Ignition Module Hotwire Installation

You could cap the lead. I just left mine cut. It will be insulated when you re-wrap the bundle with tape.
 
I don't think it is real critical in this application. A 5-amp would probably work. I don't know how much amperage the ignition module pulls.
 
19BuickGN87 said:
Thanks, looking at the fuse panel and the CCCI is 10amp and the ECM is 10amp so I'll be using 10amp.
Click to expand...

Cool...I am at work so I couldn't look at my fuse block. I didn't realize the ignition pulled that many amps. Those factory wires look awfully small to pull 7+ amps and that is assuming all the connections are in order.
 
I don't think this is compatible with Bob Bailey's new two-step, if anyone is considering doing both.
 
Ignition Module Hot Wire

If a voltage booster is being used on the car and the entire electrical system is affected then the primary ignition coil is also seeing more voltage.How much of an increase in voltage occurs at the primary coil occurs when using just the hotwire? Now with both voltage booster and hotwire the voltage increases further.Are the secondary windings coating adversley affected by a continuous voltage increase (ref V=IR)?...premature coil output deterioration??...any thoughts?
 
I think it could be used with the 2-step, but it would probably require routing the "fuse-box adapter" to the engine compartment.

I bypassed my Red Armstrong Volt Booster by plugging the vacuum line. I am guessing some of the electronics might not take the voltage increase. The car is 25 years old and capacitors can leak even without the added stress of the booster. I just don't think it is worth it.
 
TTipe said:
If a voltage booster is being used on the car and the entire electrical system is affected then the primary ignition coil is also seeing more voltage.How much of an increase in voltage occurs at the primary coil occurs when using just the hotwire? Now with both voltage booster and hotwire the voltage increases further.Are the secondary windings coating adversley affected by a continuous voltage increase (ref V=IR)?...premature coil output deterioration??...any thoughts?
Click to expand...

Agreed, but a properly designed/operating stock system should have the equivalent of the "hotwired" modification. That's the whole problem. We are not "adding" anything, just trying to make the voltage to the ignition within spec and consistent. Are you sure the 25 year old ignition switch in the steering column is not the least bit tarnished or corroded? Maybe not enough to effect the spark at idle, but what about at high rpm? Look at the schematic in the link I posted above. The terminal "M" is labeled as "coil feed." This means your spark is dependent on the condition of your 25 year old key switch and every connection in between.
 
Maybe one of the experts (Bailey, Caspers, Racetronix) will chime in. It looks to me that that in the "un-potted" pic of the ignition module there are transistors located at the end opposite the connector. I see thermal grease, but nothing holding the transistor bus to the module chassis (screws or thermal epoxy). It seems to me that if the transistors heat up and there is an "air gap" between them and the aluminum chassis, heat would not be dissipated.

95518d1268540093-spark-ignition-dwell-time-gnmodule1.jpg
 
Started my fast start ignition swap today, also doing the module hotwire. Thanks for this info.
 
I've been working with TurboBob on getting this hotwire setup to work with his 2-step box. I just installed it last night and both the hot wire kit and the 2 step work great. Here is a modified picture of how I wired it in:

hotwire.jpg


From what I was told from Bob, hotwiring Pin P does nothing, so I simply spliced into Pin M. You will do away with the fuse adapter for the original 2 step wiring and bring those pink and red wires under the hood to the relay. I used an ATO fuse holder directly off the alternator and grounded the relay at the firewall. Here is how I mounted mine:

IMG_9578.jpg


IMG_9581.jpg


I want to thank PMoore for the original diagram and TurboBob for helping me figure out how to wire the two step.

Here is a video of how the 2-step works.

YouTube - Grand National 2 step testing
 
Good info there!!

I did my own hotwire with my fast start upgrade, it works, just don't know if there is an improvement or not. I'm sure there is though.
 
ok, so i came across this post. what issues where you having doing the hotwire and having the 2 step in the first place? i have caspers ccci hotwire on my car and im having issues with the 2 step box. bob is trying to find a fix for me
 
The 2 step cuts power to pin M via Bob's fuse adapter setup at the fuse box. If you hot wire pin M via the relay, there is no way for the 2 step to cut the signal.
 
Glad you got it working. The "P" terminal on the ignition module supplys power for the module. I would keep it "hotwired" for sure. All you have to do is run a wire from "87" on the relay to the "P" terminal. Just make sure the connection is before the two-step box.
 
Hi,

Are you sure you have the coil boot's fully seated ? They look like the terminal is not on the post. Did you hear and feel a click ?
 
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