is the big diff between tubular and and stock if you can get the camber you want are you dialing in that much more caster. I am at the point were is it going too make that much difference and can i retain my 2"drop spindles and 1" spring or will that need to change .I like my cars to handle but will the benefit out way the cost

 

[charlief1]

Throw the dropped spindles away, seriously. They cause serious bump steer issues and you'd have to run at least an 18" wheel to be able to use the bump steer correction kit.

As far as the tubular arms VS the stock ones, the stock ones bend right behind the ball joint and the tubular ones don't.

 

[f man]

I thought that was th point of drop spindles that the steering pickup points stay in the same place and the spindle is moved 2 inches higher for rotor attachment. I knew that us ring B body spindles cause bump steer concerns. And couldnt you rectify the bending control arm by boxing it.

 

[GNICETRY]

http://www.trzmotorsports.com/319.html#front

The "pro" ones are on my wish list

Just to let you know, I just called, they have no front sway bar provisions and are "mostly" for drag racing. They can be driven on the street though.