Heater control valve replacement part.

V6POWER

Senior Member
Joined
May 24, 2001
Which one is better, the black plastic or the original brass? I replaced my last one with the brass colored one and it only lasted 3,200 miles/three years. Appreciate any insight from anyone who has replaced their control valve.
 
Which one is better, the black plastic or the original brass? I replaced my last one with the brass colored one and it only lasted 3,200 miles/three years. Appreciate any insight from anyone who has replaced their control valve.

How’d your metal one fail? Was it an AC/Delco? IMO I would take metal any day over plastic when it comes to using with hot coolant... I’ve had an AC/Delco on my car for many, many years and it gets driven.... I use RMI25 in my cooling system (don’t know if it helps any with the valve)


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AC Delco. I don't drive the car much so maybe the valve has stuck. I tried sliding the temp. slide from cold to hot several times but that didn't break it loose.
 
AC Delco. I don't drive the car much so maybe the valve has stuck. I tried sliding the temp. slide from cold to hot several times but that didn't break it loose.

Are you sure the vacuum line didn't break or fall off?
 
AC Delco. I don't drive the car much so maybe the valve has stuck. I tried sliding the temp. slide from cold to hot several times but that didn't break it loose.
The sliding door does not control the heater valve. The heater valve only stops coolant flow on MAX ac setting. If you have heat all the time the cable that moves the sliding door or the arm /door is broken jambed. They are not vacuum controled. Go see RC.
 
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Knowing how it works can be helpful.

Both types of valves work ok, I like the looks of the metal one.

Usually when not used often the return spring gets a bit sticky and the pivot points may need some oil/lube.

Move it by hand a few times and it may cycle ok with vacuum again.
 
I had the a/c charged on Saturday (10 oz. of R-12) but the a/c would be cold one minute and then warm. However, when I drove the car today, it worked just fine. Whatever the problem, it seems to have corrected itself.

Thanks salvage V6 for the info.
 
Jim, when my brass valve got stuck, it was due to the ball valve being jammed up from sediment. I soaked the valve in CLR and worked the valve open and closed until it moved freely. See if you can work the valve (while it is still connected) by hand.
 
Jim, when my brass valve got stuck, it was due to the ball valve being jammed up from sediment. I soaked the valve in CLR and worked the valve open and closed until it moved freely. See if you can work the valve (while it is still connected) by hand.

The valve moves by hand and all seems to work just fine now. Whatever was wrong, is now right. :) Thanks.
 
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