My 86' T Type is fouling ou tspark plugs as fast as I can install them. I bought the car late last year and when I bought it,the kid I bought it from,told me it was running rich and fouling plugs. He had had the car sitting for a while and I figured I would run it and maybe things would work themselves out. For a while the car seemed like it maybe running a little rich but when I drove it down the street,it ran pretty good. It ran good for a while but then this spring it started loading up on fuel and became very hesitant. It has now gotten to the point where as fast as I change the spark plugs they foul out. When I pull the plugs they are saturated with gas & the oil was getting fuel in it. I checked the fuel pressure & it shows 31 lbs. I don't know if the kid I got the car from has something all screwed around. The engine is stock so I figure it is something simple. If I actually get the car to run a little bit it sounds like a stutter box,runs that way for a few seconds & then dies. And then I can crank it,but it will not start. I was thinking maybe it is the ignition system but I am not real sure. This is my first TR,so I am new at this. Please maybe someone can help. By the way,I think the kid said he put a Walbro fuel pump in the tank. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
My car is fouling out spark plugs
- Thread starter 86GNTTYPE
- Start date
I have the exact same problem I am trying to chase down. I just bought a crank sensor and I am installing it today I will let you know if it is my problem. I have verified the cam position sensor, timing chain, pumped out the tank and put fresh fuel in, taped on the MAF and it idled strong, and changed the ignition module. I will try the coolant sensor next if the crank don't solve it.
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2001
If yours is fouling all the plugs, disconnect the maf sensor and take the uppipe to the throttle body off. That will eliminate the maf being the culprit.
If you think its the coolant sensor, unplug it. You will get a code, but it wont cause it to run any worse than it already is.
How bad is it? Raw gas coming out the tailpipes?
Stock injectors and chip?
PS, running a noid light will only tell if the injector is getting its signal, nothing to do if the injector internally has a issue.
BW
I don't want to hijack the thread from the original poster but I will reply in hopes that this will help both of us.
I am fouling on all 6. Quick background: Car ran perfectly then started fouling out, within an few miles started spittering just like the story of the original poster of this thread.
I did try to start it with the coolant sensor disconnected. Lost spark!!!! Reconnected and still have no spark. I hope not a newly caused problem.
Will the car start and run without the MAF? (If so I assume it will be in limp home.) The coolant sensor is a new twist from a few threads I have read. I was skeptical at first, but for $12 I can at least eliminate it. Is there a test for the crank sensor? If so I would love to save the $40?
I am fouling on all 6. Quick background: Car ran perfectly then started fouling out, within an few miles started spittering just like the story of the original poster of this thread.
I did try to start it with the coolant sensor disconnected. Lost spark!!!! Reconnected and still have no spark. I hope not a newly caused problem.
Will the car start and run without the MAF? (If so I assume it will be in limp home.) The coolant sensor is a new twist from a few threads I have read. I was skeptical at first, but for $12 I can at least eliminate it. Is there a test for the crank sensor? If so I would love to save the $40?
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
Check the inj harness around the EGR...GRND wire Could be shorted, and will turn the inj on all the time. [As soon as the key is turned.]
Cam sensor has to be unplugged after engine is running.. otherwise, no start. Check the rotor.
Crank sensor gone = no start, no fire to the plugs.
Runs bad, could be interrupter hitting the sensor.
Go to Vortex Buicks.com for sensor tests, or to gnttype.org.
Or, buy a manual, and have all the info you'll ever be able to use.
Cam sensor has to be unplugged after engine is running.. otherwise, no start. Check the rotor.
Crank sensor gone = no start, no fire to the plugs.
Runs bad, could be interrupter hitting the sensor.
Go to Vortex Buicks.com for sensor tests, or to gnttype.org.
Or, buy a manual, and have all the info you'll ever be able to use.
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
here is Steve's site...
Vortex Turbo Buick Performance
Vortex Turbo Buick Performance
John Larkin
Sublime Master of Turbology
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
Make sure the chip is matched to the injectors. You never know. 31 lbs of fuel pressure is really, really low. Should be 38-40.
Joe Kelsch
Eat Mo' Rats
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2005
I don't want to hijack this thread either, but I have a similar problem and maybe its related.
My 86 T-type will foul all 6 plugs too. When first started the car will have a rough idle and will surge and back off several times (I have cleaned the IAC). Then all of a sudden it'll stop and idle correctly. During part throttle cruising (like 55 mph) it will load up and backfire. It'll do this after a WOT blast too. The motor was rebuilt by the guy before the guy I bought it from. It's .020 over with a GSCA 208/208 cam. Turbo and injectors are rebuilt stock parts. I have a chip from Turbo Tweak. It has had three different MAF's on it, all of which worked (currently has an LT1 with translator). I've had two different ECM's in it, two different coil paks and two different ignition modules in it. The cam sensor is new from the previous guy, but I haven't checked it yet. My brother told me that when the cam sensor is backwards 180 degrees stuff like this could happen. When I get some time I'm going to check it.
My 86 T-type will foul all 6 plugs too. When first started the car will have a rough idle and will surge and back off several times (I have cleaned the IAC). Then all of a sudden it'll stop and idle correctly. During part throttle cruising (like 55 mph) it will load up and backfire. It'll do this after a WOT blast too. The motor was rebuilt by the guy before the guy I bought it from. It's .020 over with a GSCA 208/208 cam. Turbo and injectors are rebuilt stock parts. I have a chip from Turbo Tweak. It has had three different MAF's on it, all of which worked (currently has an LT1 with translator). I've had two different ECM's in it, two different coil paks and two different ignition modules in it. The cam sensor is new from the previous guy, but I haven't checked it yet. My brother told me that when the cam sensor is backwards 180 degrees stuff like this could happen. When I get some time I'm going to check it.
Joe Kelsch
Eat Mo' Rats
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2005
Never checked that. Probably wouldn't be a bad idea either, considering the motor has been out of the car and might have been overlooked.
Joe Kelsch
Eat Mo' Rats
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2005
I'm using a Scanmaster and there are no code numbers for my problem. Though I've had an MAF code, but that was one time and it went away for no particular reason.
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
Seen this before, simple and easy to check and should be first on the list to do.:smile:
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