Replacing T-Top seals and it dont look good

blackbuick87

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2002
Basically the whole front part of the "roof" in back of the windshield is rusted to hell. This is only on the drivers side, the passenger side was fine.

I dont think the channels can be sanded, they look pretty bad. The very end of the A pillar was so rusted it was a pile of "rubble":mad: .
The bottom channel is rusted throughout its entirety and will have to be replaced. I have no idea how to remove it.

The front channel can be saved, and I have removed it. The Center section can be saved also, though it will need to be sandblasted.

How do I get that channel off, and what the hell is POR 15?

TIA
 
www.por15.com I found this using the "search" feature.:) I'm afraid to look at mine,if it's real bad maybe you could replace it with a hardtop from an NA regal? Otherwise, start looking for something to put your motor and tranny in.The rust belt is a wonderful place to live eh?
 
Dave I think you misunderstand me. This is the ONLY place on the car with rust. No hardtop. This car came from KY also, I brought it up to this hell.

I think with two parts I can get this fixed so it will last a a couple years at least. The car does not even get driven in the rain.
 
OK, now I see the channel is not removeable at all but part of the windshield frame. So I will just have to clean the crap out of it and POR-15 it. Any tips?
 
I have used POR 's products many times and was always pleased with the results.It is imperative that you follow the instructions and take no shortcuts or deviate from their recommendations and it works alot better than you would think,not your everyday paint.Does the metal have any strength left at all? If the rest of the car is clean then someday you just might have to change your roof.Rust is totally evil,can't count how many great cars I've seen fall victim.I'm not sure how or what on changing out a roof but it don't sound fun.Hope this works out for you somehow,good luck.
 
The T top center section has some small screws holding it in. it has some sealing material under it and has to be slowly pried off, little by little so you don't bend it. Don't sandblast the center section top piece because it is plastic coated, Tape it off and sandblast the rest. I would talk to a good body man about welding in a piece where your roof is rusted. I had to do a small rust hole on mine and we welded a piece of metal in there. Then POR 15 all the rest of it where the T top trim pieces go.
Tarey D.
 
THE JOYS OF TTOP OWNERSHIP

THIS MUST BE FOR ALL THE GUYS WHO THINK TTOP CARS ARE WORTH MORE THAN HARDTOPS. :rolleyes:

THIS IS A JOB FOR HOME DEPOT ELASOMERIC PIPE INSULATION. SEND THOSE STOCK, OVERPRICED, SEALS BACK! :D
 
Now Red Regal T we never said they are 'worth' more than a solid roof car.........just better :)

Although if worth is measured by the initial cost of something.....then they are because they cost more than a solid roof car.
 
After this repair I will be able to enjoy the wind through my hair, and my daughter can sit in the back and enjoy it like she does.

And all the hot chicks around here in T/A's can look at my rippling muscles:cool:

Kind of hard to do all that when your T-Tops are all glued in:eek:

Thanks for the tips. This is mostly surface rust, but at the end it is bad. I actually think a small amount of epoxy of fiberglass my work better there, anybody try this? Which product did you use?
 
SO YOU CAN TAKE OUT YOUR TTOPS TWO MONTHS OUT OF A YEAR...SO WHAT...:p AND FURTHERMORE.......WHO HAS HAIR? :eek:
 
Originally posted by Renthorin
Now Red Regal T we never said they are 'worth' more than a solid roof car.........just better :)

Although if worth is measured by the initial cost of something.....then they are because they cost more than a solid roof car.

AMAZINGLY,if you go to ANY of the car value sites,i.e kellybluebook,NADA etc the value goes higher instead of lower when you select T-roof option.:confused: :eek:
 
Originally posted by blackbuick87


Thanks for the tips. This is mostly surface rust, but at the end it is bad. I actually think a small amount of epoxy of fiberglass my work better there, anybody try this? Which product did you use?

Now that we have decided that T-tops are better, can someone help me with the original problem?

Thx
 
I just had the same problem on my 86, we pulled the trim off and there was a rust hole on the pass side just behind the windshield. my body guy cut out the section and welded in a new piece of metal( i cut a piece out of my doner 87 gn) and now its good as new. the doner car i cut the piece out of, it is a 180K michigan car, and WOW there was alot of rust! the floorboards are gone, rear quarters, windshield frame was heald together with butle. frame rail on pass side rear had rotted through. GOTTA LOVE THOES SALT TRUCKS!

Andy
 
Thanks for the insight Andy. I am waiting for my POR 15 to arrive, and my new top plate. I think I can stop it without any welding. I will probably just need to use adhesive on the very end to keep the seal attached where the rail rusted away for about three inches.

Dont tell me about MI salt trucks:mad: . Thats why I bought my car in KY:cool:
 
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