there are quite a few fusible links throughout the harness a few are in the dash wiring where they are very hard to access these rarely fail or GM would not have put them in such a location the main ones are a few inches from the starter Positive terminal on the three red wires that lead to the wiring harness at the rear of the engine don't worry about them they are either good or bad almost all the wiring in the car is fed from these links and if EITHER of them has failed you will have no doubts LOTS of things will not be working think of them as air bags for electricity air bags only fail if you have an accident that you are not likely to drive away from or if someone that doesn't know what he is doing goes poking under the dash into the wiring same with the fusible links i have worked on many hundreds of GN's over the last couple decades and a problem with these is extremely rare unless some electrical genius like some of the gurus on this thread have been piddling around the car if these links worry you I would suggest that you worry more about godzilla eating your car since they both have about the same chance of happening and this silly thread is a great example of the downside of the internet as a source of information lots of misinformed people posting thoughts as if they have more than a clue what they are typing about EXAMPLE # ONE we have some that doubt Ohms law is it written in the constitution? no but it is a physical law that some very smart men have discovered that all relevant forces in the known universe adhere to truly knowledgeable people know that when something doesn't seem to obey it that their observation is somehow flawed case in point someone mentioned that they measured a wire and the drop did not agree with a voltage drop chart odds are that in their flawed analysis they failed to use a Kelvin style attachment to the wire under test and left the connectors in the equation slogn stated it well when he said "the devil is always in the connections" think about it we have technically challenged folks measuring voltage drops (some in the tenths of a volt) sometimes with soldered connections most voltage drop charts relate to copper or aluminum since those metals are the most practical to use from a cost/performance standpoint if low resistance is the goal solder is NOT a good conductor lead, tin and the other things we find in solder and some connectors can create a totally inaccurate measurement when trying to compare actual measurements to a wire resistance chart from a "good connection" standpoint there is no better connection than a "properly done high pressure crimp" where the metal is cold flowed solder is a substitute connection where a good mechanical connection is not practical or cost effective the research on this has been substantiated over and over again from the early days of the telephone and electrical power industries to the work done at NASA in the 60's to this day there is no electrical connection that surpasses a cold fused crimp for strength or conductivity try telling this to a car audio installer and his head will explode EXAMPLE # TWO someone mentioned the "skin effect" as a possible contributor to error since we are concerned with automobile applications here i think it is safe to assume that we are concerned with DC and not AC since skin effect only occurs with alternating current (the higher the frequency the more the affect) and not with DC this seems like a silly thing to even mention EXAMPLE#THREE someone mentioned that bigger wires helped ease the load on the alternator WOW! where do i even start with this one? if you want to make things easy for your alternator you need to put the smallest wire you can put on it that doesn't melt now i'm not saying thats going to make your electrical accessories work better but it will sure take a load off your alternators back a smaller wire (ie higher resistance) isolates the alternator from the load and serves to limit the current the alternator can produce at any given voltage output not a good idea but it illustrates the genius in that line of thought EXAMPLE# FOUR someone added up all the fuse sizes in the fuse box and somehow came to the conclusion that a nominal load in a GN could reach into the 170 amp range i once put a moderately modded GN with lots of accessories on a chassis dyno (to do this test on the street would have been impractical) and did measurements to see what kind of load really existed since the car was stationary i could do what was impractical when it was moving i had several people operate virtually every accessory while the car was running at 65 miles an hour coolant fan, high beams, wipers, AC blower, power seats, CD player with large amp, XP pump, window defogger, emergency flashers, power windows ect etc it was virtually impossible to exceed 105 amps no matter how hard we tried a simple understanding of how fuses work and how engineers select them for use in a circuit would easily clear up this silly notion need something to ponder? go to the fuse/breaker box in your house add up all the fuses and or breakers then check what size service you have just did my house for kicks total breaker amperage not counting the 200 amp main = 635 amps yet i have a 200 amp main breaker and service and the power company wire is appropriate for 200 amps i have lived in this house for 32 years with no electrical issues should i call the power company and recommend that they could ease the load on their nuclear plant if they ran wire sized for 600 amps to my house ??? from the comments on this ridiculous thread i could come up with a dozen more exampled of electrical misunderstandings/voodoo but i will leave things as is only to make a point the great thing about electricity is that is a useful servant for virtually all of us no matter if it is understood or not one thing is for sure there is virtually NOTHING about it that is not understood by some i don't claim to know everything either but if you are disagreeing with me about electricity there is almost virtually zero chance you are right................................RC