Starting over with new engine..a little help?

I am looking at a shine new Chrome oil pan, bit it says it fits 75-83 and needs first design oil pick-up. My new engine is an 84. Did they change oil pick-ups?
 
Chrome is very pretty but it keeps heat in. As far as the pickup tube get one for the 84 turbo car. It has a .5" ID and will suck more oil up. The earlier ones can't supply as much oil because of a smaller diameter.
 
Thanks for the heads up. Are the external dimensions close? There is a pretty tight fit between the steering rack and a cross member. Junk yard or internet? Good source?
 
I'd start with a stock pan on the block and see how it fits first. I don't think the pan design was ever changed except for the bolt holes to work for the later engine design. One other trick is to use a burr in the block and round the corners some inside the oiling passages. Sharp corners cut oil pressure down and you don't want that to happen.
 
Pulled another newbie mistake. bought a pair of headers from "windmill" without discussing turbo vs non turbo headers. Guess the name should have tipped me off :rolleyes: My mistake, not too much $ thankfully. Will the non turbo side bolt on to my NA motor? The flange seems a little different. Would you recommend having the turbo side modified for a NA motor, or just start from scratch. Seems like every time I try to save money, I step in it!
 
I've got a set of Hookers that may work for you if you want to try them. They are shortys so they may fit but they're made for a Regal chasis.
 
Yes, Im interested in the hookers. What do you think about the Stock Turbo headers, would they fit, or work if modified? If not the hookers might work, I am going to have a shop do it right.
The drivers side currently exhausts towards the rear, and the passengers exit toward the front of the car. Is this standard for buicks, or has this been modified?
 
Pics would be very helpful at this point I think. Here's a pic of what the headers look like. They're a shorty design so ground clearence shouldn't be an issue for you and the flanges are really thick so it reduces warping issues.:cool:
 

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charlief1 said:
Pics would be very helpful at this point I think. Here's a pic of what the headers look like. They're a shorty design so ground clearence shouldn't be an issue for you and the flanges are really thick so it reduces warping issues.:cool:
Click to expand...

holy crap charlie........ did you swap the flanges on your hookers?

I have the same hookers but kept the ball flanges?

A.j.
 
dr_frankenstein said:
holy crap charlie........ did you swap the flanges on your hookers?

I have the same hookers but kept the ball flanges?

A.j.
Click to expand...

Nope. It's the closest pic I could find to give him some idea of what they looked like. Mine do have the ball flange which is a much better seal than the flat flanges Aj.
 
Thanks you both for you help. Maybe you could clear up a question: left drivers side exits toward the rear, but the passengers side exits to the front by the engine mount. Clearance is an issue with the starter, so there is no room to exit to the rear. The Hookers look like they both exit to the rear, is that correct?
The headers I bought are stock turbo headers, i think. The one that doesnt have the turbo adapter looks like it would bolt to the passenger side and exit forward, but Im not sure about if the flange would work. What do you guys think would work?
 
triumph/buickv6 said:
Thanks you both for you help. Maybe you could clear up a question: left drivers side exits toward the rear, but the passengers side exits to the front by the engine mount. Clearance is an issue with the starter, so there is no room to exit to the rear. The Hookers look like they both exit to the rear, is that correct?
The headers I bought are stock turbo headers, i think. The one that doesnt have the turbo adapter looks like it would bolt to the passenger side and exit forward, but Im not sure about if the flange would work. What do you guys think would work?
Click to expand...

the hookers will clear the starter, there designed as a turbo replacement part.

id unload your turbo ones, and either shoot for hedmans or hookers.

or dig for a set of regular cast manifolds. for a dual rear manifold system you need dauntless 225 jeep pass side manifold and stock regal on drivers side.

A.j.
 
I will try and get a picture of the starter clearance tonight. I just added an avitar of the car...well, not actually my car. It was made for a V8 but I cant even get my hand past the starter.
 
Do you have a stock starter or a mini? I think the mini would work much better for you and one off a SBC for a 153 tooth flywheel works just fine. I've got one saved in my evilbay stuff if you want a link for it. Less than $100 shipped to.
 
I have no idea if stock or mini. would love to have a smaller starter for clearance. Do you know the dimensions of both and I can measure tonight. Also the 'stuff' about the flywheel...way over my head:rolleyes: Bottom line, will it work with stock 4.1?
 
It will work no problem and it will spin the engine faster as well. A starter off a Chevy small block out of a car is a 153 tooth starter and is the same as the Buick starter. Simple up grade for sure. I've got one here and it weighs about 10 pounds so it's lighter as well.
 
I`m getting a mini starter too. Look around on ebay and look at the weight... some are lighter than others(make sure its a GM 153 tooth).
 
Looks like the ministarter might work with the Hooker headers. I need to get this finished ... last night I dreamed I ported and polished the heads with my dremmel!.
 
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