Need help, powerlogger files attached.

[slowboi]

So I bought a car from a member on here and didnt like the set up so I re-worked it. While I ripped the car apartI fixed numerous isues:
Broke water pump bolt, no bolts in the intrcooler, freyed surpintine belt, wiring looked like a birds nest, 2 of 4 guages didnt work all the time, blah, blah, blah. etc.

I then dumped the oil, checked all the grounds, replaced the spark plugs, replaced the injectors.
The car has a forged stroker motor with all the bells and whissles. 215/218 roller cam,gn1 ported head, 6265 turbo.

I then ordered a new twin nozzle alky kit, a power logger, and the matched 6.1 turbo tweek chip, and attached a plx wide band. (scan master was there already)

I cannot seem to get the car to go past 10psi without breaking up. I figured with the wide band, matching chip, powerlogger and new alky kit I would be close, but no. The chip is supposed to be set up for 24psi..... no way I can run tht now. I tried to check the health of my fuel pump and it seems to start at around 39psi and go to 49psi at wot..... is this normal?

The car runs fine until 10 psi or so (rolling into the throttle) then is breaks up and shows a small amount of knock (like 2-2.5 degrees) I immediately get out of it.

I tried adjusting the base fuel pressure up to 142 (cel 4) no good (althoug it changed the reading to 128)
I tried pulling 10 degrees of timing in 1-2 and 3-4 ...... no good
I made sure my fuel pressure eg was set up at 43 psi at idle

I have not touched cells 1,2,3 becuse im not sure how to adjust them.......

Also I thought the whole reason for the widebanwas so you could be close and still get by on the correction factor. How do I make sure its referencing the wide band? or is that the default? The afr reading is appearing on the logfiles.

HELP!

 

[slowboi]

I have tried a bunch of settings on the alky kit as well....... I may have to wipe everything out and start fresh.

 

[TurboBob]

turn the boost down to 16, turn the alky off, and tune from there.

B

 

[slowboi]

Ill do a few runs with the alky off and ill reset the chip to its original settings, ill set it for 15 psi and post the files up......

 

[Eric Stage I]

Something seems way off there. The BLMs are too high, even at the low end. Can you email me your info so we can confirm the chip and injectors match.
Eric

 

[TurboBob]

glad you jumped in Eric, I didn't review his log, just suggested a strategy.

Bob

 

[slowboi]

Eric ill email you right now.

What I did to try and start fresh was I pulled off my boost controller and set the turbo up to run off the gate. The turbo has a low pressure gate so it should max out at 13-14 psi. I reset the preload on the arm to make sure the gate was working.

I then disconnected the battery and reset the chip, I then unplugged the power to the alcohol injection.

The car seems to run alright up to 14 psi at wot, UNFORTUNATELY my laptop decided this was the time to do a 2 hour windows update, so no logs. I will log my 14 psi no alky runs and post them tomorrow.

 

[Eric Stage I]

I checked out your chip file and everything appears to be right.
I noticed in your log that the stock O2 reading is stuck around .400 at idle which typically means the sensor is dead (or there is a wiring problem). I think that's what's causing the BLM's to be high. So I would stick a new O2 sensor in there.
On the breaking up, as Bob said, see what happens with the alky off (don't let it knock).
Do you have a MAF Translator on there, or stock MAF?

 

[slowboi]

I have a translator on the car with a 3inch maf. I will order a new o2 tomorrow. I will post new logs with the new o2.

 

[slowboi]

changed the o2 sensor and the car is running worse.... (how is that possible?)
It went from 2 degrees of occasional knock to 10 degrees. weird thing is with the alky off the car knocks less?
At this point im scared to do anymore runs as I don't want to kill the engine.
Kind of at a loss.
I attached the file.

 

[TurboBob]

the spiky RPM trace starts at about the same time as the knock retard.

I would stop buying new parts and start troubleshooting the way it is.

check for loose grounds, loose balancer bolt, check the plugs to see if they are all the same color.

keep the boost low, we also need to determine if the knock is real, or just mechanical noise. Have you ever heard it "ping"?

Bob

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

Have you verified your fuel pressure is rising with boost?

 

[Eric Stage I]

Did you record a log with the alky off? I'm wondering if you are having some electrical interference between the alcohol controller and Translator box, as the maf signal and injector pulsewidth seem jumpy when the alky is on.

 

[TurboBob]

the last log shows a code 42, and the Service Engine light on. Is your SES light working?

with the RPM jumpy, not to mention the code 42, the spark timing is most likely not what its supposed to be. More troubleshooting.


the rpm really worries me the most at the moment, injector pulsewidth is MAF/RPM (more or less) so if the RPM is messed up, the injector pulse with be messed up.

my guess is the MAF signal is a little lumpy because he's getting some sputtering.




B

 

[slowboi]

the spiky RPM trace starts at about the same time as the knock retard.

I would stop buying new parts and start troubleshooting the way it is.

check for loose grounds, loose balancer bolt, check the plugs to see if they are all the same color.

keep the boost low, we also need to determine if the knock is real, or just mechanical noise. Have you ever heard it "ping"?

I have never heard audible knock. I re-wired most of the gauges, etc. before installing the wideband etc. I will double check the ground under the hood im using. All the new stuff is on a separate sub fuse panel. The down pipe is nowhere near the frame.

Have you verified your fuel pressure is rising with boost?

Ive double checked the fuel pressure with a mechanical gauge, from idle to wot it goes up 10psi.

Did you record a log with the alky off? I'm wondering if you are having some electrical interference between the alcohol controller and Translator box, as the maf signal and injector pulsewidth seem jumpy when the alky is on.

I havnt recorded a log with the alky off. I can do a 10psi pull tomorrow and post it up. How do i address the alky controller and the translator? They are mounted nowhere near eachother..... Could this be related to my wideband in some way? The little mounting plate where the wires from the map etc. go is mounted really close to the brain of the wideband..... It seems my afr 's got leaner when I changed the o2.... I dont know if that makes sense.

 

[slowboi]

the last log shows a code 42, and the Service Engine light on. Is your SES light working?

with the RPM jumpy, not to mention the code 42, the spark timing is most likely not what its supposed to be. More troubleshooting.


the rpm really worries me the most at the moment, injector pulsewidth is MAF/RPM (more or less) so if the RPM is messed up, the injector pulse with be messed up.

my guess is the MAF signal is a little lumpy because he's getting some sputtering.

The check engine light is working, I saw the code but when I drove home to double check it with my scanner it was gone, and the light went out......

 

[slowboi]

The plugs are fresh autolite ar3932's I believe. They are gaped fairly tight like .020..... thats from memory though.

 

[slowboi]

The other thing I should verify: I am using the map signal from the 3 bar (powered by the tps). The wire is split between the alky system and the powerlogger. Essentially the green wire from the map goes into the cabin and then y's to both units. Could that be an issue?

 

[TurboBob]

probably not. lots of guys connect that way.

 

[TurboBuRick]

Very strange looking files.

The 02 sensor doesn't control any fueling at wot. It's just showing data. The wideband and the stock o2 are showing different. According to the stock o2 it's rich at idle but the wideband says lean. Where are you grounding the plx?

Check main power and ground cables from battery. Make sure they are all tight. On the battery and engine. Check grounds on the back of the head passenger head. Check body grounds as well. One right at the battery to the fender and the strap on firewall to engine block.

Also make sure the fuel pressure regulator is working and the vacuum/boost line is functioning. I've seen the steel tubes clog.

HTH

Rick