I think my ignition module is bad?

[Gettin Faster]

The car will start and idle fine some days and others it's a full time job to keep it running tapping to gas. And when it does stay running on the bad days it sounds like a big cam out sbc! It also will not go above 10 psi. It starts to surg and run out of breath. It's for the most part a stock car. Exhaust and dual springs are the mods to it. Any and all help apriciacted the pic is of a crack in the enamel of the ignition module. I am thinking that's the culprit.

 

[Nick Micale]

That could be your problem, I have replaced many original ignition modules, and many new replacement ones had had issues from the beginning as well as after some short time use.

No way to check them, just try a known good one.

 

[Gettin Faster]

Ok I will have to buy one then. I don't know anyone with a spare.

 

[pacecarta]

this will test them .. and the coil pack
http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/product_info.php?products_id=607
combined with the optional sparkgap extenders it can also check the ignition wires

 

[Pronto]

The TR6 is expensive but a great way to modernize the whole sha-bang.

 

[whitehot1]

I know autozone can test the ignition module for you and maybe some of the other parts stores can also,they do it free of charge so it will only cost you your time.I would call the local store to you first to be sure they can do it for you. It's nice to have your own test equipment but to me it's not worth spending the money for the amount of time it will be used unless you do auto repairs for others to recoup the money.

 

[whitehot1]

The only electrical / ignition part i run from autozone is their ignition module and have been using it for around 5 years without any problems. Lifetime warranty too.

I did have them replace the ignition module once due to my ignition coil pack going bad. If one or the other goes bad i replace both as a set. The BWD coil pack i bought from O'Reilly's has a lifetime warranty too and they replaced it free also.

The only electrical / ignition part i don't have with a lifetime warranty is the IAC motor.

 

[Gettin Faster]

Awesome thanks for all the replies. I will take it to AutoZone tomorrow to test it since it is faster. the test tool doesn't seem like a bad piece to have though.

 

[Gettin Faster]

Sorry for the SUPER late response, work has gotten all in the way. I took the ingnition modual to Advance Auto and all checked out good. Now I am just about out of ideas because it runs like there is miss (when it stays on). I started it yesterday and had to gas it to keep it on. Even then it stuttered and had long pauses in running like 2 seconds of stall then stuttering up the RPMS. I am thinking maybe injectors now?

 

[pacecarta]

check the plugs and do a compression test

 

[Pronto]

How well did the car run b/f this happened? Did you do any changes right b/f it started to run like this? No mods listed so that makes it more difficult to help.

 

[hammer1918]

I had this happen almost the same problem and one of the spades on the coil pack was cracked and not always getting a good connection.

 

[hammer1918]

I had this happen almost the same problem and one of the spades on the coil pack was cracked and not always getting a good connection.

 

[Nick Micale]

The Autozone or Casper's "module tester" will not replicate the actual conditions on the vehicle?

A reliable test is to use a known, good module/coil pack on your car to see if this will solve your issue.

Since our cars were built before on-board diagnostics like later vehicles, we need to change parts or gather data to try and "see" what is happening when it is running bad.

In my case I have a spare ECM with a Powerlogger that I use in a situation like yours which will provide lots more data points which can be recorded to be analyzed later.

With 25+ year-old wiring and components, it is very difficult to pinpoint issues like yours. Another guess could be the MAF acting up periodically?

The engine compartment heat can spawn sporadic and unusual problems as the electronic components and wiring can have temperamental "fits" which are very difficult to find.

 

[Gettin Faster]

I updated my sig for the mods to the car. The car never ran great but has run alot better in the past. I have replaced iac, the gaskets on the intake, the MAF with one from a member on here (Said it worked fine), replaced the flex tubing on the intake with new flex tubing. I have put about 6 sets of plugs in it since last year. I have a new set on hold on a shelf in the garage. New plug wires last year, Cleaned throttle body. My BLM's on my scanmaster stay mostly pegged at 150 somtimes while driving they will go to 130 but when I get off the trottle right back to 150. I love the car always wanted one. I bought this one from a guy that left it on the side of his house for 7 years with the driverside window cracked. just trying to give asmuch info as I can to help you guys help me.

Thank you.

 

[larrym]

Header crack?

 

[Gettin Faster]

I have not checked those where would the crack most likely show up?

 

[pacecarta]

150 at idle i would say header maybe but 150 cruise , if plugs are white fuel issue , if black dead O2 and or bad maf making everything rich
misfiring frompoor ignition or wires will also cause a lean condition fromthe missing cylinder(s) and richen up the mixture to compensate for the unburnt air seen by the o2 (high blm)

 

[larrym]

DS fire it up and use a stethoscope or piece of vacum line to listen for a leak they crack between 3-5 it's common find a good welder and have them add a gusset for support make sure they clamp it down or the flange will warp.

 

[Gettin Faster]

Ok I will have to check for that tonghit if I have daylight when I get home. The BLS will be around 130 with the trottle pressed but no gas idle 150 all day long.