Runs REAL weak, have some weird things maybe you can help solve......PLEASE help

[fbodlovr]

PLEASE read everything as it will probably help you understand whats going on. I listed everything I know.

I have been having this problem for quite some time now, and this car is a project car right now. But, when we got the car it had a bad turbo on it. What I did was buy a ta 33 with a te61 center section, 36lb blue tops, ported intake, adj. fuel pressure regulator, scanmaster 2.1, walbro in tank pump, thrasher 92 chip that was programmed to the blue tops, 86-87 computer, new fuel injector harness(positive their all right), 86-87 coil, little plug adapter, base adapter, ignition module, spark plugs, plug wires, and IAT sensor.

Now, I havent got an 86-87 maf sensor, and I dont yet have the 86-87 igniton module and coil put on. BUT, I dont think it would cause this weird of an issue.

What happens is when you stand on the peddle, it just slowly revs up, but doesnt seem to go to redline(maybe it is, cant tell), and the turbo just isnt spooling up very high. I think we usually see something like 5psi. If we sit there and torque brake it, the turbo will only get up to about 1psi. I dont have an aftermarket torque converter, but I would think it would still roast the tires EITHER way. I am absolute positive the vacuum tubes are right, and the car sits at 16psi vacuum. Also, the fuel pressure sits at about 28psi when idling and goes up to about 36 when we rev it up. We lowered the fuel pressure way down but it doesnt seem to help any on performance, and for some reason just smells a little rich. I do have a fuel pressure gauge and boost gauge so you know that I am correct on readings. One other thing is that there are NO exhaust leaks anymore because we had the headers welded up. There is an exhaust leak, BUT it is right AFTER the cat. I dont think that would cause it either. Here is another thing that is odd. When we disconnected the TP sensor, the car idled higher, but seemed to act a little better. It didnt improve performance, but it just seemed smoother although idling faster. When we put the plug back on the TP sensor it idled down, and idled good but SOMEWHAT stumbly. Its hard to explain, but it idles good, but sounds like its a little......off. We disconnected the MAF sensor and nothing happeded, BUT as soon as I plugged it back in the car almost died, but idled out of it. THe car also has no backfire whatsoever in case your wondering if the cam might be screwed. There are also no codes being thrown. We also checked to see that all cylinders were firing and they are. That is all I can think of right now, so please help.

For gods sake, PLEASE, PLEASE someone help me on this. Im a buick owner for one year now and havent had a chance to take it out due to this stupid issue.

 

[BRAD_PADGETT]

What are ALL your scanmaster reading at idle and in park with the engine warmed up. Thanks-Brad

 

[turbo2nr]

Double and triple check the orientation of the "T" fitting in the boost control lines and all the hoses around that stuff. Maybe you have a bad acctuator? Try blowing air into it. It should be a sealed chamber.

You can find the pics of the "T" somewhere on www.gnttype.org

Check intake hose clamps, etc.....
But you'd hear the turbo spooling and blowing into the atmosphere if that was leaking. So doubt that.


I'll say that you mixed up the lines going from compressor cover, to "T" to the acctuator, or maybe loose rod, ??

 

[fbodlovr]

What are ALL your scanmaster reading at idle and in park with the engine warmed up. Thanks-Brad

Hey Brad, I will actually run and check them now, and will post them here in about an hour. PLEASE check back as Im really needing some help here.

 

[fbodlovr]

Double and triple check the orientation of the "T" fitting in the boost control lines and all the hoses around that stuff. Maybe you have a bad acctuator? Try blowing air into it. It should be a sealed chamber.

You can find the pics of the "T" somewhere on www.gnttype.org

Check intake hose clamps, etc.....
But you'd hear the turbo spooling and blowing into the atmosphere if that was leaking. So doubt that.


I'll say that you mixed up the lines going from compressor cover, to "T" to the acctuator, or maybe loose rod, ??

I actually put the adapter in right, which is also a Y. I know its right because I checked it and rechecked it. Also, Im not sure if the wastegate, or accuator, is good either. I tried moving the rod when it was off the car when I first got it, and I couldnt move it in or out. Seemed almost rock solid. But, it is closed on the turbo. Keep throwing out ideas PLEASE!!!!!!!!

 

[fbodlovr]

If it revs up real high at idle, but only revs up so far while actually driving it, couldnt mean it has low compression does it? Seems like that would be ok to me.

 

[fbodlovr]

Ok, I got those numbers. Here they are, and there are more than I thought:

Main screen at start up(after warm up and idle)
840-850 0.0
AF 07
L8 52-58
BAT 14.5(I know what this one is )
INT 128
BL 128
NPH 0(Maybe MPH?)
CLT 160
ATS 73-84
r 750-800
TPS .44(was only getting about 4.18 WOT while sitting in park)
IAC 73
cc 55-67
Nal 34

I hope this sheads some light onto something. This is also a thrasher chip, so I think some things are locked into certain values. I dont know, but PLEASE help again!!!!

I just noticed that the last one is a malfunction. I mentioned earlier that I unplugged it and plugged it back in while the car was running. Could this just be what caused it to pop up the malfunction???? I STILL dont think this would be what is causing the running really weak problem.

 

[turbo2nr]

Malfunction code 34.

 

[turbo2nr]

I'm still guessing the acctuator, puck, or boost lines. Very common and cheap to fix. I hope it's not something serious. I hate it when that happens.

Put some indicator on the turbo wastegate outlet, and see if the puck covers it completly when you bolt up the DP. Sounds like an open wastegate to me, or opening early.

 

[BRAD_PADGETT]

There are two issues here. The first is the IAC is way two high. Reset it to 20-30 at idle in park. The second is the MAL code 34-MAF sensor signal to low-Bad or unplugged MAF. If the MAF is connected you have a bad MAF. My advice is get a new LT1 with the translator and do not waste your time with remanufactured 85 or 87 one and you shoud be good to go. Do you have a copy of the Scanmaster instructions? I can send you one. Good luck- Brad

 

[turbo2nr]

Hold on, the IAC would have nothing to do with WOT.

He unplugged his MAF, that's why he has a code. Don't go shopping quite yet. You don't need a new MAF unless you really need a new MAF, or you are planning on running some 9s.

 

[fbodlovr]

I'm still guessing the acctuator, puck, or boost lines. Very common and cheap to fix. I hope it's not something serious. I hate it when that happens.

Put some indicator on the turbo wastegate outlet, and see if the puck covers it completly when you bolt up the DP. Sounds like an open wastegate to me, or opening early.

Well, I know its closed, and my dad was standing in front of the car when I was torque braking it to see if it would make some boost. He didnt say anything about it opening. Also, I dont know if you saw it or not in the first post, but when the actuator was off, i could not move the rod at all. Im not sure if that is normal or not. It wasnt going in or out for anything. Its on there tight enough that the puck is slammed shut.

Also, when you say boost lines, do you mean vacuum lines? We put a seperate hand held gauge on the vacuum lines, and when the car is running it sits at 16psi vacuum. I hope its nothing serious either, but I honestly dont think it is at this point, just something stupid that is illuding me. Got any other ideas?

 

[fbodlovr]

There are two issues here. The first is the IAC is way two high. Reset it to 20-30 at idle in park. The second is the MAL code 34-MAF sensor signal to low-Bad or unplugged MAF. If the MAF is connected you have a bad MAF. My advice is get a new LT1 with the translator and do not waste your time with remanufactured 85 or 87 one and you shoud be good to go. Do you have a copy of the Scanmaster instructions? I can send you one. Good luck- Brad

How do I reset the IAC? Im guessing its something that can actually be found on gnttype.org. The malfunction code MIGHT be from me unplugging it while the car was running. IM going to go undo the batter for a few minutes and start it back up and see what happens there.

I also dont have any instructions for the scanmaster. I would LOVE if you could send me a copy. I bought this off of a guy that supposedly only had it for a couple months, and then took his car to cottons to have I think a fast system installed.

One other thing, im going to do a compression check tonight to see if everything is ok, but do you guys think this could be a possibility at this point? It doesnt seem like it to me just because of what I have seen. It runs decent, and will rev way up in park, just not while under load. That is what is affecting the boost. Or is it because of the turbo not spooling up that is causing the engine to not rev up high enough while under load?????

PLEASE, more thoughts lol Keep'm comin :smile:

 

[tenright]

Ok here's my 2 cents....first off it seems a bit suspicious that your BLM and INT is 128 with the FP at 28 which is extremely low. Although your O2's are 850 or so which is a bit rich, again with fp at 28 thats odd. My car would studder and backfire with the pressure that low if it ran at all. You can check your wastegate puck very easily by removing the actuator and moving the puck manually to see if it hangs, although I doubt thats the problem you would get overboost with a sticky puck not no boost at all unless the puck was hung open. The actuator could very well be bad, but I would be more inclined to think you are starving the engine. FP should be up around 40 or so line off (static) most are even higher then that...between 42-45 line off. Again if I set mine below 38 my car would knock like crazy with any boost. Mines starts to really run like crap when I go below 38 line off. I just can't imagine my car even running with the FP at 28.....



T

 

[MoeJr]

I am gonna go off the wall here but is it possible the trans is stuck in 4th gear? Maybe the lock up solenoid has it locked all the time and is not allowing the trans to come out of high gear? Just a thought.

 

[turbo2nr]

Ok here's my 2 cents....first off it seems a bit suspicious that your BLM and INT is 128 with the FP at 28 which is extremely low. Although your O2's are 850 or so which is a bit rich, again with fp at 28 thats odd. My car would studder and backfire with the pressure that low if it ran at all. You can check your wastegate puck very easily by removing the actuator and moving the puck manually to see if it hangs, although I doubt thats the problem you would get overboost with a sticky puck not no boost at all unless the puck was hung open. The actuator could very well be bad, but I would be more inclined to think you are starving the engine. FP should be up around 40 or so line off (static) most are even higher then that...between 42-45 line off. Again if I set mine below 38 my car would knock like crazy with any boost. Mines starts to really run like crap when I go below 38 line off. I just can't imagine my car even running with the FP at 28.....


T

.The stock regulator was around that at idle, so that could be possible to have good BLM numbers there. . You can't read A/F with the narrow band O2 sensor at idle, so saying you saw 850 at idle means absolutly nothing at all.

My ATR DP got stuck in the open position. Many, many have

 

[cool 84 2]

Plugged cat? Internally collapsed stock crossover?

 

[fbodlovr]

Ok here's my 2 cents....first off it seems a bit suspicious that your BLM and INT is 128 with the FP at 28 which is extremely low. Although your O2's are 850 or so which is a bit rich, again with fp at 28 thats odd. My car would studder and backfire with the pressure that low if it ran at all. You can check your wastegate puck very easily by removing the actuator and moving the puck manually to see if it hangs, although I doubt thats the problem you would get overboost with a sticky puck not no boost at all unless the puck was hung open. The actuator could very well be bad, but I would be more inclined to think you are starving the engine. FP should be up around 40 or so line off (static) most are even higher then that...between 42-45 line off. Again if I set mine below 38 my car would knock like crazy with any boost. Mines starts to really run like crap when I go below 38 line off. I just can't imagine my car even running with the FP at 28.....



T

I will go back out tomorrow afternoon and see what it is line off, and readjust to about 40 or 42. I do remember though when I went close to that I beleive, it started stuttering badly like it was getting too MUCH fuel! So, I dont know, I will try it again and see what happens. As to the actuator, Im almost positive it is slammed shut. When I had the actuator off of the car the rod wouldnt move in or out of the round main part on it, one bit. It was rock solid. I will have my dad torque brake it and I will move the puck manually to see what happens.

 

[fbodlovr]

I am gonna go off the wall here but is it possible the trans is stuck in 4th gear? Maybe the lock up solenoid has it locked all the time and is not allowing the trans to come out of high gear? Just a thought.

The owner of Nos4gn.com told me there was a plug on the side of the tranny that is connected to this and that the selinoid could be bad, and if its plugged in to try and unplug it and see what happens. I do know that the car shifts once and probably a second time. It gets going maybe 20 to 25 mph before it shifts, and its weak getting there also. I will try to look at this also and see if unplugging it or if its unplugged, plugging it back in, will do.

 

[fbodlovr]

Plugged cat? Internally collapsed stock crossover?

Well, i dont thin the cat is plugged mainly because the brace that holds it up is broken, and it is hanging a little. RIGHT after the cat where it bolts to the rest of the exhaust, has a leak right there.

Also, what do you mean by an internally collapsed stock crossover??? Ive never heard of that.

EVERYONE, keep the suggestions comin NO MATTER WHETHER YOU THINK THEY ARE USELESS OR NOT!!!!! Need all the help I can get. You guys are all we have. You guys tell me to look at something, ill look at it.