Fuel issues

Chevman2448

Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2013
So I got my fuel situation all figured out.....so I thought. It gets pressure right away. I discovered that the pump is pushing fuel through the vacuum line on the FPR and dumping it through the throttle body. I have never seen that before. Anyone have any insight on why this could be happening? A few thoughts come to mind....there is a restriction in the return line, the main line and the return lines are backwards. I have always hooked up my fuel lines this way (the main line is on the passenger side rail and the return goes through the FPR) when a regulator was involved. Bad FPR (brand new Kirbans piece).

Any insight on this??
 
Must have a hole on the diaphram to leak fuel out the vac hose.i wouldnt expect a restricted return line to cause issues reg shoul handle high pressures and if return was fully blocked ide expect fuel pump fuse to pop before the reg

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Well crap!!!! I believe I installed my new diaphragm the wrong way. With the smooth side down and the pressure from fuel put a hole in the new diaphragm. Already emailed kirbans for price in new pieces since this time it is my fault.
 
Anyone else have trouble with their Kirbans FPR? Story is I have a brand new OEM tank, -8 fuel line from the filter to the rail. DW301 fuel pump and racetronix hanger with the stock return line. The first diaphragm in the FPR was torn right out of the box. It was replaced for free, which was nice! Now I tore the second one not too long after I installed it (I do believe I installed that one incorrectly with the restriction piece facing up). I had been emailing kirbans and he seemed to believe there was something in the fuel. I admitted that I likely made a mistake when i installed the diaphragm in the email. I gave that person the info I posted above and I havent heard back from them yet. The second diaphragm was torn away from the center metal piece where the spring sits just like the first one.
Do you think my return line might be the problem? Too much back pressure on the system? Would switching the return line and the vent tube make a difference since the vent tube is a larger diameter? Maybe I should just replace the return line all together and get a -6 braided line. I took an air compressor and blew air into the line and there didnt seem to be any restriction in there. I did order another diaphragm from kirbans but I dont want to install it and have the same issue.

Any Ideas??
 
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In this picture the diaphragm is upside down, the small pivoting disk faces down to seal against the seat.

Once you get the new diaphragm, check the other side of it. Do this by placing the spring onto the diaphragm. The spring should seat on a metal disk, not the diaphragm.

RemoveBeforeFlight
 
I know its upside down. I just showed it that way to show what happened with the diaphragm. That is the way I installed it (the second one) and is my error. The original was torn right out of the box. I have a new one on the way. I just want to make sure that that was the issue and that there isnt an issue with my return line.
 
I don't think that a return line issue would cause the diaphragm to tear. More like high fuel pressure that can't be lowered due to a restricted return line.

You asked about swapping the return and vent lines, can't do that. At the sender unit the vent line has a restriction in it, plus a roll-over valve. Although, if you swap the hoses at the tank between the vent and return line, that will provide a larger return line up until it reaches the tank.

As for the torn diaphragm, make sure that the spring rests on metal, not the diaphragm.

RemoveBeforeFlight
 
That is what I figured. I have a -6 return line priced out but if its good to go then thats great. I know I did have the diaphragm in the wrong way. It did work for a little while though and held good pressure. Then I tried starting the car and something gave way and fuel started shooting out of the vacuum line on the FPR. Maybe the rep saw that I had ordered one so thats why I havent gotten a reply. No biggie to be honest.
 
If it held steady pressure at the pressure you told it too it's not the returns fault


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It held steady pressure for quite a while and slowly bled down after I shut the car off. The rep I was emailing at Kirbans stated the diaphragms never go bad. Of course over a period of time they go bad as they get weaker so I figured what they meant was in such a short time. Hopefully I get it by this weekend so I can start the car.
 
Alright...Now Im fucking pissed! So I checked the return and vent lines for blockage. I disconnected it and the return line from the tank. I pressurized the return line and it flows right through. Get to the vent line and its partially blocked. So I shoot compressed air through it and a couple minutes later I hear a pop and the line is clear. Great! Right? I figure I can put the new diaphragm in and it should be good to go. FUCK NO! Both of those other diaphragms BOTH get holes in them. Im sick and tired of emailing the manufacturer on this and Im sure the salesman isnt happy either. These things are $20 each. I dont want to go buy an accufab for it to do the same damn thing!!

Both times the pressure spiked above 60 psi regardless of how far the pressure control screw was turned in.
 
The Accufab doesn't use a diaphragm. it uses a spring loaded steel ball that seats (poorly) into a beveled aluminum seat. That was the 'go to' FPR' for quite a while it seems, but thinks to the powerlogger they've pretty much got an established record of having very choppy fuel pressures and rapid bleed down, where the Kirbin unit is much smoother. (there's a chance I think worse of them than they really are as I've never presonaly ran one. I've just taken them apart trying to figure out why the choppy ness and rapid bleed down) I've seen it repeated often, but it might be that I only hear about the one's that won't act right, even brand new. (plus you have to have a powerlogger and a transducer to track it. Most people don't have a data logging capability.



Now on to your specifics... if you're return line is restricted, that will cause higher pressure than you want. To have a spike that's greater than 60 doesn't tell me much because I don't know what your boost level it. 60 is normal if you have a 45psi base and 15psi of boost.


You've verified the vent and return aren't clogged. Have you investigated the signal line yet? Years ago I helped a guy figure out a very odd problem similar to yours (he just wasn't blowing diaphragms). Turns out there was a rust flake in the line acting as a check valve. When he'd shut off, the pressure would hang out in WOT pressure range, blow black smoke and go pig rich.
Once he serviced the signal line and make it transmit accurate manifold signal, all was fine.
 
Thanks for the reply. I looked at it a bit more and the pressure spikes were actually in the 80 or higher range. It was hard to get a good read on the pressure gauge from the angle I was looking at it. I didnt check the main line because I replaced most of it with -8 hose from the fuel filter to the rail. I have no clue where the boost levels are at yet. Im burning up diaphragms just trying to start the car. Priming the system pressure stays in the 40-50 range then when I try to start it is when pressure spikes. I believe it to be a fuel pressure issue of some sort. Im working on a -6 return line that is becoming a PITA.
 
Im burning up diaphragms just trying to start the car.

Disassemble the FPR and place the spring on the diaphragm and take a picture and post it. What I am looking for/at, is where and how the spring sits on the diaphragm.

RemoveBeforeFlight
 
Have you got a stock FPR you can stick on there to get it started and troubleshoot the rest of the fuel system?

If you want to eliminate the return as a factor, rig up a dump line right off the bottom of the regulator and run it into a gas gan (or clamp it to a garden hose and pipe it back to the tank filler neck.
 
"Priming the system pressure stays in the 40-50 range then when I try to start it is when pressure spikes".
Could be that the short prime cycle doesn't allow the fp to get all the way up.
Instead of doing the key prime, use the pump jump at the alt. That will allow the pump to continue to run, even w/ engine off.
 
The kirbans unit is the only regulator I have. The salesman at Kirbans told me the diaphragms have a burst pressure of 100 psi. That means pressure is going over that. Lucky me. At least I know I wont burn up the engine because the pump cant keep up. :p
 
"Priming the system pressure stays in the 40-50 range then when I try to start it is when pressure spikes".
Could be that the short prime cycle doesn't allow the fp to get all the way up.
Instead of doing the key prime, use the pump jump at the alt. That will allow the pump to continue to run, even w/ engine off.
I put a hotwire kit on the car its already connected at the alternator.
 
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