Help Me Tune

thbjcb

Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2005
Current setup
3" DP, P&P Heads with bigger valves, 208/208 cam, 2800 stall 12", Newly installed turbotweak chip, 60's and GN1 FMIC. I attached my turbolink file for review. (Yes I know the old way). Trying to move my car to the latest chip tech. The chip is amazing at idle. The issues I had below were way worse with the old KB chip. But I want to eliminate the Knock before I push things any harder.

ISSUES: As I slowly start to get on it I get Knock at only 12lbs so I let off. I did another run that I forgot to record where I launched hard out of the hole. No knock until 2nd once it gets to third I can see the knock detector light up so I let off. One strange thing that I have not figured out is that each time when go from park to D or R the knock detector goes off. ?????? you can see it in the data in that I have 2 ESC count at the beginning of the file. IAC reading are wacky after the chip change as well. Battery was just replaced so that should have rest it ? Y OR N. O2 sensor is new and values look good when i start to get on it. Last thing is when I let off there is a loud almost like a sneeze valve sound or sudden air flow change. Not sure if this the better air flow from the FMIC or what?
Any help would be appriciated
 

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Maybe you are seeing some "false knock" due to a broken motor mount, transmission mount, loose U-joint, or some other vibration.

The air rush sound when you let off, sounds like turbo snort. My car does that also after I installed a front mount IC.
 
I will check them over, not exactly sure what I am looking for or how easy it is to see. My thought was to put some high octane unleaded in even if I have drive an hour to get. forgot to mention stock turbo with 74K and stock fuel pump with the old KB boost a pump. checked fuel pressure and it looks good while boost comes up.
 
You say your going to get some "High octane unleaded". What fuel are you running in it now?​
 
From your description, it seems as if something is loose or hitting something. Forward and reverse? 2nd gear shift? You have some slop somewhere and something is tapping something.

Check this stuff good first. Use a block and pry bar to budge over things. Notice any hits? Shake stuff around. Pull on things. Look for witness marks. Get into it and do some detective work first. This is also a good opportunity to spend some time finding potential electrical or leaking problems and just getting a good study on what condition things are in.
 
stock fuel pump with the old KB boost a pump.
with the data you have showed,the knock is happening at the same rpm with a slight drop in voltage at that point,your o2s look good but that sensor is slow to react.me personally I would replace the fuel pump and filter and feel good about it regardless if it corrects that knock.options for you would be to check for things hitting,add fp,or see if the knock goes away with better gas.this is where having a wideband would really help since that sensor reacts very fast and you could see actually afr.
 
Answering ?'s
running 92 octane. My thoughts are if the higher octane gas gets rid of the problems that would rule out false knock? Y OR N.
Knock detector goes off when shifting into forward and reverse. I can hear a loud click noise when shifting in and out of park. NEED to VERIFY this, If i remember the knock detector will go off with the engine off and shifting into D or P, R due to the loud click noise. The tranny has never been perfect and has a 1-2 flair. If I let off the the gas it goes in every time or wait to about 3K and it shifts in. Not sure if the tranny can cause knock issues.? When get home today I will check the motor and tranny mounts along with NY twin turbo recommendations. Your help is greatly appreciated!
 
Loosen and retorque the knok sensor to 14#/ft. Check the wiring and the connector when you do this.
 
very unusual connector on this thing. Cant seem to get it off. Just pull up or is there a technique to get this thing off?
 
Pinch the sides and pull it off. I just checked mine this weekend and it took me a couple of minutes to get mine.
 
Got it off with pinching the sides. loosened, torqued it to 14 and added some dielectric grease to the connector, looked fine otherwise . Out of time for today. I will start it up again tomorrow and see if that eliminates the knock sensor from going off as I go through the P,D, R WHEN THE ENGINE IS RUNNING. Does not do it unless it is running. Did notice that with out the engine not running and going through P D R there is a loud clicking noise. Not sure why though.
 
Started it up and took for a drive. Knock detector still goes off when going through P R D. Took it for a drive and it was exactly the same at around 12 lbs it will go off. Pushed it a little harder to 15 and it cam back with something like 20° retard which seems crazy. Look for any thing loose but could not find anything or anything hitting. I pried at the rear of tranny where the cross bar is and I could easily move the tail end up an 1/8" out of the support. When I did this I could see the exhaust crossover pipe move with it about 3/4 of the distance. Is this normal ? is there supposed to be something holding the end of the tranny on place or does it just rest in the slot?
 
Anyone have a pic of what it is supposed to look like ??? Am I missing a bracket to hold down the tail End???
 
Started it up and took for a drive. Knock detector still goes off when going through P R D. Took it for a drive and it was exactly the same at around 12 lbs it will go off. Pushed it a little harder to 15 and it cam back with something like 20° retard which seems crazy. Look for any thing loose but could not find anything or anything hitting. I pried at the rear of tranny where the cross bar is and I could easily move the tail end up an 1/8" out of the support. When I did this I could see the exhaust crossover pipe move with it about 3/4 of the distance. Is this normal ? is there supposed to be something holding the end of the tranny on place or does it just rest in the slot?
What do you mean?

There are supposed to be 2 bolts holding the tail shaft of the tranny to the trans support bracket which its self is bolted to the crossover. Sight movement (vibration dampening) is allowed by the rubber in the assembly and the rubber pads under the main crossover where it bolts on to the frame on both sides.
 
There is just a V slot that the tail is sitting in. There is nothing holding the tranny in the V slot its resting in int. If i pried harder i could lift it a 1/2" out of the V. i will take pic tomorrow
 
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