Subs direction
- Thread starter nwarky
- Start date
turbo nasty
Turbo Dojo / MNTR
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2001
subs facing you(mags toward rear of car.
definitely have the subs facing you. Unless you cant give it the space it needs in front of it. Dont put it right up against something or it won't sound good and will most likely cause an annoying vibration. If youve got the space, have them face you otherwise face them upwards
I've had very good luck with boxes I've built for TA's and Z's with the subs facing up from the deep pocket behind the package shelf. I've done several different boxes, both sealed or ported for 4 8's, 2-4 10's, 1-3 12's, 1 15 and 1 18. Works great as long as you do not get too close to the hatch.
I agree with those saying to face the speaker "up" or "back" (although back is hard to do in the TTA)... When facing you, there is less distance between you and the direct sound wave eminating from the speaker. What's called "cabin gain" - is a function of the subwoofer placement and wavelength's path through the car before it reaches your ear. In most applications (with the exception of complete SQ bass i.e. aperiodic, small/dampened sealed), you are better off allowing the bass "wave" to bounce off as many surfaces as you can before it reaches your ears. Hence, you'll see gains at certain (typically the desired) frequencies when the sub is facing away from you or up into the rear glass in your F-body.
Hope this helps.
Erik
Hope this helps.
Erik
just a nuder 6
Member
- Joined
- Jun 25, 2004
ill say this once
use a ported box
sealed boxes suck!!!!
if the box is ported it doesnt matter which way the subs are pointed
we use rockford 10" p3 subs they are good subs that play nice and low not as clear as a jl w-3 but less money
also on a ported box you'll only need half the power of a sealed box to run the subs
build the box as square as possible if you go with our set up we run 2 on the 10" p3's in a 4 cu. ft. box. the port is 6x6 and 16 inches long these are the recommendations from rockford themselves. the amp is a 5 channel ppi pcx 5800 the sub channel is 400 watts. in jams hard it hard to believe the a pair of 10's get down like that.
use a ported box
sealed boxes suck!!!!
if the box is ported it doesnt matter which way the subs are pointed
we use rockford 10" p3 subs they are good subs that play nice and low not as clear as a jl w-3 but less money
also on a ported box you'll only need half the power of a sealed box to run the subs
build the box as square as possible if you go with our set up we run 2 on the 10" p3's in a 4 cu. ft. box. the port is 6x6 and 16 inches long these are the recommendations from rockford themselves. the amp is a 5 channel ppi pcx 5800 the sub channel is 400 watts. in jams hard it hard to believe the a pair of 10's get down like that.
I have to disagree with just a nuder...
Sealed boxes are great in many applications. In your f-body, space is of major constraint, especially if you still want to store your t-tops in the hatch cavity. A sealed box can sound great if built right, with no air leaks and proper bracing. Ported boxes are more efficient, naturally. But it's possible to play a speaker as loud in a sealed box (assuming you can build the box big enough). A speaker's SPL limit is a function of cone area x displacement/stroke, and that limit can be equally reached in a sealed or ported box. The only difference is at what frequency you reach your SPL limit. Physics, plain and simple. Speakers are mechanical devices, and follow those rules of physics just like anything else.
And as far as box shape goes, it has been repeated over and over and over that it's best NOT to build the box as square as possible. The standing waves created from the back wave of the woofer create artificial harmonics and can "tweak" your speaker's expected frequency response in a given enclosure. If you desire "one note" bass, you may desire the bump in your frequency response that those standing waves create (assuming you actually know that frequency and tune to it.)
And yes, again, it DOES matter which way the box is pointed, sealed or ported. A subwoofer system in anechoic space (large room with no "live" walls to reflect the sound and create nodes of peaks and valleys) will sound the same no matter what direction it's pointed. But in a car, ANY CAR, there is something called TRANSFER FUNCTION, wherein the vehicle's internal airspace and shape play a big factor in how much your bass/sub-bas output is extended, and at what frequencies.
Sorry if this got a little technical. I just want to stop the baseless drivel being spewed. This is why I enjoyed working in car stereo for so long. People who do not understand the physics involved in desgining speaker enclosures and how they will interact in a specific vehicle or environment make claims based on "experience" or subjective opinion. I have been able to take customers from good to great by simply tuning and tweaking their current setup. Books by Vance Dickason and a simple MECP installer guide book can do a lot for someone interested in car audio who may actually want to learn something before they go talking crap.
To answer the question again to the original poster - if you'd like help with your custom enclosure, please email me direct at erikquick@yahoo.com. I have done enough f-body subwoofer systems to help you run down your options based on your needs/wants.
Thanks!
Erik
Sealed boxes are great in many applications. In your f-body, space is of major constraint, especially if you still want to store your t-tops in the hatch cavity. A sealed box can sound great if built right, with no air leaks and proper bracing. Ported boxes are more efficient, naturally. But it's possible to play a speaker as loud in a sealed box (assuming you can build the box big enough). A speaker's SPL limit is a function of cone area x displacement/stroke, and that limit can be equally reached in a sealed or ported box. The only difference is at what frequency you reach your SPL limit. Physics, plain and simple. Speakers are mechanical devices, and follow those rules of physics just like anything else.
And as far as box shape goes, it has been repeated over and over and over that it's best NOT to build the box as square as possible. The standing waves created from the back wave of the woofer create artificial harmonics and can "tweak" your speaker's expected frequency response in a given enclosure. If you desire "one note" bass, you may desire the bump in your frequency response that those standing waves create (assuming you actually know that frequency and tune to it.)
And yes, again, it DOES matter which way the box is pointed, sealed or ported. A subwoofer system in anechoic space (large room with no "live" walls to reflect the sound and create nodes of peaks and valleys) will sound the same no matter what direction it's pointed. But in a car, ANY CAR, there is something called TRANSFER FUNCTION, wherein the vehicle's internal airspace and shape play a big factor in how much your bass/sub-bas output is extended, and at what frequencies.
Sorry if this got a little technical. I just want to stop the baseless drivel being spewed. This is why I enjoyed working in car stereo for so long. People who do not understand the physics involved in desgining speaker enclosures and how they will interact in a specific vehicle or environment make claims based on "experience" or subjective opinion. I have been able to take customers from good to great by simply tuning and tweaking their current setup. Books by Vance Dickason and a simple MECP installer guide book can do a lot for someone interested in car audio who may actually want to learn something before they go talking crap.
To answer the question again to the original poster - if you'd like help with your custom enclosure, please email me direct at erikquick@yahoo.com. I have done enough f-body subwoofer systems to help you run down your options based on your needs/wants.
Thanks!
Erik
just a nuder 6
Member
- Joined
- Jun 25, 2004
well ok
nice to know im a krap talker
i was just simply stating a opinion
and giving a combo that will work
i am not going to get into a pissing contest with or try to measure the perverbial size of our audio brains
at the risk being rude and of course never meaning to
i dont care what you think i am doing or not doing this was simply an opinion and a suggestion on a combo i know works because we have installed it in several g body and a similar set up in many f body cars.
so that being said
to the origional poster you have my opinion take it for what it is worth to you
to you... krap talker
if you would like to disagree fine i am well aware that sealed vs. ported has long been a heated debate but lets try and save the name calling for the pre schoolers and stay on the subject
i will soon post a soubd bit of the set up so all of you car hear it and tell me what you think i will also have db levels from the next crank it up in january
nice to know im a krap talker
i was just simply stating a opinion
and giving a combo that will work
i am not going to get into a pissing contest with or try to measure the perverbial size of our audio brains
at the risk being rude and of course never meaning to
i dont care what you think i am doing or not doing this was simply an opinion and a suggestion on a combo i know works because we have installed it in several g body and a similar set up in many f body cars.
so that being said
to the origional poster you have my opinion take it for what it is worth to you
to you... krap talker
if you would like to disagree fine i am well aware that sealed vs. ported has long been a heated debate but lets try and save the name calling for the pre schoolers and stay on the subject
i will soon post a soubd bit of the set up so all of you car hear it and tell me what you think i will also have db levels from the next crank it up in january
nuder,
Sorry I was a bit abrasive in my post, but it's hard not to react to, "sealed boxes suck!" without any base of fact... I was trying to give the original poster an answer to his question. Sorry to infer that you were talking crap. Just seemed that way to me. You are entitled to your opinion, of course. Good luck with that 4 cubic foot box in an F-body.
Dean, I'd be happy to listen to your thoughts off the board. Shoot me an email and I'll give you my number.
Erik
Sorry I was a bit abrasive in my post, but it's hard not to react to, "sealed boxes suck!" without any base of fact... I was trying to give the original poster an answer to his question. Sorry to infer that you were talking crap. Just seemed that way to me. You are entitled to your opinion, of course. Good luck with that 4 cubic foot box in an F-body.
Dean, I'd be happy to listen to your thoughts off the board. Shoot me an email and I'll give you my number.
Erik
just a nuder 6
Member
- Joined
- Jun 25, 2004
no prob
and i didnt mean to come across that way but in a sacastic way joking way.
o yeah and just for the record the 4 cu. ft. box is in a g body not an f body
i was simply stating the maximum effieciency requirments for the 10" rockford p 3 subs
i know this because well thats what rockford told me
no hard feelings though just a little debate thats all
and i didnt mean to come across that way but in a sacastic way joking way.
o yeah and just for the record the 4 cu. ft. box is in a g body not an f body
i was simply stating the maximum effieciency requirments for the 10" rockford p 3 subs
i know this because well thats what rockford told me
no hard feelings though just a little debate thats all
Been there, done that. I've built both types of boxes for G bodies and F bodies, not counting trucks. The box type needed/wanted should depend on the amount of room your willing to give up, the amount of power you have, the type of music you listen to and the driver being used. The sealed or ported enclosure will forever be debated. I used to build exactly what someone asked for, but got too many people pissed when their subs sounded like sh!#. Now I ask what driver they are using and plug the specs into BassBox 6 to design the enclosure and tell them how much room they give up and what it will cost. Some go for it, some start asking questions which I answer. The shops around here don't like to build boxes any more, so they get farmed out. There are about 4 folks that don't work for shops that build boxes. If they don't like my answer they get sent to one of the other guys that do the same thing. What sub? Plug in specs, heres what you get.
sealed or ported the war will never end... in my experence it first depends on what brand you use some perform better in sealed some in ported. second would be the type of music you listen to. sealed boxes tend to perform better for a quick, tight, punchy bass, where ported boxes are more often used to get the lower more "boommy" type bass. i have built loads of both types of boxes and like both of them..in a torbo t/a i will agree with the guys who say firing up towards the rear window... these cars (t/a, firebird, camero) are incredible for this reason, the bass just gets compresed of that rear glass so well. anyway a couple of tens or even a single twelve will do a great job....... good luck!!!!
