I just bought an 87 GN a couple months ago and I am new to the quirks of these cars. After sitting a couple of days when I first start the car the engine idle will hunt up and down almost killing the engine but once the engine is warm it idles at about 2100 rpm fine. Is this normal? Also notice alot of condensation from the exhaust pipes. I am currently buying all the filters and fluids, plugs to go through the car for a good spring clean up. Car is all stock has only 42000 documented miles and a new coil pack and last owner said wires are new. Just want to get it right before I start driving it. Thanks for any help you guys can give and advice.
Normal engine idle for 87 GN
- Thread starter viokrome
- Start date
My car did much the same when I bought it. High idle on a cold start. During my spring cleaning I found my IAC stuck in one position. Not sure if that would cause the problem. Idle speed will vary with your choice of chips & injectors, but it should usually be around 750-800RPM.
Good luck
~JM~
Good luck
~JM~
Ok guys now I am really confused, after doing some reading around the forums some say normal some not. I am going by the stock tach which some say is inaccurate. I guess a scan tool is going to be on the list of things to buy. I am going to do a IAC reset and check the TPS with my meter.
longball
I fought the lawn...
- Joined
- Apr 10, 2009
I think you will find not just the quirks of 'these cars' but the specific quirks of your car. I notice that when someone asks a question that you get 10 different answers and these things worked on 'their' car. Their solutions may or may not work on your car. Of couse, only 1 in 10 of the solutions can work. For example when I bought my GN I knew NOTHING about cars and even less about GN's. I didn't realize that it had a turbo until about when I was signing the loan papers!
When I would start the car it would idle up and down - 400 rpm to 2200 rpm - up and down, if I put it in drive before it was warm, it stalled, had to be warm and settle in at 750 rpm. The first time I took it back to the dealer I asked about this. I don't remember exactly what he said - 25 years ago - but he said something about the technology - same reason why jets and certain drag cars had to warm up first. I knew nothing - he's the dealer right. It was part of the price I had to pay for the speed and technology he said. Asked around for a few years - nothing. Finally ran into a guy with I think an 89 TA with 87 GN drivetrain. He said he was told same thing by his dealer. A few more years go by - this waiting 3-4 minutes to drive car was annoying. Ran into a top-notch mechanic He says buy a heated O2 sensor. I did. Car would be at 750 rpm within 20 seconds. Problem solved.
2100 rpm is way too high, problem somewhere. Condensation out pipes isn't unusual if car hasn't been driven much. Most likely water in the mufflers need to be burned out. HTH
Mine does the same things except the idle...2100 is def too high...but I wouldn't consider what the stock tach says as the gospel. These cars do have different little "quirks"..condensation in the exhaust, oil drips that appear to be coming from no where (LOL)...but they are great cars and once u get past worrying about it u'll have fun.
Ok today change the oil with Mobil 1 Extended performance 10 w 30, changed stock shocks to bilstein and springs with moog stock in front and progressive rate in back. got the car up to temp around 180 and the idel was at 1300 rpm in park. Still got to check air filter, MAF,TPS and IAC tomarrow. The speedometer lights fuse blew so got to find out whats up with that now.But i did get to drive it tonight and what fun! until the dash lights went out! LOL....
A friend of mine suggested the mobile 1, so I researched it and with some zddp additive should offer good protection. Scanmaster is next on the list!!! I found what blew my gage lights also gray wire to the shift light in the console had pulled out of the terminal. Thanks for all the suggestions....
I agree that you need a scanmaster and turbotweak chip. Sounds like the IAC is bad. I would purchase a new one. The set it. Would make a big difference, but then again the TPS could be off causing the IAC to act up.
Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner
Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner
News to me. I've had my WE4 for about 17 years and it has over 190,000 on the engine (never been rebuilt) and over 200 drag strip passes (mostly in the 12 sec range). Mobile 1 is all I've used until changing to Amsoil the past year or so.
Rafs-T-Type
Not so Senior Member
- Joined
- Mar 8, 2009
The stock tach and boost gauge are notorious for going out of calibration. You should be able to hear the difference between 2100 and 800 rpm's. You could always send you tach/boost gauge to caspers electronics to have it recalibrated. Or you could just ignore it and get a scanmaster which you should get anyway. This will show you if many things are in spec. Also cleaning the maf sensor and iac sensor might help bring the idle down if it is fact high.
Similar threads
