My car just stopped running

[Getsidewayz04]

2 days ago i installed the Gbodyparts.com 3" dp w dump and the RJC boost controller. Took the car out for the first time w/ mods and the car was a BEAST!! drove it for about 35 min and the car was smoking the tires at a 45 roll!! I couldnt beleive how much faster the car felt w just those two mods. but anyways as i was making my way back to my house the SES light came on, started flashing and then the car just sputtered and died out on the side of the road. Had to get it towed because i couldnt see anything wrong. Held fuel pressure fine and compression is def fine. My guess would be prolly ignition related?? Im puttin a snapon scantool on it tonight two see what codes were thrown. anyone else ever have this happen?? thanks again.



Nick

 

[mikestertwo]

A flashing SES light usually means you lost the eprom or the computer. Your not running a volt booster are you?

 

[turbo39151]

check the ccci fuse...

 

[8AV8]

Do you have a scan tool in the car (scanmaster)? Might want to consider one if you don't. It will give you trouble codes and a lot more.

chris

 

[Getsidewayz04]

ya i have a scantool the problem is I have an old chip in the car and it doesnt show codes thrown by the computer. I need a new chip thats def coming soon.

 

[JDSfastGN]

did u burn through the positive battery cable? It can run pretty close to a 3" DP and when they burn through they can do weird stuff. Im guessing the car cranks since you said it has good compression?

 

[Getsidewayz04]

actually i think you just nailed it. I just installed the Gbodyparts.com 3" and i burned some wires going to the battery the first time i took it out. But that doesnt totally explain it. Last sunday I went to a carshow with my dad and brother and on the way home while cruising the ses light flashed on for about a second then immdediately went away. I noticed it but didnt think much when the car was fine. Then about two days later i installed the DP and rjc boost controller and after cruising i pulled into my driveway and about halfway up the car died. Started it back up pulled it in and thats when i noticed the burnt wires to the battery. The wires looked ok but one had been melted to the copper inside. I repaired the best i could with electrical tape and new plastic on outside. That night i took it out and thats when the ses light flashed and it died. Yes it does crank. It also holds fuel pressure steady at 40 pounds or at least it says that on the fuel pressure gauge. SORRY THIS IS SO LONG! but while working on the car on the road, noticed under the coil pack on the drivers side there is a big line of bundled wires going up in this plactic protector. It was loose and when i wiggled it i thought it was wayyy to loose for my liking. Just for ****s my dad held it tightly down and when i cranked the car it started and idled fine until my dad let go then it lasted about 5 seconds before it died.

 

[Getsidewayz04]

I should have said though that i was driving the car for about 35-45 minutes just cruising and likeing my new exhuast sound lol. The car was a beast when i had it out, i got on it once at 40mph and the tires broke loose at about 3/4 throttle. Def noticed a huge SOTP difference. Then today i took off the wires at the ignition and noticed three of the 6 metal conectors on the ignition module were very rusty/nasty looking. im thinking new ignition and wires, fix all the ****ty wiring, any other suggestions??


Nick

 

[onslow]

Hi Getsidewayz04-

I would suggest the following:

Rusty terminals: I assume you are talking about the coil pack where the plug wires attach. I would replace it, although the car will start and run with bad coils. I do not think this caused the stall.

Ignition control module: Its loose connector may have caused the stall. This is the component under the coil pack and where that wire connector your Dad held, hooks up. The connector is held in place by a bolt...it must be snug. The fact that the car started when Dad held the connector in place, but stopped when he let go seems to suggest this was part, if not all, of your problem.

Now a bad module can cause a no start, but tighten its connector and REPLACE that fried battery cable first - then let us know what happens.

Steve