Fuel Pump

Chevman2448

Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2013
I wasnt sure where to post this so if this is the wrong place let me know. I did do a search but found little result.

As the title says Im looking for a fuel pump. I dont have an OEM tank and plan on replacing the stock fuel lines. What came with the car was a fuel cell. So at least I have that. So what I am looking for what would be a good external fuel pump. According to the last owner the car made 500 hp (not sure if I believe it but it does have a F.A.S.T. computer and an aftermarket turbo and headers). The other option I was considering was just getting a new aftermarket tank that fits in the stock location with a Aeromotive 340 pump.

Any suggestions? thanks!!!
 
Aeromotive A1000. Had it in mine with a cell.

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I've used both Aeromotive and Weldon. (not together of course) Both are good pumps. I went to E85 so I switched to Weldon.
 
I would do MUCH MUCH MUCH research. If you've got fuel cells and F.A.S.T and all that race only/ go-fast parts with only 500hp, somethings up.


When a car deviates that much from stock, it tends to only make sense to the guy that built it. (And with only 500hp, that may or may not be true, it sounds like the parts never worked well together. Might be time to see if you need to 'go backwards' to make the car more friendly and just as fast if not faster.
 
They actually told me 550hp but I was trying to be a realist about it. They upgraded the CPU, but they never did anything with the fuel system. So when the one cheapo pump burned up they stopped messing with it. It was tuned at a well known shop to the area, so they say anyways. I somewhat trust that story because everything is marked for the wiring and where it goes. Most people dont mark anything. There are also plugs in the headers for when it was on the dyno for measuring EGT's. I never trust anything like that unless it is first hand knowledge but I dont want to lose all hope for it.
 
I would suggest, you take all three's advice. purchase the A-1000 if maintaining the cell, good to 1000 hp. Once running, do the overall inspection to track down any error in the combo or potential problem.
Might even get in touch w/the local tr owners that can go over the car w/you.I'm fairly sure one of the vendors was handling new aftermarket fuel tanks.
 
They actually told me 550hp but I was trying to be a realist about it.


With these cars, 500 and 550 really isn't all that much to brag about. They really don't require many hard parts to get to that level. Much less a catalog of parts.

Sorry I can't give out a bunch of specific advice, but like I said earlier, but it sounds like someone bolted a shitloads of 'cool guy race parts' on a street car and didn't make any more power.


Being a newb to these cars, I'd recommend going back as close to a tweaked/upgraded stock type setup and ending up with a good running car that's faster, gets good gas mileage, and doesn't eat parts...... oh, and can actual be enjoyed while driving.

Might help to post a bunch of pictures of what you have too.
 
what do you mean never did anything w fuel system? that seems like a scary thought w all that money into car. just curious maybe a conservative tune or worse hurt something? i just think at that level things are done right. fast is 1500-2k alone.
 
Basically they did a bunch of stuff to it but left the fuel system alone except for the injectors. Those were changed. I realize it doesnt help much because I dont even know what they are. But it was tuned by a shop so it had to be running somewhat decent. I have pictures somewhere of it in its current form. Normally I would pass up a project like this but the body is in great shape (needs paint) and the interior is MINT. As in the only thing that was broken is the shift handle. That is because the shift cable wasnt installed with the clips that hold it in the mount bracket and some one (not me) was trying really hard to get it into park.

Im on various forums (for other vehicles) and I know the owners that had it before me I dont think they were being dishonest with me about it. He posted a picture of one of the forged pistons ( I recognized the speed pro symbol on it) that was in it before they went through the engine and it didnt look good).
 
I have a FAST XFI system in my car. They are very good. However, they aren't cheap and you must find a shop that knows what they are doing when tuning and making changes to the motor. Fuel system is very important and it surprises me (at least a little) that a shop would sell and install an engine management system and not address the fuel system; injectors, fuel lines, regulator, pump, gas tank, sump.... Most people that want/use the FAST system or other engine management systems plan to make pretty serious power. I would buy a good set of injectors, at least 60lb. fuel line, gas tank with sump and a good external pump, Aeromotive or Weldon and find a reputable shop that knows what they are doing with tuning these types of systems. Where are you located?
 
From what I read the car has 57# injectors in it. Im not looking to make it a race car, I just would like to drive it and maybe once in a while make a trip down the strip. I am in WI.
 
It would help if put down all the mods you know was done to the car. From that better advise could be given. Take some pics of the engine too. You better start reading up on XFI too.
 
From what I read the car has 57# injectors in it. Im not looking to make it a race car, I just would like to drive it and maybe once in a while make a trip down the strip. I am in WI.
In the software for XFI under fuel calculation parameters, the injector size is shown. That doesn't nessasarily mean that's your exact injectors but it will tell you what the XFI is set to.
Earl is right, you may be better off with the stock ecm and TT chip.
 
Tough advice is always tough to follow. I knew when I bought it I was likely going to need to pull it all apart. Whenever spring hits im going to get it in the garage and look closer at it. Ill decide at that point if Im going to pull the engine or not just to check it out. Ill have to hit the forums and look for stock exhaust that will work better than the headers. From the info ive been given the car did have turbo lag. I knew the project was going to be a headache but that is part of the reason for doing it, to learn. Chances are if the pistons arent forged Ill pull it all apart and redo everything. At least I got the car cheap enough that it doesnt hurt that bad. Its just too bad that the last owner stripped a bunch of parts off of it before the sale.
 
Oh hell. So you can't even drive it. Since the pistons are a factor for you, I'd drop the pan and see if they are cast. If that's really a deal breaker for you, go ahead and pull it.

While the engine is out start going over stuff like lines, hoses, clamps, etc.... with a fine tooth comb.


Start shopping for a stock ECM and stock location intercooler, MAF Translator, etc. and use the FAST to help finance it. When the car isn't such a 'one off' you'll be able to solicit advice from the peanut gallery (and it actually be accurate).
 
From what Ive learned over the years hyper pistons are junk especially in a boosted application. Based on the link I sent you there was a picture of one of the hyper pistons all broke up in it (though it is from the last engine that was in it). If I could get it to run as is I will drive it. I just wont drive it hard.
 
That's incorrect too. Hypers aren't a tough as a set of properly set up forged units but they hold up well. There's two different way's to have a piston failure. One is to overwhelm it and lose it over time. The second is to detonate and abuse the hell out of the engine. #2 isn't the parent materials fault.
 
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