repaint in near future

[CJ's6]

What are most repaints being done in? lacquer/enamel or base coat clear? I have a 86 white t-type with the blackout package. I do want to keep the white, but possibly thinking about some type of pearl!! Please give me your thoughts on this issue. (will be taking car down to bare metal btw).
Thanks,
Chuck

 

[DJ Red Barron]

I can't speak for everyone. But I went with base/clear. It shines like mad, too! I would suggest this if you are wanting to add a pearl.

Since that is the thought you have in mind, here's a paint scheme idea for you:

White with a dark gray pearl on top (where the pictured car is black)
Blue alcohol true flame break line using only pearl colors (where pictured car has a red break line)
White with silver pearl below break line (where pictured car is silver)

Or a variation thereof. I'm not sure if what my mind is seeing is coming through with my description. So consider it just an idea for you to kick around.

Now I will say, in the following thread, there is a single-stage paint job that is mind blowing:
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/turbo-lounge/290015-check-out-my-tb-photos-today.html

I bow to that. SPOOLFOOL is a maniac on buffing a car apparently.

 

[turbo39151]

Spoolfool not only buffs his car alot but he also innovates some pretty crafty items as well... You need to ask him.

He has, hands down, one of the best paint jobs I've ever seen on TR.

 

[BEATAV8]

If you're going to stick with a straight color like black or white or red or whatever... single stage urethane will work nicely. Single stage is easier to touch up when you get chips and such. If you want pearl or mettallic then you should probably go with a base / clear.

 

[CJ's6]

Thanks for the replies. I really like that paint scheme on yours DJ (looks awsome). The guy i have been talking to about painting it can really do a nice job with the lacquer enamel, and he does not use any clear. I really like the pearl paint though. Also thinking about loosing the side moldings, but haven't made up my mind on that yet. I will be stripping the paint myself to try and save some $$$$$. (still will probably cost a small fortune i'm sure). How do the pearl paints compare in price to the regular enamels, lacquers, and bases?

 

[6APPEAL]

My 86 GN was lacquer. Stunning when clean, polished and waxed. But was a b!@#& to keep that way. Tree sap, bird droppings, even rain caused a re-polish. Lacquer just could not stand up the the elements. My 78 was base/clear. Super easy to keep looking great.

My TSM car had a cheezy single stage paint job done on it prior to my purchase, and it's showing the sh!tty work. But it will have to wait until the street car gets the cracked orginal paint off. I agree that a single stage paint job can look great and be easy to maintain, but it's all in the details (as it always is with paint). The GN's will most likely be getting base/clear, but we'll see. Gotta raise the funds first.
John

 

[CJ's6]

Yeh, the more i learn about paint, makes me lean toward the base coat clear coat in arctic or base white with silver pearl. My buddy had that on his mustang and it looked killer!!! (would look much much better on the t-type though)!!!!!!!!!:biggrin:

 

[BEATAV8]

Lacquer is notorious for durability issues, but it is IMO the most beautiful when it's ready for show.

My light blue met. 87 T is base / clear urethane. The paint is about 7 years old and still gorgeous.

My new project is being painted right now in straight black single stage urethane with black and clear mixed together in the last few coats. This will make it super deep without giving it a "plastic coated" look that straight colors can have when they're cleared. It's an expensive job, but no worries about using single stage. Should be painted in about 2 weeks...

 

[SPOOLFOOL2]

Spoolfool not only buffs his car alot but he also innovates some pretty crafty items as well... You need to ask him.

He has, hands down, one of the best paint jobs I've ever seen on TR.

Thanks for the complements.
Actually, I only buff and wax it once a year, or more. Once I "invested" all the time into color sanding this thing, it has stayed cleaner, for longer. This is a 12 year old, single stage, acrylic enamel paint job. At the time of these photos, I hadn't buffed or waxed this car in 18 months. Don't think I had even washed it in 6 months. I Just use a car duster, detailer sprays and old terry cloth towels. I put about 1000 miles a year on this car.

Happy spooling...
Mike Barnard

 

[blackmonte]

I am thinking on getting mine done as well , are they a local shop?and any guess on how much to paint mine?

 

[turbo39151]

depends on the shop and how much work needs to be done to the car (body work- dents, dings, rust, etc..) How much work you do before hand (ie: stirpping the interior, weatherstrip, lights, molding,etc.) The more time you save the shop, the cheaper it will be. Expect quotes in the $5k range for a decent job. Also, don't beleive any shop that tells you it should take a few weeks. Plan for 4-6 months!

 

[blackmonte]

You want to hear a good one Midwest street rods in Plainfield told me $ 18,000 and would take a year!! I painted a few cars and used Dupont Centari it took me 3 months to do all the work and that was on cars that had a good base, my car is getting the checking on the rear quarters the rest of the car looks great, so I guess to do it right it would have to be stripped to the metal , epoxy primer , sealer, base , clear color sand man that's lots of work!!