Problems with ARP Head Studs

1

1quick87GN

Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2010
Has anybody ever had any problems with ARP Head Studs with Cast Iron Heads? I have heard of some people having to put washers on two of the bolts under the valve covers to get the proper torque on the heads. It is the two that are recessed a little toward the outside of the heads. The car keeps blowing the head gaskets and exhaust gases are getting in the coolant water. This was determined after a shop put some kind of colored solution in the radiator and it changed colors. It is like the studs are not going into the block far enough but the holes are clean. When the nuts are installed with the heads on, it has much more thread showing on the top of the nuts. Has anyone ever had this problem?
 
Arp Studs

Do you have the studs in the right holes. Because the studs are diffrent lengs. and did you put sealer on the threads before you put them in the block?
 
Studs

There are three different size studs and they are in the correct places. The procedures were followed that were with the studs. Sealer has been used.
 
I have not had any issues with the ARP studs. Maybe you should try a different gasket, and/or tune. I have seen widebands, boost gauges, and knock sensors that were giving false information. Sorry to hear about the issues. I know HG work is a Pain!
 
studs

Yea, I know ARP are great. I don't actually have them on my car but I will in the future. I am actually been lucky, I have only removed my valve covers only to put aftermarket ones on. This problem is on a friends car and he does not have a account on here yet but he will soon. I was just currious if anyone else has ever had this issue so we can get his back up and running and plus to find out what we are doing wrong to prevent this problem in the future, like on my car.
 
When you install the studs, they should have the allen head (recessed) in the end. Screw them down until they bottom, or close to it. You should see nothing but threads left on the studs.

Not sure I understand this: "it has much more thread showing on the top of the nuts"... You mean when you torque them, there is a whole lot of thread left over the top of the nut, as compared to the rest?

Sure you got the right part number studs? I thought some were for 85 blocks, others for 86/7 due to deck height or depth of threads??? Someone refresh my memory....
 
studs

Thanks for all the info. From what I am told, he assured me that they are the correct part number studs. I will check into that. When the heads are torqued down, all except two on each side have about 3-4 threads visible. The other two in question have about 6-8 thresds visible.
 
Wrong studs???
Studs for alum heads are different.
Pt# 123-4203 are for cast iron heads...86-87
Pt# 223-4204 are for Champ alums.

Different part numbers for a reason....
 
studs

That was one of first things we thought. Does anyone know the difference from 86 to a 86 stud? This is on a 86 GN. He does not know the part number, the studs were orginally purchased from a reliable engine builder in the local area. Could there be any chance of his 86 GN having a 85 block, just currious?
 
studs

85 would have a 14 bolt oil pan.I have a box of new head studs and they say 86-87 only
 
1quick87GN said:
Has anybody ever had any problems with ARP Head Studs with Cast Iron Heads? I have heard of some people having to put washers on two of the bolts under the valve covers to get the proper torque on the heads. ..............
Click to expand...

Sounds to me like one of 2 problems?

First, the stud shoulder is above the deck of the head so the nut seems torqued properly, but bottomed out on the shoulder.

Other possibility, the head, or heads, are cracked. Was a pressure test done on them by the shop?
 
Studs

The threads were chased before installing the studs. We are now in the process of removing the heads and have them checked. I will keep everyone informed on the results.
 
Yo David whats up...Man that car doesnt like Bob:mad:.

The car had the short studs not torqued down due to them being to high and the nut was simply torqued on shoulder.

Car was driven and kicked a few times in this condition.

HG (rjc) blew/leaked/seeped at short fastener affected areas.

Then studs had washers added to them (HG not replaced/touched) and retorqued.

Car still leaked afterwards....HG were compromised and simple retorque at short fasteners wont fix once the leak was made were it "dug/broke" through sealant with the RJC's.

Must pull heads and and redo HG.

Bet the heads are fine, just the leak at the short studs comprimised the HG and resiliconing/reinstalling them will fixem em up. But I believe hes going back with cometics. Maybe im wrong but hope he gets it fixed up this time. He has been through the wringer with that car.
 
studs

He took the heads off yesterday. The intake was on good, had to pry it off but when the head bolts were removed the heads just basically fell off. They seemed to not have torqued to proper specs. The gaskets were clean looking. The heads are going to be checked and reinstalled if everything looks good. I hear 3rd or 4th time is a charm.
 
1quick87GN said:
He took the heads off yesterday. The intake was on good, had to pry it off but when the head bolts were removed the heads just basically fell off. They seemed to not have torqued to proper specs. The gaskets were clean looking. The heads are going to be checked and reinstalled if everything looks good. I hear 3rd or 4th time is a charm.
Click to expand...

Hope he gets it fixed up this time
 
"Then studs had washers added to them (HG not replaced/touched) and retorqued."

Does this mean that there were no washers to begin with???
 
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