My just purchased '82 GN
- Thread starter BoyWonder
- Start date
Was this logo on ther air cleaner?
I saw some sticker for sale on evilbay claiming it was.
Is the "Grand National" block lettering on the fenders also available from the same source you referred to me yesterday?
Pics of the trunk
The carpet is perfect, and I always take them out before cleaning and painting the trunk.
It's actually nicer than my newer model TR's trunk carpet, as it has a more substantial backing applied, not the flimsy jute & tar the newer TR's use.
My buddy who has a hot rod shop likes to shoot it with a "RhinoLiner" type of bedliner product from NAPA, which holds up much better than traditional trunk spatter paint.
I detail the trunk, and using a grinder and wire brush, knock off the goobers of the sealer and such.
Then skim coat anything that needs to be smoothed and sealed.
Primered and take it to my buddy for bedliner application.
The space saver tire, jack, handle, wing nuts, washers, etc were also all there and removed for refurbishing.
Even the cardboard piece that fills the spare tire compartment, albeit it is a little bent and distorted.
No worries as I have several NOS ones I can replace it with.
The carpet is perfect, and I always take them out before cleaning and painting the trunk.
It's actually nicer than my newer model TR's trunk carpet, as it has a more substantial backing applied, not the flimsy jute & tar the newer TR's use.
My buddy who has a hot rod shop likes to shoot it with a "RhinoLiner" type of bedliner product from NAPA, which holds up much better than traditional trunk spatter paint.
I detail the trunk, and using a grinder and wire brush, knock off the goobers of the sealer and such.
Then skim coat anything that needs to be smoothed and sealed.
Primered and take it to my buddy for bedliner application.
The space saver tire, jack, handle, wing nuts, washers, etc were also all there and removed for refurbishing.
Even the cardboard piece that fills the spare tire compartment, albeit it is a little bent and distorted.
No worries as I have several NOS ones I can replace it with.
Attachments
Thanks and glad to.
I'm just pleased that people who know think it a worthy buy.
Sometimes my heart leads my wallet, but I thought I was semi-rational! ;-)
Next week we will begin to have the drivetrain rebuilt.
The tranny needs it for sure - that I know.
I made the decision to go ahead and rebuild the engine as well.
Even though it seems to be running adequately, I thought it appropriate time to do it while the tranny was out, and rather than find out later after the tranny comes back that we need to pull it out.
Also, I can then detail and restore the engine bay, and I'll post pics of the various stages, as well as the engine and tranny pieces when out.
Then, while the engine/tranny is out, and after I detail the engine bay, I take it to the paint shop for exterior paint.
Q - Does the nose and grill come off for engine removal?
If so, this might affect my paint plan
After paint, bring it back, re-install the driveline, and drive it for driveway / garage interior refurbishing, which appears to be typical interior trim pieces, and drivers seat + rear lower seat cloth replace.
Any comments or thoughts on plan?
Or to put it another way - Do you guys think it is prudent to bite the bullet and go ahead and tear the engine down for a rebuild?
The tranny needs it for sure - that I know.
I made the decision to go ahead and rebuild the engine as well.
Even though it seems to be running adequately, I thought it appropriate time to do it while the tranny was out, and rather than find out later after the tranny comes back that we need to pull it out.
Also, I can then detail and restore the engine bay, and I'll post pics of the various stages, as well as the engine and tranny pieces when out.
Then, while the engine/tranny is out, and after I detail the engine bay, I take it to the paint shop for exterior paint.
Q - Does the nose and grill come off for engine removal?
If so, this might affect my paint plan
After paint, bring it back, re-install the driveline, and drive it for driveway / garage interior refurbishing, which appears to be typical interior trim pieces, and drivers seat + rear lower seat cloth replace.
Any comments or thoughts on plan?
Or to put it another way - Do you guys think it is prudent to bite the bullet and go ahead and tear the engine down for a rebuild?
SMOG PUMP QUESTION
When discussing our plan for the engine, I commented that I thought the smog pump should be removed. (and kept in a box with all the pieces)
My guy thought I'd take a points hit in a show, if I deleted it.
I shrugged that off, since I'm not really building cars for other people.
I think it should improve performance lsightly and clean up the engine.
Also, I'm exempt in Georgia from emissions.
And don't really care about 49 state legal junk. There is always a ...hmmm.."workaround" for emissions testing.
What do ya'll think?
When discussing our plan for the engine, I commented that I thought the smog pump should be removed. (and kept in a box with all the pieces)
My guy thought I'd take a points hit in a show, if I deleted it.
I shrugged that off, since I'm not really building cars for other people.
I think it should improve performance lsightly and clean up the engine.
Also, I'm exempt in Georgia from emissions.
And don't really care about 49 state legal junk. There is always a ...hmmm.."workaround" for emissions testing.
What do ya'll think?
The '82 for sale on Dallas CL
http://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/cto/3416198665.html
Looks like they lowered the price to $9000 from $10,000
At $9,000, I'm getting more interested.
I'll probably have at least that in mine before I'm done, and this one "looks" done.
Details:
61k actual mileage
built May of 1982 and delivered to Cars and Concepts of Auburn Hills Michigan for GN conversion on May 10, 1982
#34 of only 215 produced
documented in the 1982 Regal Grand National Registry
earliest known documented surviving Buick Grand National
V6 engine
200R4
T-top
power steering, brakes, windows, locks
air conditioning
Lear-Seigler seats
Excellent condition. Asking $9,000. Will consider partial trade for classic car or street rod. If interested, phone me in Fort Worth at (817) 350-5497 to set up a time to come see/drive.
http://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/cto/3416198665.html
Looks like they lowered the price to $9000 from $10,000
At $9,000, I'm getting more interested.
I'll probably have at least that in mine before I'm done, and this one "looks" done.
Details:
61k actual mileage
built May of 1982 and delivered to Cars and Concepts of Auburn Hills Michigan for GN conversion on May 10, 1982
#34 of only 215 produced
documented in the 1982 Regal Grand National Registry
earliest known documented surviving Buick Grand National
V6 engine
200R4
T-top
power steering, brakes, windows, locks
air conditioning
Lear-Seigler seats
Excellent condition. Asking $9,000. Will consider partial trade for classic car or street rod. If interested, phone me in Fort Worth at (817) 350-5497 to set up a time to come see/drive.
Attachments
b4black
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
No, the stickers on ebay are for the turbo engine, whether in a GN or not (Sport Coupe). You will find it very common for folks to call all 1982 Turbo Regals "Grand Nationals".
The block lettering on the fenders is not the work of C&C or Graphik Concepts.
b4black
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
This is the trouble with the registry - misusing it.
There is a list of 93 VIN numbers with the number and date they were recieved by Cars & Concepts. The order they were recieved is not the order the the were produced on the assembly line. This car, #34, happens to be the lowest number on the incomplete list. It is not the earliest known surviving '82 GN by any strech.
There are 33 other cars with lower conversion numbers. And as far as VIN numbers go, it was built in the middle of the 215. I can account for 73 cars with lower VINs than this car.
MNcarbturbo
What's Fuel Injection?
- Joined
- Mar 9, 2009
Sweet! I would love to find a GN like that and throw my CT setup in it. Looks super clean! Last I knew there was a GN wheel and centercap on a car on a salvage yard grand prix. Knowing the place it wont be super cheap but if you really want that 4th cap next time I run down there I can see if its still there.
I'll be honest here since the tranny needs a rebuild. The rear gears should be a 3.23 but I'd check that just in case. If they are 3.23's then you might be able to go with a 2004R even though it's not original. It would give you better mileage and you could also go through the engine just to make sure it's good. A simple cam swap to something like a 204/214 would really wake the car up and still allow the puter to work without any issues.
One other thing is to see if you can find a set of the turbo hooker headers. They're a short tube type which work great in an NA application and and are short enough so you can do a single exhaust which helps with scavenging and give you more torque to help the car out.
One other thing is to see if you can find a set of the turbo hooker headers. They're a short tube type which work great in an NA application and and are short enough so you can do a single exhaust which helps with scavenging and give you more torque to help the car out.
Oh I do - I do!
I think bweavy has some but I take all I can get.
And the wheel too!
yeah - those salvage yards think they are Barret-Jackson now-a-days, but what the heck.
Please let me know?
I'll be honest here since the tranny needs a rebuild. The rear gears should be a 3.23 but I'd check that just in case. If they are 3.23's then you might be able to go with a 2004R even though it's not original. It would give you better mileage and you could also go through the engine just to make sure it's good. A simple cam swap to something like a 204/214 would really wake the car up and still allow the puter to work without any issues.
One other thing is to see if you can find a set of the turbo hooker headers. They're a short tube type which work great in an NA application and and are short enough so you can do a single exhaust which helps with scavenging and give you more torque to help the car out.
Wow - thanks Charlie!
That's all good advice!
By "Turbo Hooker Headers" are you referring to 85 or more specifically; 86/87 vintage headers?
Or is there any difference in years..to worry about
I actually think I saw someone on our blog selling some, or perhaps it was my cruising thru CL.
How do I go about checking the gear ratio on that axle?
Axle code I'm guessing..(duh!) ....;-)
LOL..and as if being a survivor by a whole or so week means any big thing.
It's like asking which twin is older..
I wonder where mine falls..again - not really caring...as long as it is legit which I think we all agree it is.
From the looks of it, mine falls somewhere toward the middle...
I gotta go sneak a peek behind that hood insualtor and see if any treasure lurks behind! ;-)
1 - Ahhh..as far as the "Power6" logo on the air cleaner - thanks for clearing that up
I didn't think so..but thanks
2 - Now for the block lettering - I suppose if I go back with them, it's my local sign guy with his graphics machine?
3 - Any ideas on finding an air cleaner threaded rod?
And I think a new avatar is in order, with the 82 and it's charcoal and silver; and the WH1 with its Astral silver, I'm rapidly moving from All Black to "some black"
They have the WE4 and GN feeling slightly forgotten for the moment.
Goes something like this:
Sorry kids - I'll get back to you later.
Meet your new brother.
Why doesn't he look just like you?
I'm sorry - ask your mother.
They have the WE4 and GN feeling slightly forgotten for the moment.
Goes something like this:
Sorry kids - I'll get back to you later.
Meet your new brother.
Why doesn't he look just like you?
I'm sorry - ask your mother.
Freddie's Buick
Hell No! I'm not a junior
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2002
Not sure about that. You can't just pop in a 200-4R. Shifter would have to be for a 4-speed, (350C is 3-speed). Also, there is a 4th gear sensor which you may not have the harness for, (ECM related). There is also the issue, (and the biggest of modifications), of a differant cross member. If you can get around these hurdles, than yeah it will easily bolt up. The best advantage of the 200-4R is the 4th gear. Good for the highway. But the 350C can handle 3.23's too! That's my set up and I have no issues. And yeah, the 350C is a tough and easily repairable workhorse. Not as sensitive as the 200-4R which cannot take abuse.
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