It REALLY sounds like a massive leak in the IC piping. With the TB relocated the car can still idle and run decent, not great, and have a massive leak somewhere between the MAF and throttlebody. It's hard to find those leaks because there's very little vacuum in the piping and spraying starting fluid on suspected leaks doesn't make a lot of difference.
I got no boost!!
- Thread starter 1QUICK85
- Start date
Ya I tried the whole carb cleaner stuff and nothing happened........i will try and find something to connect the turbo to the trottle body and eliminate the intercooler and see what happens.....I dont really like the intercooler at all............I miss my spearco...........LOL.............Ford Front Mount next year i think......this 86/87 modified one is dorky and the piping is really dorky.......LOL...............but who knows maybe it will do the trick......Thanks for the idea on the intercooler, you got me thinking now......
Nick
Nick
I had a leak at the thermostat housing when I first started it up. I got a new gasket and a lot of RTV stuff and it is sealed up now!!
The coolant leak is from one of the hoses going to the heater core on the firewall.
I got my downpipe hooked up to the rest of the exhaust now.........and guess what I can hear now..........a huge exhaust leak from the up pipe to inlet area of the turbo........not sealing very good at all..............so that must be my problem.....will be fixing that later today...........LOL..........I should have hooked up the exhaust in the first place.......
So fix cooly leak and inlet pipe connection and then I will check her out again...............I will keep ya posted.....thanks guys for the help...Nick
The coolant leak is from one of the hoses going to the heater core on the firewall.
I got my downpipe hooked up to the rest of the exhaust now.........and guess what I can hear now..........a huge exhaust leak from the up pipe to inlet area of the turbo........not sealing very good at all..............so that must be my problem.....will be fixing that later today...........LOL..........I should have hooked up the exhaust in the first place.......
So fix cooly leak and inlet pipe connection and then I will check her out again...............I will keep ya posted.....thanks guys for the help...Nick
Were would I be without you guys.............probably still trying to figure out just what the hell a turbo buick is
I dont think I would own this car very long without the support of this board and that is the truth!!
How do I add threads on to my wastegate rod?........is there a tool for this.........I am assumming so, since there are people who make homemade ones.
Nick
I dont think I would own this car very long without the support of this board and that is the truth!!
How do I add threads on to my wastegate rod?........is there a tool for this.........I am assumming so, since there are people who make homemade ones.
Nick
Get/borrow a Tap & Die set. You may already be familiar with a tap which is used to thread a hole, so you can run a bolt through, etc. A die cuts threads on the bolt, or in your case a waste gate rod . A die has a threaded hole in the center of it. You run the rod through this hole and threads are cut onto the rod. Of course there are different sizes of tap & dies. I dont recall exactly, so maybe someone else will chime in, but I think the size is 5/16 (if not 1/4) coarse thread (16). Not a big deal though. You can check yourself once you get the set. just run your WG rod through the die(s) and see which one is the correct one. Or run a tap through the nut on your rod and see which is the right size.
Hope this all makes sense, Im a little tired .
. A die has a threaded hole in the center of it. You run the rod through this hole and threads are cut onto the rod. Of course there are different sizes of tap & dies. I dont recall exactly, so maybe someone else will chime in, but I think the size is 5/16 (if not 1/4) coarse thread (16). Not a big deal though. You can check yourself once you get the set. just run your WG rod through the die(s) and see which one is the correct one. Or run a tap through the nut on your rod and see which is the right size.Hope this all makes sense, Im a little tired
.OK inlet pipe leak is gone!
Found a new leak though..............the exhaust elbow has a leak right over were the puck is inside the elbow.
So I got the inlet pipe sealed up and went for a drive around the block 5 times:
The car drives fine everything and then you get into it and it just stumbles...............BUT, I DID GET SOME BOOST.........a little less then 5lbs...........couldnt really feel it..........because the car just started stumbling???????? And I watched the fuel pressure gauge and it went up by about 5lbs too. I dont smell no gas or anything. The check engine light is on for code 23!! And the car wont idle below 1500 rpms. Once I put it in gear it drops down like it should. The tranny is shifting hard have to adjust the TV cable. WTF is going on now you guys think? The leak on the exhaust elbow is very small I just searching with my hand and found that. I am a little I have a date with two Novas and a late 80 mustang at the dragstrip this thursday and it dont look like I am going to make it because of time constrants for working on my car. I may have to take the 88 trans am and get pounded........and pounded is a understatement...LOL
Thanks guys..Nick
Found a new leak though..
............the exhaust elbow has a leak right over were the puck is inside the elbow. So I got the inlet pipe sealed up and went for a drive around the block 5 times:
The car drives fine everything and then you get into it and it just stumbles...............BUT, I DID GET SOME BOOST
.........a little less then 5lbs...........couldnt really feel it..........because the car just started stumbling???????? And I watched the fuel pressure gauge and it went up by about 5lbs too. I dont smell no gas or anything. The check engine light is on for code 23!! And the car wont idle below 1500 rpms. Once I put it in gear it drops down like it should. The tranny is shifting hard have to adjust the TV cable. WTF is going on now you guys think? The leak on the exhaust elbow is very small I just searching with my hand and found that. I am a little I have a date with two Novas and a late 80 mustang at the dragstrip this thursday and it dont look like I am going to make it because of time constrants for working on my car. I may have to take the 88 trans am and get pounded........and pounded is a understatement...LOLThanks guys..Nick
I wouldn't adjust the TV cable just yet. It probably shifts firm because the car is making way less power than it should for the amount of throttle you're giving it. When the power is there the shifts should soften up.
Do you have any scan tool data? What exactly did you mean by the bad MAF reading? Maybe you still have an intake leak? Does the car run perfect when you're at 0vacuum/0boost but goes to crap when you hit boost? Last, what is a code 23? I lost my sheet of codes.
Do you have any scan tool data? What exactly did you mean by the bad MAF reading? Maybe you still have an intake leak? Does the car run perfect when you're at 0vacuum/0boost but goes to crap when you hit boost? Last, what is a code 23? I lost my sheet of codes.
The car runs fine without boost...........but with boost only gets to 5lbs......then starts falling on its face..............code 23 is mat sensor......low temp.....................I am lost, I hope it isnt a intake leak........that would suck. I dont have any turbolink readings damn thing kept locking up and then reconnecting on me.......when it was reading right everything was in the green.....but that was at idle.........fuel pressure is there.......how would I check for a intake leak.........??? throw some ideas at me guys.....thanks........Nick
Oh ya...............if i floor the car and keep it there it just spitts and sputters and doesnt build any boost past the 5lb mark..........but if i hold the pedal down it will just spit and sputter and the boost will not climb past 5lbs..........??? TIA Nick
http://www.gnttype.org/maint/8485sens.html
I am looking there and cant find the location of the MAT sensor which the ecm is telling me has a low temp or is bad.
thanks, NIck
I am looking there and cant find the location of the MAT sensor which the ecm is telling me has a low temp or is bad.
thanks, NIck
Ok I took it out again tonight.........didnt change a thing with the car........i wanted to see if I was getting puffs of smoke behind me..........and NO I am not. So should I try uping the fuel pressure until I get some black smoke to puff out???.....or our my symptoms not fuel related.......I am just digging for ideas here. You guys think it sounds more like a leak somewhere?? I did stay on the pedal(floored to the boards) for a little longer this time and I saw 7 to 8 lbs. of boost through all of the stubling it was doing. It stubbles like crazy, but drives normal without any boost. Some sensor messed up or something?? So something is messing with me and I dont like it.......... Give me any and all ideas ya guys got. I need them desperatly. I have already decided that thursday is out of the question for going to the track. I am going to take "the dog", my trans am Thanks guys........Nick
Oh ya keep in mind I got a 87 ECM with a custom burnt chip. And I am using all my stock components, the chip is suppose to be burnt that way. Could something with the ecm or chip be messing me up??? Thanks guys........
Give me any and all ideas ya guys got. I need them desperatly. I have already decided that thursday is out of the question for going to the track. I am going to take "the dog", my trans am Thanks guys........NickOh ya keep in mind I got a 87 ECM with a custom burnt chip. And I am using all my stock components, the chip is suppose to be burnt that way. Could something with the ecm or chip be messing me up??? Thanks guys........
Don't worry about the MAT, it doesn't effect performance. The hotairs didn't come with that sensor so if you didn't add one when you did the ECM conversion, it's not there.
I'm trying to think of everything you had to disassemble to install the kit. Does the intercooler piping come close to the coilpack at all? I had a plug wire that would arc to my IC piping on the Spearco kit, couldn't find the problem until I popped the hood at night. Since the compressor housing on the 49 has been rotated differently than on the IC cars, are all the bolts for the compressor housing there? At least one of them goes through and will cause a vacuum leak if missing. Why was turbo link locking up? What else did you do besides install the kit? It could be so many things. Is the alternator putting out like it should, plugs gapped too wide, bad wires, coilpack or ECM not grounded properly, intake leak, bad MAF, etc.
The best way I can think of to test an intake leak on your setup is to have someone stall it up with the hood up and stand beside the car and listen for leaks when it hits boost.
I'm trying to think of everything you had to disassemble to install the kit. Does the intercooler piping come close to the coilpack at all? I had a plug wire that would arc to my IC piping on the Spearco kit, couldn't find the problem until I popped the hood at night. Since the compressor housing on the 49 has been rotated differently than on the IC cars, are all the bolts for the compressor housing there? At least one of them goes through and will cause a vacuum leak if missing. Why was turbo link locking up? What else did you do besides install the kit? It could be so many things. Is the alternator putting out like it should, plugs gapped too wide, bad wires, coilpack or ECM not grounded properly, intake leak, bad MAF, etc.
The best way I can think of to test an intake leak on your setup is to have someone stall it up with the hood up and stand beside the car and listen for leaks when it hits boost.
Listen dude, I was trying to tell you about the MAP sensor connection on the other post, did you ever look into it? is that hooked up to line on the bottom of the intake( below the turbo)? The map sensor needs to read of the intake manifold pressure so that your motor can build boost. MAKE SURE THE ONLY THING THAT SHOULD BE CONNECTED TO THE LOWER INTAKE MANIFOLD IS THE MAP SENSOR AND THE FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR VACUUM LINES.
Good luck
Prasad
Good luck
Prasad
Ok I put on new autolites 24 gapped at .35
New MSD wires
New 2.5 downpipe
New ported out exhaust elbow
TA 49.......used
40# red stripes........used
V2 kit...lol
The V2 piping is close to the coil pack..........I have had it running at night but no sparks.......
Not sure what else to tell you guys.........the chip does have the MAT sensor programmed in it I think cause the programmer said something about it.........I did relieze our cars didnt have one....................got to go to work..........more ideas? Nick
OH ya to stall the engine what do you mean...........when checking for intake leak...........try and do a brake stand??? I tried that and the car wont do it.........boost wont kick in.....but when driving it and then mash the gas it kicks in to around 5lbs then stubbles.
New MSD wires
New 2.5 downpipe
New ported out exhaust elbow
TA 49.......used
40# red stripes........used
V2 kit...lol
The V2 piping is close to the coil pack..........I have had it running at night but no sparks.......
Not sure what else to tell you guys.........the chip does have the MAT sensor programmed in it I think cause the programmer said something about it.........I did relieze our cars didnt have one....................got to go to work..........more ideas? Nick
OH ya to stall the engine what do you mean...........when checking for intake leak...........try and do a brake stand??? I tried that and the car wont do it.........boost wont kick in.....but when driving it and then mash the gas it kicks in to around 5lbs then stubbles.
Anybody got anymore ideas on this.............could it be just about anything causing this...........? Are there certain things I can do to eleminate certain things..........Thanks guys........need some helpful tips or hints by this weekend as that is the next time I will actually be able to work on it...........not much but some. Sux having school and work.....but the GN just has to wait I guess. Later Nick
- Joined
- May 29, 2001
Have you tried:
Changing the chip?
Changing the ECM?
--The coilpack and/or the ignition module?
--The spark control module? I had a bad spark control module, and while it seems like it don't do much, it can wreak havoc with the entire computer system if it's messed up!
You said your fuel pressure was fine, and went up with boost (when you GOT boost!)...and it seems your running into trouble when the engine is getting into power, which is also when the computer starts making major adjustments--if it can...
I didn't notice any mention of whether or not you still have a cat? If so, could be plugged? Any OTHER possible exhaust restriction?
Also check your cam sensor adjustment...these engines will run with the sensor set "back" too far, resulting in extremely advanced ignition timing! (been there done that!)...in fact, if you have access to a timing light, just hook it up & see if you're running in the neighborhood of 10° btc at idle. And watch the timing mark (and the light itself) as you rev it up, to make sure it's advancing normally (and the light isn't flickering)....
Changing the chip?
Changing the ECM?
--The coilpack and/or the ignition module?
--The spark control module? I had a bad spark control module, and while it seems like it don't do much, it can wreak havoc with the entire computer system if it's messed up!
You said your fuel pressure was fine, and went up with boost (when you GOT boost!)...and it seems your running into trouble when the engine is getting into power, which is also when the computer starts making major adjustments--if it can...
I didn't notice any mention of whether or not you still have a cat? If so, could be plugged? Any OTHER possible exhaust restriction?
Also check your cam sensor adjustment...these engines will run with the sensor set "back" too far, resulting in extremely advanced ignition timing! (been there done that!)...in fact, if you have access to a timing light, just hook it up & see if you're running in the neighborhood of 10° btc at idle. And watch the timing mark (and the light itself) as you rev it up, to make sure it's advancing normally (and the light isn't flickering)....
sounds like coilpack/module failure to me...
good time to upgrade to the new stuff if you haven't already.:
http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/ignition/module.html
http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/ignition/type2coils.html
good time to upgrade to the new stuff if you haven't already
.:http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/ignition/module.html
http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/ignition/type2coils.html
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