Moly Lube and Thread Sealer, ARP only?

Buick Beginner

Where is my $$$ going?
Joined
Nov 9, 2001
Gentlemen,
Well I've got my ARP head bolts, I've got the torque sequence and specs, etc. The only thing I don't have is the "official" ARP thread sealer and ARP moly lube. This is a big problem because I'm supposed to start building my motor this weekend, and no one in this town, (Panama City) seems to sell it. Are there some other choices for thread sealer and moly lube that will work just as good? Any suggestions are much appreciated. Normally I would just try to order some from out of town, but unfortunatelly I'm on a tight schedule and have to put the motor together over the weekend. Thanks for the inputs. - BB
 
No problem. Just go to the Zone for thread sealer and use motor oil for the lube. The most critical issues relate to torquing. Tap-clean the bolt holes by pushing down going in and pulling up going out. They should by shiny clean. Use your old intake gasket and tighten the front and rear intake/bolts to 10# or less before torquing down the heads. This will help to avoid distorting the head gasket when the intake is torqued down. THIS IS CRITICAL - Once you get to 80# (or your final spec) loosen and retorque each bolt five (three if the bolts have been used before) times (one at a time). This is to obtain optimum bolt stretch. It also allows the threads to mate better. If indexed, you should see 20-25 degrees increased rotation over the initial final torque. Preferably torque down both sides simultaneously. I prefer to increase the torque values in only 10# increments in effort to evenly compress the gasket. I've been told to do all the torquing as quick as possible to assure proper sealing. Good luck, Joel
 
All you need to make sure of is that the thread sealer you buy is Teflon based.
 
I purchased some thread sealer at NAPA. Comes in a little tin can with brush applicator and the sealer is a creamy white. You can get the arp stuff at speed shops but costs twice what it should..........About $12 for a small tube. :rolleyes:
 
OK

Thanks guys, now just to make sure, all the bolts threads get the thread sealer. Then all the washers get some moly lube, (store brand), smeared over and under. So the threads don't get lube smeared on them right? Just the washers up top? Am I on target? - BB
 
Actually, not having an 'on location' instructor as I installed my ARP headbolts and GM headgaskets, I put sealer on a few threads on the bottom of the bolt, then I put lube on the threads above the sealer. Guess I put some on the washer...probably recommended.............can't hurt. I skipped all CRITICAL stuff and torqued in 3 or 4 increments up to 80 psi............didn't re-torque. No headgasket issues. Just lucky, I guess. ;) Drove the car 56,000 miles until I cracked my thrust bearing cap in half. :( Kept driving another 4,000 miles until I finally pulled down the pan to see why my oil pressure wasn't up to snuff. :D
 
Yeah But...

John - Some people have a lucky rabbits foot, you must have a whole lucky rabbit. Me on the other hand, I accidently broke a mirror 3 years ago, so I've got 4 years of bad luck left. Any others? - BB
 
Originally posted by Red Regal T
I skipped all CRITICAL stuff and torqued in 3 or 4 increments up to 80 psi............didn't re-torque. No headgasket issues. Just lucky, I guess.

Ditto! Clean, flat surfaces are most important.
 
Thanks again

Thanks folks, Not so John, I got it. It's always good to get reinforcments though, after all you're dealing with a guy here who took 2 days to get his 4 hour alky system hooked up. :D
 
BuickBeginner, clean/flat surfaces are also CRITICAL. But if you want to turn up the boost the old Chevy/Ford method won't work. Why not do it once and do it right? Anyone who advises you not to retorque with new bolts is flatout WRONG!!! If you don't believe me ask ARP. If you still don't believe me, keep the boost low.
 
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