replacement springs... ;(

[Turbo6Smackdown]

im lookin for replacement springs that DO NOT LOWER my car, but are a tad stiffer than stock. Cant spend more than 300 dollars for the set as a set of good eibachs are only 265.

 

[bosted86]

i rebuilt my front end with pst kit (springs) and have kirban variable rates on the back. i like it.

 

[turbobuickman]

I second the kirbans. Have em on the rear, stock height but a bit stiffer. Fronts are waiting to go in when the weather is nicer.

 

[phillyturbosix]

I did Moog cargo coils in the rear and Moog springs on the front. The ride is awesome and tight and I think it was 120 for both from and back! :biggrin:

 

[Gary Wells]

I also opted for the Kirban stock height front & rear springs, and I love them. Tad stiffer, excellent handling characteristics.

 

[phillyturbosix]

Just so you guys know Kirban springs are Moog

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

they are? noo **** i didnt know that. are you sure? and 120 bucks for 4 springs? what truck did THOSE fall of the back of... id probably get moog before kirbans, as he tends to jack up the price of some simple stuff, that he shouldnt. where does one acquire these moog springs at?

 

[novaderrik]

moog springs can be had at any parts store.
a good bet for stiffer springs might be to get springs for a similar car, but with a heavier engine.
like, say, a Monte SS or 442. not sure if they used the same springs, but i'm thinking that since a small block Chev is heavier than a Buick V6- even with the turbo- and an Olds 307 is heavier than a small block, they would either use slightly stiffer or taller springs to get the same stock ride height.
of course, the front of the car would be up in the air if you just threw them in, but cutting a half a coil or something would take care of that problem, and even stiffen it up a tad.
i'd bet that's what Kirban does with their springs..
of course, if you want to get adventurous- and can find a good parts guy willing to help you- you could look thru all the spring specs in the Moog catalog and find a spring that has the right diameter and spring rate you want at the installed height you want. i used a set of springs that were designed for a 55 Chev Nomad with a V8 in the front of my 71 Nova- but i had to chop like 3 coils to get the ride height right. what i ended up with was a spring with the same specs as a $150 Hotchkis spring, but for only $85 and a little bit of time.

 

[Gary Wells]

No, I don't think that Kirban buys and then cuts springs. The reason that I went with kirban is to avoid what you guys are doing right now, and that is guessing. Frank, (phillyturbosix) probably knows the correct #s.

 

[Gary Wells]

From threads that have been posted over the last couple of years, I think that these people are Kirban's supplier of coil springs. Doing a search on some of the other boards and here might prove productive

http://www.eatonsprings.com

 

[49-blues]

Phillyturbosix- what part number moogs did you use?

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

sent an email to eaton, (theyre right down the street from me, i had no idea) and where do i find moogs website at. i cant find it.

 

[novaderrik]

Moog is a part of the Federal Mogul conglomeration.
and i bet Eaton makes the Moog springs.. they make them for the oems, and probably made your stock springs. they also do custom springs at a pretty reasonable price.

 

[Silver Fox]

For those of you who have replacement springs and have replaced them yourself, I have some questions on the rears. I've replaced front springs, but never rears on a coil spring equipped car. I have read the factory service manual and my Chilton's manual on the process, but I am hoping you guys who have done this can clarify a few things for me. My main questions are will I need to disconnect the brake line on top of the axle, and does the upper control arm actually need to be disconnected?

In other words, if I just lower one side of the axle (rear of car on jack stands, floor jack one side of axle, after disconnecting the shock), will I have enough room to get the old spring out and the new spring in?

I appreciate any and all feedback you all can provide.

 

[Turbo Brian]

For those of you who have replacement springs and have replaced them yourself, I have some questions on the rears. I've replaced front springs, but never rears on a coil spring equipped car. I have read the factory service manual and my Chilton's manual on the process, but I am hoping you guys who have done this can clarify a few things for me. My main questions are will I need to disconnect the brake line on top of the axle, and does the upper control arm actually need to be disconnected?

In other words, if I just lower one side of the axle (rear of car on jack stands, floor jack one side of axle, after disconnecting the shock), will I have enough room to get the old spring out and the new spring in?

I appreciate any and all feedback you all can provide.

rear springs are a breeze. easy 20 minute job. jack the car up and support the frame. get it as high as you can so the differential can droop down fully. let the differential down. undo the lower shock bolt on one side. there should be enough play that you should be able to pop the old spring out and get the new one in. if there is not enough slack, put the jack under the diff to support the weight and undo the other shock bolt. slowly lower the jack. the springs should fall right out. if you undo both shocks, watch your driveshaft as it may contact your exhaust.

 

[Silver Fox]

Thanks Turbo Brian. New rear springs are on (per your advice), and I installed four new shocks on as well. My car still had the factory shocks on it...they would not even rebound when I compressed them. And the ride did not even seem that bad. I guess a test drive is in order.

Thanks again...

 

[madmax0]

If you take both shocks off be sure to keep from stretching the flex brake line.
DO NOT LET THE BRAKE LINE SUPPORT THE REAR END.

 

[Turbo6Smackdown]

no **** they fall right out? dam. i cant wait to change mine then! now i just need factory ride height springs that are stiffer.