has anyone put a linelock on the rear tires

A line lock on the rear brake line will do nothing for holding power.
Either change the bias to the rear brakes with stock size rear brake or use stock biasing and use bigger wheel cyl and shoes.
Either choice is a bad idea for street the rears will lock and get sideways esp in the rain.
 
Brake booster valve

There is/was a brake booster valve on the market.
It bypassed the proporational device and allowed full line pressure to the rear brakes as long as the valve was open.
This did allow for more rear braking power for hard launches.:eek:
When the valve was closed, the rear brakes were back to normal.

Gary:cool:
 
A line lock on the rear brake line will do nothing for holding power.
Either change the bias to the rear brakes with stock size rear brake or use stock biasing and use bigger wheel cyl and shoes.
Either choice is a bad idea for street the rears will lock and get sideways esp in the rain.

You drive yours in the rain?:biggrin:
 
Bigger rear shoes & cylinders. I got rid of the factory prop valve completely. I held about 15-17lbs last time out off a foot brake! Also fresh MT DR's nice & hot. I have run an adjustable prop valve that when cruising I even them out to factory style setting & racing open it all up. But now with big fronts & Hawk pads I use nothing for a prop valve now. On the hiway in the early morning I went from 125mph down to about 15mph & the car stops straight! I didnt LOCK them up like a panic stop but hit them pretty hard! Stopped real quick & straight. Now in the rain I wouldnt know but my car hasn't see rain unless by accident & then I drive slow & take it easy. As you get older I guess its easier to just go slow & dont care what others think. Just some common sense on the street & you can run a race type setup all the time.

PS: I still have the prop valve & lines just in case I want to go that route. Nice to have the option when the wether turns nasty just turn the knob a few twists & its all good.
 
You drive yours in the rain?:biggrin:

Yes I do drive in the rain but..... I have the stock setup. The s10 wheel cyl's are too dangerous on the street been there done that.
I even had the car get a lil sideways on dry pavement with the rears locking and this is with 275 50's out back when some idiot on the cell phone cut in front of me a few years back. After that I went back to the stock rear cyl.
Spoke with turbo lou last year and he wrecked his T due to the same
 
Just Get A Trans Brake. Its Cheaper. I Went From 1.80 60' To 1.52 @15# Theres Nothing Like It.plus You Will Have A Fully Automatic Valve Body.
 
A line lock is a device that is usually used for doing a burnout. It allows the front brakes to be applied while the rear brakes are not. This allows you to do a burnout whithout abusing the rear brakes. It is also used to keep a manual trans car from moving after it is staged before a race. This device would never be usefull as a means of keeping our cars from creeping forward while bringing boost up before a race. Comparing a line lock to a trans brake is an apples to oranges comparison. They have two different purposes and all of our cars should have both. You can hook a line lock solenoid to the front or rear line and achieve the same results for doing a burnout,but again, it wouldn't do anything to help hold our cars on the line while building boost before a race.
 
I have line locks on both front and rear of my GMC typhoon. I also have a transbrake (not used it yet).

The line lock with big brakes works perfect to launch. It is the best $200 I have spent. With the AWD it still holds very well. Don't see how it couldn't be used on a buick also.

Transbrakes are great but don't get rid of all the driveline slop before the HIT, a line lock does.

Not to say a line lock is better, but it can be done to work rather well.
 
I have line locks on both front and rear of my GMC typhoon. I also have a transbrake (not used it yet).

The line lock with big brakes works perfect to launch. It is the best $200 I have spent. With the AWD it still holds very well. Don't see how it couldn't be used on a buick also.

Transbrakes are great but don't get rid of all the driveline slop before the HIT, a line lock does.

Not to say a line lock is better, but it can be done to work rather well.

I'm surprised all the guys who have never tried it but think they know it all didn't jump all over you. I know and have seen it work in a friends car but some of the internet racers think they know more then the people who have actually tried it.:confused:
 
A lot of things the internet says won't work, actually works fairly well.

Sometimes you just gotta try things because you want to, not because someone said to or not to do it.
 
AWD line lock makes sense since the load is split and SY TY's generally don't make as much torque as we do. I wouldn't want to put a line lock on 500 or more ft lbs of torque on the rear drums. I know guys foot brake at 15psi etc but then there are those who destroy the rear brakes and spend way more to repair the damage.

The line locks range in price but generally are around $100, a Stage Right is $200 and then labor to install. I went through the options and the Stage Right was more practical to me.

And regardless of what you get, you better have a billet forward drum or you're toasting more than tires outta the hole. :(
 
I will agree a line lock won't cover up for bad brakes, drums probably can't hold the power/torque like a disc can.

In my setup I suspect I am pushing 6-700ft lbs of torque based on my 4,000lb truck and a best et of 11.56 in the 1/4 and 7.11 in the 1/8th (still on just 6psi of boost). But I do have rear discs from a camaro now, front discs are from a vette (13" rotors). So the brakes work well.

Advantage of a line lock over a foot brake is in releasing it. A lot easier, and consistant to let go of a button than to slide your foot off a pedal. Plus if you do a 2 step, etc it can be tied into the same button.

Because I do have a transbrake installed, at some point I will wire that in, and the button can be switched either way. Think I don't like about a transbrake is it doesn't remove the driveline slack.

Either option is obviously harder on parts than going to the store for milk and eggs. But if you are racing you should know the risks.
 
I will agree a line lock won't cover up for bad brakes, drums probably can't hold the power/torque like a disc can.

.


Actually, drums can hold far more than discs can. That's been proven time and time again.

Where discs really shine is not in their clamping force, but rather in the ability shed heat, very fast. Not nearly as prone to fading as drums.

Now, that being said, the reason a lot of guys think drums can't hold is for the heat reason alone. Get a drum even warm, let alone HOT, and it looses almost all of it's "clamping" power.
That's why a line lock is SO VERY IMPORTANT, if like me, you're a "foot brake launcher".

It's imparative you do a burnout without stressing the rear shoes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

That heat just doing a burnout by footbraking in the water will virtually kill their ability to hold boost on the line.

With a car like mine, doing a burnout without the line lock to hold the car in the water, I can usually hold maybe 3-5# of boost on the line.
Doing a burnout with the linelock to keep the rear shoes cold, It's pretty easy to hold 15# of boost on the line.


BTW, I should add. Line locks go on the FRONT wheels, not the rears.
 
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