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SignUp Now!Yes you have to be a fabricator, with plenty of patientsHave you looked in tank at the sender? I melted two bulkhead connectors and it left me stranded 50 miles from home. Had to scrounge around town for a new bulkhead connector. Built my own new harness.
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Applied 12volts to black lead behind the alternator dead short. Will be looking around duel tank area tomorrow for startersHave you looked in tank at the sender? I melted two bulkhead connectors and it left me stranded 50 miles from home. Had to scrounge around town for a new bulkhead connector. Built my own new harness.
Fuel sorryApplied 12volts to black lead behind the alternator dead short. Will be looking around duel tank area tomorrow for starters
X2^^ Get Eric’s 5.7 chip, and a set of 60# injectors and an adjustable fur pressure regulator. And a scanmaster if you don’t already.If you have Erics chip, then you have to set the fuel pressure via an AFPR. If you haven't got a TT chip from Eric, then I highly suggest you do. He has chip/injector combos on his site.
Appreciate the tip on Eric’s chip could you give me the site please.
Thanks if I can get it to run
What's the code?Are fuses are good and I do have service engine light.
Don’t have a scan tool. Don’t know if I have one. Someone had mentioned if light is off stop there.What's the code?
Exactly.How do you read codes jump terminal and count flashes?
Thanks someone mentioned crank sensor. I had a Jeep that would start and run fine the thing is you never knew when it would stop. When it did it would crank but wouldn’t start until hours later. It would shut off the fuel and spark. Problem bad crank sensorExactly.
Or buy a cheap code reader.
Thanks I will check this out and get back to you. I really appreciate your inputPin A only gets power for a couple of seconds to prime the fuel rail after Key ON, until the car is making over 4psi. of oil pressure or actually running then it's continuous.
Takes abut 12 seconds to reset the ECM after key ON priming to get another reading.
Put a volt meter with a long lead to the relay so it's inside the car when the key is in the ON position to see if you get voltage for a couple of seconds, or put a gauge on the fuel rail tap to see if pressure builds after key ON test.
If you have a helper have them do a Key ON test in the car a few of seconds while you watch the meter if it's located at the relay location. Sometimes you can hear the pump run when key is put to the ON position not cranking.
The ECM/IGN fuse powers the relay through the ECM.