Stock motor advice needed

[Flyin Brian]

So I have my stroker motor apart and have not picked a direction to follow with the rebuild and I want to drive the car so I bought a 47000 mile stock long block from someone on this forum. My plan is to spend minimal money on this motor and just get it in the car and get it running so I can drive it. The motor came from a running car but sat for a couple of years. I have removed the oil pan and front cover and see no problems. Still has the stock timing gear setup etc. So at a minimum I am going to replace the front and rear main seals and the timing set.
What else should I do?
Should I get a leak down tester to be sure the headgaskets are still ok?
Should I do anything to the oil pump/front cover?
Stock cam and lifters look great so I am not changing those.
Not looking to run really fast or beat on this motor, just want to be able to drive my car.
I appreciate your input.
Thanks,
Brian

 

[TURBOELKY]

I would throw a set of bearings in it while it's apart. I like to tinker, so I would probably modify the front cover and new gaskets on everything. Take rockers off and compression check, put it all together and enjoy. It's a snowball effect once you start getting carried away. What's wrong with your stroker motor?

 

[GNTIM]

Valve springs and seals

 

[Flyin Brian]

I would throw a set of bearings in it while it's apart. I like to tinker, so I would probably modify the front cover and new gaskets on everything. Take rockers off and compression check, put it all together and enjoy. It's a snowball effect once you start getting carried away. What's wrong with your stroker motor?

I will take a look at the rear main bearing when replacing the seal. May pull cap on # 6 rod to see that bearing.

Stroker motor blew a head gasket. Going to re-build it. Heads are done but will need pistons, maybe rods, new roller cam etc.
Just want to run the stock motor while building the stroker right. Stroker will need machine work etc.

 

[Nick Micale]

One thing I would not do is replace the rear main seal unless you can see evidence of it leaking by oil streaks on the flexplate.

What I would do is install a good timing chain set and oil seal, but not mess with the oil pump if it has good oil pressure.

A good idea is also to remove the pan and clean out 30 years of crud that has accumulated there. Check a rod bearing or 2 is easy.

Drive the car with the stock valve springs as you do not need to put more load on the cam and lifter which could possibly cause issues.

I have seen many GN's with 150K miles on the original engine running fine, so if you do not "beat" on it, you should enjoy many more cruising miles!

 

[Flyin Brian]

One thing I would not do is replace the rear main seal unless you can see evidence of it leaking by oil streaks on the flexplate.

What I would do is install a good timing chain set and oil seal, but not mess with the oil pump if it has good oil pressure.

A good idea is also to remove the pan and clean out 30 years of crud that has accumulated there. Check a rod bearing or 2 is easy.

Drive the car with the stock valve springs as you do not need to put more load on the cam and lifter which could possibly cause issues.

I have seen many GN's with 150K miles on the original engine running fine, so if you do not "beat" on it, you should enjoy many more cruising miles!

I am not sure about the condition of the rear main seal. Motor was spotless in that area so it had clearly been washed. I just assume it leaked.

 

[bison]

The last shortblock I bought used off of here was a pile of shit. #3 main was cracked and had a couple other issues. I'd pull off the center caps and have a look. This is standard procedure for any used engine I buy these days. I want to see the cap mating surfaces and I will commonly want to see at least the upper half of one rod


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Flyin Brian]

I pulled # 3 main and it does not look too bad but I am no expert and the motors I usually take apart have serious problems.
If I pull # 2 do I have to re-set the thrust bearing?
I will look at number 6 rod bearing as well.

 

[Flyin Brian]

# 6 rod not perfect either. Seen much worse.

 

[Flyin Brian]

View attachment 282920

 

[Flyin Brian]

 

[Flyin Brian]

 

[MCH86GN]

I bought a running motor and unfortunately I didn't have the tools or know how to look at the mains or rods. I wish I had, because the block was ruined and I ended up spending a few bucks clean it up and swapping out the heads and intake.

 

[TexasT]

Anything used is a crapshoot unless you know the history of it. As above, my engine has almost 160k. It does have a neoprene rear seal and new timing set that it got about 60k and I'm sure it needs another timing set.
You can roll the dice and put it in and run it or do what you. Said above with some new seals and such.
I'd run it. It could go around the block or another 100k . Like I said it is a roll of the dice.
Some times you're the windshield, sometimes you're the bug.

 

[Flyin Brian]

I'm gonna run it. Will do a new front seal and timing set and that is it. I primed it on the stand and oil flow looked good.