Questions as they come up about my V2 project!!
- Thread starter 1QUICK85
- Start date
OK guys I forgot I still need a number on torque specs for the intake to heads..........turbo regal web site say 32ft/lbs......i just want to be sure with you guys.............
Should I replace the oil feed line to the turbo.........I was thinking of going with the ATR Stainless steal braided line........but the catalog doesnt specify which year it works with.........I will have to check.........anyone know were I can get one cheaper?
Also since I can get to the spark plugs really easy now I am giong to change them ........... what plugs would you guys suggest for my combo........I am not sure how fast I will be, so I just want to know what spark plug to go with........I am leaning towards the autolites....which one have you had good luck with? I think that is it for now...............off to buy me a torque wrench...later
TIA Nick
Should I replace the oil feed line to the turbo.........I was thinking of going with the ATR Stainless steal braided line........but the catalog doesnt specify which year it works with.........I will have to check.........anyone know were I can get one cheaper?
Also since I can get to the spark plugs really easy now I am giong to change them ........... what plugs would you guys suggest for my combo........I am not sure how fast I will be, so I just want to know what spark plug to go with........I am leaning towards the autolites....which one have you had good luck with? I think that is it for now...............off to buy me a torque wrench...later
TIA Nick
Intake to head torque value in the Buick manual is
32 ft#. I bet the ATR line is for an 86/87 and won't fit, but
you can call and see. Spark plugs? Well, that's like
Chevy's - everone has an opinion. I use Champions
gapped at .035", seem to work OK for me, but I'm
no racer. So that may not be valid for everybody,
or you either. The fail safe is to go with the manual,
of course (.040", I think). Reseaarch the GNType.org,
and this board and there will be reams on this subject.
On torquing the intake, start in the center and do an
alternating pattern across each side of the intake.
Snug it down, then go back and torque to final
value, same way.
32 ft#. I bet the ATR line is for an 86/87 and won't fit, but
you can call and see. Spark plugs? Well, that's like
Chevy's - everone has an opinion. I use Champions
gapped at .035", seem to work OK for me, but I'm
no racer. So that may not be valid for everybody,
or you either. The fail safe is to go with the manual,
of course (.040", I think). Reseaarch the GNType.org,
and this board and there will be reams on this subject.
On torquing the intake, start in the center and do an
alternating pattern across each side of the intake.
Snug it down, then go back and torque to final
value, same way.
Ok guys I got a TA49 that came off a 87 GN. So it needs to be reclocked............i know what this emplies but how the hell do I do it..............All the bolt are lose on the center section to turbo and the center section to the exhaust housing for the inlet/up pipe........but none of it will actually come apart........two of the bolts running to the inlet section hit on the center section and are not fully out so is there something else I have to do to get it apart to reclock........I dont have to fool with the actually internals do I? Thanks again..........you guys are the heart and soul of my build up...........TIA Nick
Oh ya check out my sig link to my pics...........I got more pics loaded up.......V2 project album!
Oh ya check out my sig link to my pics...........I got more pics loaded up.......V2 project album!
The turbo will be loose in three pieces, the inlet
housing, the exhaust elbow and the center section when the
bolts are loose AND you break the corrosion which is holding it all together tightly now. May require gentle pursuasion
with a nice BFH. Just whack it firmly to cause it to rotate.
That will free it up. Careful, don't break something!
Don't drop the turbo on your foot while you are
banging on it. Toes break rather easily and
hurt like the dickens. (Ask me how I know). Then,
rotate it, get it about right, snug it up, but free
enough so you can move it, with
a couple of bolts that are accessible with the turbo
bolted down and move the turbo parts to get them
aligned up so everything fits together. Then take the
turbo off. Replace and tighten all the bolts. Reassemble
to the engine, hook up the wastegate (yeah, right!
this is gonna take a while!), and go.
housing, the exhaust elbow and the center section when the
bolts are loose AND you break the corrosion which is holding it all together tightly now. May require gentle pursuasion
with a nice BFH. Just whack it firmly to cause it to rotate.
That will free it up. Careful, don't break something!
Don't drop the turbo on your foot while you are
banging on it. Toes break rather easily and
hurt like the dickens. (Ask me how I know). Then,
rotate it, get it about right, snug it up, but free
enough so you can move it, with
a couple of bolts that are accessible with the turbo
bolted down and move the turbo parts to get them
aligned up so everything fits together. Then take the
turbo off. Replace and tighten all the bolts. Reassemble
to the engine, hook up the wastegate (yeah, right!
this is gonna take a while!), and go.
Alright I will have to fool with the whole turbo thing again today............The big things I got left to do that may take me a while are the wastegate, and vacumm lines...........still waiting on my new up and down pipes too.........but man the intake is on and she looks pretty.......took maybe 10 minutes......i was so relieved I thought it was going to be a pain in the ass like everything else has seemed to be.......I will keep ya guys posted.............now where is my BFH? Nick
Nick"TRYING" to run the vacuum lines and I am having a bit of a problem figureing it out.............couple questions for the pros
Do I need to run that long black metal tubing that has all the ports coming of it. It sits on the driver side of the intake. I am thinking probably since it breaks one vacumm line up into a few.
The vacumm block I got, that I am trying to use has 4 ports on it..........that includes the port that connects to the intake.
I found a check valve in the box that all my V2 stuff was sitting in.........damn now I got 2. I am going to try using the one behind the PCV valve, just for kicks.
The pictures that Buick From Hell has post on the sticky........helped me out alot too.
Since my EGR valve is not being used what on top the driver's side valve cover can I get rid of.......or should I leave it?
And is everyones TPS sensor wiring as long as mine........wholy cow I could reach the back of the car with this thing!
Any good tips or easy way to run my vacumm lines guys?
Thanks again and again..........Nick
Do I need to run that long black metal tubing that has all the ports coming of it. It sits on the driver side of the intake. I am thinking probably since it breaks one vacumm line up into a few.
The vacumm block I got, that I am trying to use has 4 ports on it..........that includes the port that connects to the intake.
I found a check valve in the box that all my V2 stuff was sitting in.........damn now I got 2. I am going to try using the one behind the PCV valve, just for kicks.
The pictures that Buick From Hell has post on the sticky........helped me out alot too.
Since my EGR valve is not being used what on top the driver's side valve cover can I get rid of.......or should I leave it?
And is everyones TPS sensor wiring as long as mine........wholy cow I could reach the back of the car with this thing!
Any good tips or easy way to run my vacumm lines guys?
Thanks again and again..........Nick
Ok guys havent been able to work on it all week..........dont got no parts..........lol...........header is getting welded so I am kinda of held up on that..........i got my ATR SS downpipe....looks fing nice.....ordered my custom burnt chip, so I just have to throw the following parts on: turbo, downpipe, up pipe, header, spark plugs, ac compressor, alternator, and some hoses...........and I still have to figure out the vacumm lines that run from the passenger side vacumm port off the intake.....but once I get the turbo and everything mounted it should be a little easier to picture. So hopefully I should be up and running by sunday at the earliest or tuesday night at the latest...depends when my chip comes...........just keeping you guys up to date on my little project............thanks..Nick
.....thanks..Nickwell I have heard it already thru my stock downpipe..........and holy cat dogs It sounds so damn nice..........big block or something really badass...................
What do you think of me putting the atr downpipe on and then taking it to my local muffler shop and having them take some aluminized pipe and making me a single shot 3in pipe to connect to the 2.5in downpipe...............no muffs, no cat...........the new downpipe is longer then the original......i do have a atr racepipe now.....but i was thinking a 3in exhaust made up would be less then $100 bucks...........would it help more then the 2.5in.....???????or should I stay with my rusty old kenne bell exhaust............any suggestions.......no emissions here.......Nick
What do you think of me putting the atr downpipe on and then taking it to my local muffler shop and having them take some aluminized pipe and making me a single shot 3in pipe to connect to the 2.5in downpipe...............no muffs, no cat...........the new downpipe is longer then the original......i do have a atr racepipe now.....but i was thinking a 3in exhaust made up would be less then $100 bucks...........would it help more then the 2.5in.....???????or should I stay with my rusty old kenne bell exhaust............any suggestions.......no emissions here.......Nick
The ATR pipe is designed to be cut off to suit the
exhaust system, whatever you are using. I bolted
mine on and took it to the exhaust shop
and had them hook it to my exhaust system.
I use the KB exhaust system. You pays your
money, you takes your choice on exhaust systems.
IMHO, keep it simple, use what you got.
exhaust system, whatever you are using. I bolted
mine on and took it to the exhaust shop
and had them hook it to my exhaust system.
I use the KB exhaust system. You pays your
money, you takes your choice on exhaust systems.
IMHO, keep it simple, use what you got.
