Global West Lwr Arm/Sway bar prob.

[JerseyGN]

I bought a set of Global West Lower Rear Control Arms a couple months back and today when I got ready to put them on, I noticed the sway bar bolt holes don't line up with the existing sway bar or the Hotchkis sway bar I have. Has anybody else had this problem? I'm wondering if the ones they sent were boxed wrong or something.

Thanks in advance for any help!

Dave

 

[Matt Weiser]

I think I have the same problem as you. If I know what you're saying, there is a small vertical brace welded perpendicular to the surface that the swaybar mounts to on the arm. Looks something like this:

\
|
|
-| <perpendicular brace
|
|
/

My problem is that this perpendicular brace is in exactly the wrong spot for drilling the swaybar holes (my arms did not come predrilled). I'd have to remove the brace to mount a stock swaybar. Looks like GW goofed on my arms when they did this.

Now, GW actually suggests that you don't need a rear swaybar for optimum handling on G-bodies when you use their front control arms, too (which I also have). So far, I haven't seen a need for a rear bar, but I just finished my car recently and haven't done any serious cornering with it yet. I would really like to be able to mount a bar and at least see how it handles with/without. I'm kinda pissed about this and not sure what to do.

Is this the same problem you have? Anybody else with this problem?

 

[JerseyGN]

The holes are drilled in my lower arms, just not the right distance apart. I'm not sure how the sway bar would fit if I installed the lower arms(and they were drilled properly). I didn't want to put the a-arms on knowing I may have to take them off. I know what you are talking about with the extra support piece and I thought maybe the indentation in the arms should face towards the axle, however it doesn't appear the sway bar will fit flush into this spot.

I don't know, I guess I'll be calling Global West today to get this straight!

At least you have you're upper A-arms. I'm still waiting on mine to be delievered.

-Dave

 

[UNGN]

Originally posted by Matt Weiser
Now, GW actually suggests that you don't need a rear swaybar for optimum handling on G-bodies when you use their front control arms, too (which I also have).

Thats a new one on me

If the sway bar bolt holes don't line up, send them back and demand a refund. There are too many good vendors out there that make QUALITY pieces for less money than GW that will allow the swaybar to magically bolt on with zero problems.

When a vendor tells you "you probably don't need ______ anyway". It's time to run and not just walk away.

 

[Matt Weiser]

Originally posted by UNGN
Thats a new one on me

When a vendor tells you "you probably don't need ______ anyway". It's time to run and not just walk away.

I should clarify what I said before. GW didn't say this in response to the fact that my rear swaybar won't fit. In fact, I haven't even contacted them about the problem yet. This is what they say as a rule about their G-body kits. The reason is that their front control arms so effectively change the inferior stock geometry that the car grips better in corners even without a rear bar. The stock rear bar helps eliminate understeer, but the right control arms and geometry do the same thing. Not using a rear bar also helps the rear suspension articulate more and therefore grip the road better.

I'm not making excuses for anybody, just trying to clarify. For good reason, I think GW is generally known for having the best G-body suspension pieces, and they've given me great customer service all along.

 

[JerseyGN]

I spoke with Global West today. I told him I thought they might have been packaged wrong and were really a set for an older G or A body maybe. The sway bar mount spacing the the GW arms was 6" on center. I didn't get to measure the spacing on the factory sway bar yet. They were going to look into the situation and get back to me.

Matt, if I were you I would call them up and let them know your control arms came with no mounting holes at all. Also, did you get the lower arms for use with the side mount or bottom mount sway bar?

I'll keep you posted with what goes on.

Dave

 

[Matt Weiser]

Dave,

Thanks for the info. My arms are for the side-mount swaybar and I was told when I bought them that they are meant to be customer-drilled to account for the variety of bolt spacing in the stock swaybars. That being said, I have tried two different swaybars and that little brace is a problem in both cases. So yeah, I'll call GW with my concerns. Do you remember who you spoke with?

Thx again!

 

[JerseyGN]

They transfered me for technical assistance and I believe it was Doug I spoke with.

Good luck!

Dave

 

[JerseyGN]

Matt,

Have you had any luck with GW? I gave Doug a week with no response so I called on Tuesday night. He wasn't in when I called so I asked them to have him call me back. I even sent them an e-mail with all the dimensional information including a screen captured JPEG of an AutoCad drawing I did to show the differences. Still no response. Needless to say, I'm not happy at all about this situation! I spent over $1K on parts from them (rear lower control arms and Upper A-arms for B-body spindle) and this is the service I get! It's a real shame because they make a quality piece and I really don't want to go with poly bushings.......too bad it doesn't fit. If it comes down to it, I'm giving them 2 more days to respond. If there is no response in this time I will take some type of action (maybe a letter to the BBB and a post an all the automotive web boards I can find).

Regards,

 

[Matt Weiser]

Dave,

I still haven't found the time to even call them. I know from talking with other folks that they kinda have a reputation for being slow about this stuff. That certainly doesn't make it OK.

I also spent over $1k on their stuff (the biggest single parts expense for my project) and found their customer service to be somewhat lacking. And I live only a couple hours a way so I was dealing with them in person! I picked up all my parts in person. Then several weeks later, when I had trouble fitting the Del-a-Lum bushings in the front lower A-arms, I called them and they said to bring all the parts in and they'd press them in for free. So I bring them, in, forgot their offer, and then asked me to pay for the bushing install. All of this was dealing with Doug personally!

Only much later did I discover the problem with mounting a rear sway bar, long after the rear control arms were mounted up. Frankly, I'm not sure how to proceed. I'm not sure I'll ever need a rear swaybar, so I'm not sure it's worth my time and trouble to try to get Doug's attention on this. But at a minimum, he should know about the problem and know that I'm not happy about it. So I guess I need to get on the horn. Maybe with both of us out there beating on him about the same problem, he'll at least contact one of us!

Keep me posted...

 

[Mark E.]

I have the negative roll front control arms and the rear lowers also. I removed the rear sway bar before installing the rear arms. I noticed no ill effects in street driving and I do test it pretty good. It makes sense. If the inner rear lifts up a bit, the outer front travels more, gets more negative camber and bites harder. I am very happy with the handling of my car. I just can't forget when I drive my wife's car and try to corner like I am in mine Good Luck,

 

[Powder]

I have the GW front upper and rear lower arms also and run the stock sway bars. The rear arms had to be drilled as they indicated, but I didn't have any clearance issues when I installed the sway bar. The car handles totally different but due to the complete suspension mods I did (2" lower "B" spindles, stiffer springs, GW components, air bags) its impossible for me to isolate the affects of one part. The service I received was fine although it was evident they are a small company. HTH

MLH

 

[JerseyGN]

Matt,

Just to keep you informed on the issue, I have now called GW 3 times and sent them 2 e-mails with no resolution. Not even any suggestions on how we can resolve this. I am to the point where I'm going to send the parts back and request a refund. I let them know that if they do not make an attempt to resolve the issue I will be contacting the Better Business Buearu.

Regards,

Dave

 

[Matt Weiser]

Dave,

That's disappointing that they haven't been more responsive. But getting the BBB involved, even by name only, is a good move and should help. I've used them many, many times to move people off the dime and it ALWAYS helps.

Next time, copy BBB on your next email to GW and THEN see what happens! Better yet, write a real letter addressed personally to Doug at GW and cc the BBB on it. That'll wake 'em up!

--Matt

 

[JerseyGN]

Matt,

I found some pictures of the GW lower arms on someones website last night, and they are not like mine. The bars I saw the picture of have a tab hanging off the bottom that would have to be drilled for the sway bar to mount. This seems in line with everyone talking about having to drill their own holes for the sway bar. The ones I received from GW have holes through the main control arm tube that are sleeved and welded! They are just a ~1/2" of in center to center dimension

Now that I go back and read your original post, it sounds like you have the arms for the bottom mount sway bar. Not sure but that's how it sounds.

I'll try and take a picture of mine tonight and I'll send you an e-mail with it for your reference if you can give me an e-mail address.

dmatlack@juno.com

Dave

 

[Matt Weiser]

Yeah, I know the arms you mean, so I don't need to see a photo. We have the two different style arms. But I'm not sure that has any bearing on our swaybar mounting problems.