at first.. i was like hmmm a major non gn company beat gbodyparts to an oem design? then i kept reading... lol. i need to work at gbodyparts.com. we think exactly alike. they have nothing but buick owners in mind.
Very active brains there i see. i cant WAIT to see their versions of the wheels. i dont care WHAT they cost, id buy a set in a minute when i have the money. ive been waiting for aluminum stockers for a looong time. i love the light rotating weight, but, i just cant get myself to stray from the stock appearance. i think it ruins the look. (when im not streetracing, im showing my car at shows) but aluminum gn rims would take the cake. im in the process of getting more pics of different angles of the centrelines now.. ill post them with permission from centreline. i want to see what they look like under that centrecap as well. maybe i could paint that centre section black.
as far as redoing the og rims.. ive been a professional painter twice in my life.. and found the same thing. when you heat the spray can, it works soo much better. (so does ensuring the paint tip never becomes built up with excess paint, and making sure the paint can, and the surface of whats being painted, never dips below the mid 60's too if you can help it. also, curing it longer than whats said on the can helps, and curing it in as low a humidity setting as you can get it) but, is that black too flat? yea,,, a tad..but, thats not the final coat. what you can do to shine that is A. when its fully cured (flat and matte takes a whole lot longer to cure than glosses) is rub your finger over it for a minute. itll become satin then. or B. throw a little coat of typical car wax on it. itll satin out then too.. I wax my entire rims when i wax my car too so, mines the perfect colour.
And in response to that one post, of 'paint never sticks to chrome' is just wrong. True, chrome is the most horrible surface to paint, but once you learn all the little tricks, youll be ok. If its a dedicated surface, then rough it up with a little fine sandpaper. ( i said fine) then, go over it two separate times with a CLEAN rag, and some acetone. when its prepped, start coatin it. you know the rest. LET IT CURE. not dry, but CURE. (thats like 7 days men)
the proper paint for the wheels, (and headlight bezels) is mar hydes satin black
(And yea, it dont look like you can put a turbo 6 emblem on the centrelines.. thats a major concern with me too. maybe you can paint the centres yourself, (black) then have someone airbrush the 6 on? )