How much oil to the rockers?

3-5.0

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Joined
Dec 26, 2011
...Specifically the drivers side. If read correctly in another thread,someone said the drivers gets the least amount to begin with,that and these rockers are on a shaft and oil differently than say a chevy 350?. Anyway heres a little story-I changed the oil with 10w 30 and could only locate a stock listed size(as in half the size of the old AC Delco previously on there)fram filter and thought I'd only run it for an hr or so until I got to Napa and could get a proper filter-kinda an extra little filter benefit thing for 5 bucks I reasoned.

-so I did that and with the engine running-the oil pressure was good on the gauge but there was ticking in the drivers valve cover and then the car was running rough to an almost stall,then the check engine light came on. Sooo I put the old filter back on and the engine light did not come on again. Obviously at this point I was worried. Looking in through the oil filler hole it its dry in there-I can wipe my finger around and not even a film.

The stock engine has like 15k miles on it. That ticking is still there although seemingly less. I first thought it may be a exhaust leak or something and was going to check after changing the oil etc. It still wants to almost stall/miss like when I first got the car. I was going to do a new gas filter,plugs etc.
 
do you have a gauge to read the oil pressure?
When you started the car after having changed the oil and filter, did you crank the engine over to make sure you had oil pressure/oil flowing to the vital parts?(oil light on the panel went out before actually starting the engine?) I usually disconnect the coil pack and crank it a few times until the idiot lite goes out then reconnect it to start her up. It helps prevent dry start-up and can save the turbo, rings, rockers, etc.
By chance did you check the d/s header between #3 & 5 cylinder for the dreaded exhaust leak?
 
FYI check engine wont code for an oil related issue
pull the code
http://www.gnttype.org/maint/malf.html

and always fill the filter with oil and allow it to soak in to the element before install

for reference the taller filter for stock is the AC pf52 and they are available almost everywhere filters are sold
 
The problem with Fram in my experience is a really crappy anti-drainback valve that lets the filter empty when the engine is turned off.
 
do you have a gauge to read the oil pressure?
When you started the car after having changed the oil and filter, did you crank the engine over to make sure you had oil pressure/oil flowing to the vital parts?(oil light on the panel went out before actually starting the engine?) I usually disconnect the coil pack and crank it a few times until the idiot lite goes out then reconnect it to start her up. It helps prevent dry start-up and can save the turbo, rings, rockers, etc.
By chance did you check the d/s header between #3 & 5 cylinder for the dreaded exhaust leak?

Yeah theres a gauge installed,the PSI was hovering around 50. This is only the 2nd separate time I've had the car running since I took delivery in Feb(working around cold days here). I changed the oil about 2 weeks ago and filled the filter with oil when I did it. When I started it this last time I turn the key on until the fuel pump quits-then I crank and it starts up immediately,no probs,all other gauges look good.

I want to get the car running as smooth as possible with the basic stuff such as oil change (good grief) before I tackle if it has a cracked header...the DS header has a heat shield which makes it impossible to visually see if there is a crack.
 
FYI check engine wont code for an oil related issue
pull the code
http://www.gnttype.org/maint/malf.html

and always fill the filter with oil and allow it to soak in to the element before install

for reference the taller filter for stock is the AC pf52 and they are available almost everywhere filters are sold

Thanks for the link. After I put the old filter back on the service light disappeared, but I'm still worried if the rockers are getting enough oil.
 
The problem with Fram in my experience is a really crappy anti-drainback valve that lets the filter empty when the engine is turned off.

Damn chain auto parts stores,I think NAPA here is across town they have that gold series 1036 filter I've read in another thread. heh heh I'm trying not to be the later in your sig line.
 
Damn chain auto parts stores,I think NAPA here is across town they have that gold series 1036 filter I've read in another thread. heh heh I'm trying not to be the later in your sig line.

You're not even in the to 10 for the latter.

FWIW AC Delco ain't what it used to be either. Stick with a Wix (Napa Gold is a wix) or Champion Performance core (K&N or Mobil1)

I personally like wix because the Bypass spring is coil not stamped metal.

There's some pictures of a brand new PF-52 after 30 minutes of run time in some of my posts. It's an eye opener
 
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