Stock coil to distributor conversion checklist

[325DR]

From what I have gathered, the following is required (some info from turbo_canuc's posts in this stage 2 forum thread http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/st...t-thanks-cal-dan.html?highlight=distributor):

- pull the coil + module, cam sensor and msd dis4 box
- order a distributor (such as msd billett, pn# MSD-8551, $346.88)
- order a set of wires (such as pn#MSD-31199 $87.88)
- order an msd coil (such as pn#MSD-8261 $139.88)
- order MSD box (such as 7al2plus - pn#MSD-7222 $542.88)
- order dead-end connector plug which bolts to the harness where the stock ignition module used to go (available from cal hartline)
- order a jumper that plugs into the cam sensor plug and the distributor
- POSSIBLY have BHJ balancer relucter ring moved
- POSSIBLY modify the IAC sensor so that it doesn't interfere with the dist. cap
- modify A/C bracket if still being used
- POSSIBLY modify tensioner if factory unit is being used
- POSSIBLY need to modify inlet pipe
- locktite the rotor screws in
- cut off 5 of the 6 reluctor tabs on the distributor shaft to give a cam signal, plug it in, then point it at #1 while the engine was at 25*, before tdc.
- verify timing with a light

Is this all correct for a 109 motor? Is a modification to the BHJ balancers required? Will this (distributor setup) work with a GEN1 BS3?

Thanks.

 

[S2V6RACER]

E-mail sent.

 

[HighPSI]

(snip)
- order a jumper that plugs into the cam sensor plug and the distributor

This is now included with the dead end connector plug

(snip)
Is this all correct for a 109 motor?

That about covers it, other than you will have to move the Coolant Temp Sensor to the top of the intake and will probably have to ditch the "S" shaped bypass hose. If you don't have AC, things get real simple.

(snip)Is a modification to the BHJ balancers required?

Not needed. But may allow for a slightly better ignition strategy.

(snip)Will this (distributor setup) work with a GEN1 BS3?

It should. Jason White and I tried briefly to get his running. Now, I have a couple of ideas why his didn't work and would be willing to work with you if you have problems.

 

[325DR]

E-mail sent.

Hi Ted. Please resend, I had an old email address registered with my account on here. The new one is up. Thanks.

 

[325DR]

Hi Cal thanks for your reply. I will be in touch if I decide to move forward with the conversion. If you can think of anything else that may need to be changed, please post it here. Thanks again.

 

[Dusty Bradford]

- cut off 5 of the 6 reluctor tabs on the distributor shaft to give a cam signal, plug it in, then point it at #1 while the engine was at 25*, before tdc.

There's a few details to pay attention too when you do this. When you get to this point someone on the board or Cal can walk you through it.

I prefer putting the distributor in and determining which post I want to be #1 and going from there. It's much easier to phase the rotor when #1 is facing the front of the car.

 

[S2V6RACER]

Hi Ted. Please resend, I had an old email address registered with my account on here. The new one is up. Thanks.

Resent.

 

[Louie L.]

Save yourself some money and buy a Crane Hi6 and coil. About 1/4 the size of the MSD unit, no chips to buy and just as strong output wise. There are quite a few of us running this set up with great success.

 

[Jeff Rand]

Check with this supplier on the MSD parts. I picked up a new MSD distributor for $304 shipped.
Jeff

Seller Information: hptrucks
hptrucks@bellsouth.net



Transaction ID: 4R286771RR1709021 Placed on Oct. 20, 2006
Item # Item Title Qty Price Subtotal
270041315667 MSD PRO-BILLET DISTRIBUTOR BUICK V6 3.8L EVEN FIRE 8551
1 $304.95 USD $304.95 USD


Shipping & Handling
via Other (see description)
(includes any seller handling fees) : $0.00 USD
Shipping Insurance (included) : --


Total: $304.95 USD

 

[325DR]

Save yourself some money and buy a Crane Hi6 and coil. About 1/4 the size of the MSD unit, no chips to buy and just as strong output wise. There are quite a few of us running this set up with great success.

Louie do you use the HI-6 or HI-6R. Also do you use the rotary dials on the unit for the 2-step and then use the ECU for the rev limiter? I noiced that the HI-6 only has one limiter and it is only activated when one of the wires has power which makes me think that is only for a 2-step.

 

[HighPSI]

Louie uses the XFI for his 2 step

 

[ttypewhite]

- cut off 5 of the 6 reluctor tabs on the distributor shaft to give a cam signal, plug it in, then point it at #1 while the engine was at 25*, before tdc.
- verify timing with a light

Does anyone have a pic of this? What are the reluctor tabs?

 

[Dusty Bradford]

When you take the cap off the distributor you will see them. They are attached to the shaft.

You can take a pair of wire pliers or vice-grips and break them off one at a time.

Be sure you know the procedure to go through and figure out which tab to keep before breaking any off.

 

[S2V6RACER]

Distributor setup

Here is a good read and pictures of the distributor and mods to be done with it. There may be some other tricks the XFI can do that I am not aware of, but this should be a good read anyways.

http://www.hawaiian50.com/IPU__Setup_with_a_Crank_Trigger.pdf

 

[HighPSI]

Be sure you know the procedure to go through and figure out which tab to keep before breaking any off.

With a B2B FAST you can just leave the tabs on the distributor and leave it unplugged.

On the Classic SEFI FAST, you want to leave the tab that comes in AFTER #1 TDC (0-100 degrees ATDC).

With the XFI it doesn't matter which tab, although I like to leave the tab that comes in BTDC (20-120 degrees BTDC). If you've moved the Crank reluctor to 50 degrees, set the cam signal at least 10 degrees before that (60-170 degrees BTDC)

Once you're finished you should still verify everything with a timing light.

 

[325DR]

Just getting ready to get this setup finally and am looking for some help. A friend of mine is helping me and told me that I need to put a pin in "X3" in the BS3 harness and connect that pin to the "points wire" coming out of the ignition box. Ok, now I need to find a pin that will fit in that connector. Where the heck do I get that?

Another thing I can't figure out, is how put the distributor in so that I can determine the correct tab to keep. I would like #1 to be pointing towards the front of the car (as Dusty suggested), so when I drop the distrib in, do I put it in so that the reluctor tab aligns perfectly with the sensor inside for the cam synch signal (Ill call it the "cam sensor")? If thats the case, then how do I phase the rotor so that #1 on the cap lines up perfectly with the rotor? When I twist the cap, the whole distributor housing moves, which also moves the "cam sensor" inside. The rotor doesn't move independently from the "cam sensor", it's all locked together!

Then what do I need to do in the BS3 for the "crank reference" angle? Does that need to be changed, or does anything else?

Thanks guys, I hope to get this figured out! :smile:

 

[S2V6RACER]

Just getting ready to get this setup finally and am looking for some help. A friend of mine is helping me and told me that I need to put a pin in "X3" in the BS3 harness and connect that pin to the "points wire" coming out of the ignition box. Ok, now I need to find a pin that will fit in that connector. Where the heck do I get that?

Another thing I can't figure out, is how put the distributor in so that I can determine the correct tab to keep. I would like #1 to be pointing towards the front of the car (as Dusty suggested), so when I drop the distrib in, do I put it in so that the reluctor tab aligns perfectly with the sensor inside for the cam synch signal (Ill call it the "cam sensor")? If thats the case, then how do I phase the rotor so that #1 on the cap lines up perfectly with the rotor? When I twist the cap, the whole distributor housing moves, which also moves the "cam sensor" inside. The rotor doesn't move independently from the "cam sensor", it's all locked together!

Then what do I need to do in the BS3 for the "crank reference" angle? Does that need to be changed, or does anything else?

Thanks guys, I hope to get this figured out! :smile:

PM SENT

 

[1BADTT]

Subscribing...popcorn anybody ?

 

[MAX PSI]

Just getting ready to get this setup finally and am looking for some help. A friend of mine is helping me and told me that I need to put a pin in "X3" in the BS3 harness and connect that pin to the "points wire" coming out of the ignition box. Ok, now I need to find a pin that will fit in that connector. Where the heck do I get that?

Another thing I can't figure out, is how put the distributor in so that I can determine the correct tab to keep. I would like #1 to be pointing towards the front of the car (as Dusty suggested), so when I drop the distrib in, do I put it in so that the reluctor tab aligns perfectly with the sensor inside for the cam synch signal (Ill call it the "cam sensor")? If thats the case, then how do I phase the rotor so that #1 on the cap lines up perfectly with the rotor? When I twist the cap, the whole distributor housing moves, which also moves the "cam sensor" inside. The rotor doesn't move independently from the "cam sensor", it's all locked together!

I can't help you on the pin outs For the BS3. But on the rotor phasing I removed the roll pin between the relucter wheel and the distributor shaft then drilled and tapped the wheel for a 8-32 set screw. Be sure to use locktite so it can't back out. And don't over tighten it cause it will crack it.

Then what do I need to do in the BS3 for the "crank reference" angle? Does that need to be changed, or does anything else?

Again I don't know the BS3 that well. But with the XFI I marked the balancer say at 24 degrees BTDC put a timing light on it set my timing map so it idled at 24 degrees then checked it with the timing light. Then I kept changing the crank referance angle till it matched the 24 degrees. Caution be sure your balancer is marked correctally.

I also run the Crane box 6R and use it for the 2-step and the XFI for top end limiter.

Thanks guys, I hope to get this figured out! :smile:

Hope this helps

 

[MAX PSI]

Just getting ready to get this setup finally and am looking for some help. A friend of mine is helping me and told me that I need to put a pin in "X3" in the BS3 harness and connect that pin to the "points wire" coming out of the ignition box. Ok, now I need to find a pin that will fit in that connector. Where the heck do I get that?

Another thing I can't figure out, is how put the distributor in so that I can determine the correct tab to keep. I would like #1 to be pointing towards the front of the car (as Dusty suggested), so when I drop the distrib in, do I put it in so that the reluctor tab aligns perfectly with the sensor inside for the cam synch signal (Ill call it the "cam sensor")? If thats the case, then how do I phase the rotor so that #1 on the cap lines up perfectly with the rotor? When I twist the cap, the whole distributor housing moves, which also moves the "cam sensor" inside. The rotor doesn't move independently from the "cam sensor", it's all locked together!

I can't help you on the pin outs For the BS3. But on the rotor phasing I removed the roll pin between the relucter wheel and the distributor shaft then drilled and tapped the wheel for a 8-32 set screw. Be sure to use locktite so it can't back out. And don't over tighten it cause it will crack it.

Then what do I need to do in the BS3 for the "crank reference" angle? Does that need to be changed, or does anything else?

Again I don't know the BS3 that well. But with the XFI I marked the balancer say at 24 degrees BTDC put a timing light on it set my timing map so it idled at 24 degrees then checked it with the timing light. Then I kept changing the crank referance angle till the 24 degree mark lined up. Caution be sure your balancer/pointer is marked correctally.

I also run the Crane box 6R and use it for the 2-step and the XFI for top end limiter.

Thanks guys, I hope to get this figured out! :smile:

Hope this helps