Need help identifying camshaft

[Cnelson6]

Just wondering if someone could help identify my camshaft. Car is an older build but has lots of kenne bell parts, so perhaps it’s related to one of those old part numbers. Numbers in the picture are E260HI0 (last could be a D) UA0116
Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[THensley]

Looks like a old Comp Cam 260 H or 212/212 flat tapet can
Set it in a set of Blocks and measure the lift. If it .293 that's it .but usually CC puts the lobe number on there're too that would have been 5211

 

[Cnelson6]

Looks like a old Comp Cam 260 H or 212/212 flat tapet can
Set it in a set of Blocks and measure the lift. If it .293 that's it .but usually CC puts the lobe number on there're too that would have been 5211

Thanks for the reply. We already threw it back in and installed the engine unfortunately. Kind of thought it would be a quick google search after and we would find all the info.

 

[TIMINATOR]

It is an older Comp 260 Hydraulic flat tappet cam. I hope you numbered the lifters and put them back on the same lobes. Whenever I remove a F T cam, I relube the lobes and lifters on the bottom and sides with cam lube.
Comp usually doesn't put the lobe #s on smaller cams, usually just rollers or customs.
Date code shows it was ground in January 2016.
Depending on other mods, the rpm band is about 6 to 700 RPM above stock, and it likes a bit more stall than stock or it usually exhibits a small flat spot on the bottom end.
TIMINATOR

 

[Cnelson6]

It is an older Comp 260 Hydraulic flat tappet cam. I hope you numbered the lifters and put them back on the same lobes. Whenever I remove a F T cam, I relube the lobes and lifters on the bottom and sides with cam lube.
Comp usually doesn't put the lobe #s on smaller cams, usually just rollers or customs.
Date code shows it was ground in January 2016.
Depending on other mods, the rpm band is about 6 to 700 RPM above stock, and it likes a bit more stall than stock or it usually exhibits a small flat spot on the bottom end.
TIMINATOR

Awesome. Thanks for the reply. Yes everything went back into the same spot as before. We labeled everything and re assembled with engine assembly lube

 

[TIMINATOR]

Have you run it yet? Smooth idle and lots of vacuum if you have a vacuum brake conversion. I have run the 212/212 and custom 213/215 hi lift quick ramp hyd rollers with 1.65 hi ratio rockers and had plenty of vacuum too. That 212/212 cam you have responds well to 1.65 roller rockers also! The quicker effective ramp rate and higher lift gives better port saturation even with otherwise stock heads and valves too.
TIMINATOR

 

[Cnelson6]

It is an older Comp 260 Hydraulic flat tappet cam. I hope you numbered the lifters and put them back on the same lobes. Whenever I remove a F T cam, I relube the lobes and lifters on the bottom and sides with cam lube.
Comp usually doesn't put the lobe #s on smaller cams, usually just rollers or customs.
Date code shows it was ground in January 2016.
Depending on other mods, the rpm band is about 6 to 700 RPM above stock, and it likes a bit more stall than stock or it usually exhibits a small flat spot on the bottom end.
TIMINATOR

How did you find that information? Just for future stuff. Really appreciate the help.

 

[Cnelson6]

Have you run it yet? Smooth idle and lots of vacuum if you have a vacuum brake conversion. I have run the 212?/212 and custom 213/215 hi lift quick ramp hyd rollers with 1.65 hi ratio rockers and had plenty of vacuum too. That 212/212 cam you have responds well to 1.65 roller rockers too! The quicker effective ramp rate and higher lift gives better port saturation even with otherwise stock heads and valves too.
TIMINATOR

Bought the car in summer of last year and was ironing out some of the bugs so didn’t really get much drive time on it. The prior owner had some work I wasn’t happy with and once some of those issues were lined out the stock turbo let go on the thrusts. So now it’s been a bit of a snowball effect. Been collecting parts for it and now been building it up. Have a different converter, bigger turbo, xfi, methanol injection, downpipe etc. I didn’t want to go to this extent but kept finding things I didn’t like so here we are. Kind of fun but hard on the wallet, especially on shipping stuff to Canada.

 

[TIMINATOR]

Call Comp cams and get a catalogue!
LOTS of good info! Read all of the tech info in the front, there's lots of it!
Some shops will donate older catalogue to customers, but now we are holding on to ours, as many companies are going online only. Shop car swap meets for cats too. Even older ones and other companies will have lots of good info!
Comp has a wide range of products and Bullit, that caters mostly to mostly race only products, are the most precision cams available and have the largest selection of quick ramp rate products.
I have owned a cam analyzer for 30+ years and have analyzed most cams that have come into my shop, so I have a bit of experience on this subject.
Some other companies "under advertise" the size of their cams to say their size XYZ makes more power than others, but then your convertor may not be correct for what you think you have.
A tip off is if they say: " you have to run our springs on our cam". That means you better look very hard at it!
TIMINATOR

 

[Cnelson6]

Call Comp cams and get a catalogue!
LOTS of good info! Read all of the tech info in the front, there's lots of it!
Some shops will donate older catalogue to customers, but now we are holding on to ours, as many companies are going online only. Shop car swap meets for cats too. Even older ones and other companies will have lots of good info!
Comp has a wide range of products and Bullit, that caters mostly to mostly race only products, are the most precision cams available and have the largest selection of quick ramp rate products.
I have owned a cam analyzer for 30+ years and have analyzed most cams that have come into my shop, so I have a bit of experience on this subject.
Some other companies "under advertise" the size of their cams to say their size XYZ makes more power than others, but then your convertor may not be correct for what you think you have.
A tip off is if they say: " you have to run our springs on our cam". That means you better look very hard at it!
TIMINATOR

I really appreciate the knowledge on this. I work on large industrial engines so the concepts are the same but there are so many more variations and variables that nothing but experience can help with. Thanks again

 

[TIMINATOR]

I have been modifying go kart/ minibike motors since I was 11 or so, and cams have always fascinated me. I re ground my first minibike cam over 55 years ago after graphing the duration and lift and using my grandpa's lathe to hold it and a 360° protractor on centers. A homemade tool post grinder and turning the cam 5° at a time got me the first modified profile!
I added 20 something degrees duration and about .060" lift to it, and it had a cool idle! I milled the head in the late too! In later years, I found if I milled the head too much the valves hit it, so I ground pockets in the head for clearance, then milled the deck for more compression.
I got every old cam catalogue and hot rod magazine I could, to learn more. I learned how to rebuild and modify carbs about then too.
Putting a cam on centers in a lathe with a degree wheel and a mag base dial indicator allows you to graph ramp rates, lift, and figure advertised and .050 duration of unknown cams. It takes time, but if you don't have a cam analyzer, you can figure it out.
I bought my first cam analyzer from Bill "grumpy" Jenkins and Joe Lepone when they were running Pro Stock in about 1987 or so.
Lift, advertised duration and .050 duration info is better than nothing, but still doesn't tell you dick about how two brands of cams will run like. Ramp rates, area under the curve, inverted rollers, and ayssemitrical lobes can't be seen with the naked eye but can mean car lengths on the track!
Comp Cams tech line and every cam catalogue you can find will give you a leg up on the competition! Read all of the tech in those catalogues!
TIMINATOR

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

Kind of fun but hard on the wallet, especially on shipping stuff to Canada.

Ask the guys south of the border and the vendors to ship via USPS. It's the cheapest. Never ship via the Brown Truck.

 

[Cnelson6]

Kind of fun but hard on the wallet, especially on shipping stuff to Canada.

Ask the guys south of the border and the vendors to ship via USPS. It's the cheapest. Never ship via the Brown Truck.

Yes we found that out the hard way on one of the packages unfortunately. I got hammered pretty good on an order.