Looking for advice on first turbo upgrade for my GN!

I have;)on a stock motor, stock head, stock tranny,stock converter its a waste of $.a 44 with a garret.63 and a d5 can go low 11s and have perfect street manners,if he then wants the 10 sec money pit he can sell the 44.

After 25# the 6262/6266 will be much more efficient;) Also, I would never run a 30 year converter hard...asking for issues.
 
its so important to have a fuel gauge you can view inmo,guessing just gets so expensive.
Yep and I'm glad you mentioned it. Because I will invest in a fuel gauge I can view.
I'm probably going to use a spare S12x micro from work and do some additional instrumentation. Micro is sealed and is meant for underhood placement. I have all kinds of peripherals to use, general purpose I/O, 12 bit atod convertor, and it has an MSCAN controller. This is an embedded micro, I also as Rasberry PI from micro center that I can do some things with. It runs a Linux operating system and there is tons of support for it on the web. The only problem, I have to mount it in the car. It can't tolerate the heat or extreme cold.
 
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Hi guys, everyone opinion is different... I say get a 6262 Ball Bearing. Now , there are a ton of members HERE who have never used a ball bearing turbo but will say its not needed. But its night and day difference. Mine spools like lightning.

Also, I would get a loose TCS Billet 9/11 or Precision Muti disc O pump. Because you have the ability to lock the converter at cruising and @ wot at the track(if you want)... 2400-2600 @ 1....those two hold up well.

imo, again, I think for a 10.5X STREET CAR or slower, a ball bearing turbo and a strong lockup converter is tough the beat. Any faster, I would go with a totally different combo.
I agree...I also have the 6262BB and it spools super fast.
 
There are plenty of vendors here who can help you, but i can tell you that i had a stock long block with a 6262 cea Journal Bearing turbo and PTC 10" 3200 LU converter with 60 lbs injectors i bought from Mike at FTS. I was very happy with this combo on the street. It was enough to scare a passenger at high boost (28 lbs lol) and enough to break my stock trans too hhahaha. You can get a LU converter AND Journal bearing 6262 both for the damn near the price of a ball bearing turbo. Personally, on a small precision cea turbo i think the ball bearing is not needed, traction was already an issue with my journal bearing.
 
Be careful with the 10" PTC 3200. I wouldn't recommend it to anybody... It's isn't really designed for our cars.. It flashes around 5500rpm...9.5nl is the cream.
 
Some of the mfs journal bearing 5858 5957 etc will spool fast and go deep 11s maybe 10s and save you $$$$$$ vs BB. Bison is the guy to contact.


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Some of the mfs journal bearing 5858 5957 etc will spool fast and go deep 11s maybe 10s and save you $$$$$$ vs BB. Bison is the guy to contact.


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It's will be okay spool but not a 5858 BB... Imo, that jb turbo needs a converter w/ the pte housing the way it comes...with a stock d5 converter. If everything is shifting and working correctly I'd definitely get a converter first and foremost ...before you take out a thrust bearing. Talk to Bison.
 
Ha my bad...he can use a Garrett cover. Spools fast.
I've cut many Garrett .63 housings for guys with inadequate converters and combos. Plenty for 57-65mm turbines after the owner realized that the ball bearing won't offset a lousy converter combo with a low compression stock head engine. The exhaust housing usually isn't enough either. The problem is magnified with MAF and exhaust restriction. For 10 sec or better power there is nothing that will touch a properly built non lockup converter like a PTC. There are a couple that are very close in comparison when ordered specifically for the engine max output but they won't cover a second range in e.t. Like the 9.5" PTC will. I've got hundreds of logs with different converter/turbo combos. The biggest gains I've logged with ball bearing is when the engine is lugged and rpm is below 4000. At that point you will notice it especially if the converter is built tight to deal coupling because it's design limited and can't work like a properly built race converter. But if the engine is loaded and RPM is at 3800-4000 just about any of the 3 bolt turbos available will spool in well under a second. You are not going to have a quick spool with any P trim turbine unit if the converter is a lockup and is 2600@0. Just not going to happen. Now the same design converter will be pretty good if loosened so it's 2800-3000@0 with a P. But it's unlikely you will be able to couple the power of any P trim turbo that's all in once that converter is loosened. Of course if you had a lockup you could lock it but you'd be throwing away a lot of e.t. in 1st and 2nd gear with that loose converter and then loading the hell out of the engine in 3rd likely causing boost spike at flash stall. That usually spells disaster for any regular chip car and if it didn't the fueling was likely very rich down low. A 17 blade stator 9.5" PTC works so well at the 60-70lb/min level with just about any turbo on a small hyd cam engine it's almost unbelievable. I was shocked myself the first time I saw the effects of that converter design over the stuff that was typically used at that time. It wasn't a little difference. It was huge. A couple tenth and a few mph with no other change on a few different examples then some went almost half a second faster because they were able to lay into the turbo harder and not blow through the converter like they were previously. The 44 or 49 with the Garrett .63 is still a winner with a stock converter. Not going to out spool that with anything with a stock converter that will support 50lbs/min or more air. If you have any exhaust leaks with the stock or even a re-stalled stock converter all bets are of and performance will suck. I've seen cars slow down half a second because of exhaust leakage.


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