Stalling out?

B

boostedyards86

Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2010
Car keeps stalling out on me. Cleaned the IAC, and throttle body. Reset the IAC multiple times and keep playing with the throttle blade set screw. If i can get the thing to idle right then when i put it into drive it stalls. When i set it to idle in drive right then in park and neutral its at 2k rpm. Grrr besides this the car runs great. just soo confused. 86-87 ecm will be here soon to let me hook up a scan master and see whats going on in more detail. Any thoughts until then?
 
Check all your Vac line, even the ones in back of the intake, MAP sensor to intake. Are you going by the stock RPM gauge or aftermarket? Do you have a Boost/Vac aftermarket gauge? Helps you out if you have a vac leak by gauge reading up/down never steady.
 
boostedyards86 said:
Car keeps stalling out on me. Cleaned the IAC, and throttle body. Reset the IAC multiple times and keep playing with the throttle blade set screw. If i can get the thing to idle right then when i put it into drive it stalls. When i set it to idle in drive right then in park and neutral its at 2k rpm. Grrr besides this the car runs great. just soo confused. 86-87 ecm will be here soon to let me hook up a scan master and see whats going on in more detail. Any thoughts until then?
Click to expand...


Set your idle back down into the 1K range. Look/listen for vacuum leaks after the MAF sensor.

One way I've found leaks is to buy a can of carburetor cleaner and start spraying spots around the top of the engine and post MAF intake track. You don't have to spray for a second or two and when you hit a leak you'll hear the engine rev up.
 
stock tach currently,i do have a cheap vac/boost gauge. it will read a solid 15in hg then when the idle starts bouncing so does the vacuum.
 
sounds like a vac leak, Most of the time it's the line in the back of the intake, so much heat and wear on that line. It's goes to MAP, then Tees or Y's into the hardlines in back of the intake. I think you could also take off one by one each hose on the Vac block, with your a finger cover the Vac block hole. If the Idle lowers the leak might be in that Vac line route,should be anyway. IMO

Hope this helps.
 
started going over the vac lines last night. they are pretty old and falling apart. replaced some but i still am not sold on it. however when i was jumping the aldl port to reset the iac i did get code 34. which i believe is maf low voltage.
 
boostedyards86 said:
started going over the vac lines last night. they are pretty old and falling apart. replaced some but i still am not sold on it. however when i was jumping the aldl port to reset the iac i did get code 34. which i believe is maf low voltage.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure what you mean "still am not sold on it". Post MAF vacuum leaks really do need to be addressed. You might have a bad MAF sensor, but the leaks really do need to be fixed so the ECM knows how much air the engine is getting.
 
Mr gasket sells a slicone vac line kit, I used this to replace all my vac lines with clamps. Much stronger then rubber lines, just replaced whatever else you didn't change.
 
replaced every single line. didn't change anything. the maf code went away. however it has a 22 code now. gotta check that one out.
 
Going by sunpro scan tool manual code 22 is
Code 22
Throttle position sensor
(TPS) - signal voltage is
low during engine idle.
OR
Fuel cutoff relay circuit -
open or shorted to ground.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

M
Stalling at idle (D) with foot on brake
Replies
13
Views
894
TireFryer
TireFryer
L
Lock up torque converter won’t unlock
Replies
4
Views
812
salvageV6
salvageV6
Mnt86SS
On the struggle bus
2
Replies
22
Views
2K
vicious6
vicious6
D
Idle Surge And Stalling IAC jumping around.
2
Replies
21
Views
3K
Dylan4570
D
M
Stalls only during burnout
2
Replies
20
Views
2K
Chuck Leeper
Chuck Leeper
Top