Suggestions on how to treat the floor pans ..pics inside

Fast4Ward

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2005
it looks pretty good to me and i already sprayed some rust fix on it...comes out clear and dries primer...i should have taken pics before i sprayed it.
anyway i was about to put the carpet back in and thinking i should treat this now before it gets worse.
any products out there that will seep in around the brackets and stuff, i didn't scrape anything.
what you guys think?...i'm sure it will hold up for good amount years with the way its now take care of:cool:
i can't even remember what POR 15 is? but have heard of it?
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por15

paint over rust 15. i did the floor on my old blue t with this stuff,works great. wire wheel what you can,vacum,brush on. glob it on around seat brackets. i let it dry for 2 days & then spray bombed it with a can of duplicolor(dark blue metallic). floor looked brand new when it was done. i bought a quart can of it off the internet.
 
I second that. I will also add that you should knock loose whatever sealer you can along that rust line and use the por15 filler to seal it. 20 bucks a tube but the stuff dries like concrete:cool: Congrats to you for saving your floor before it gets worse! A lot of us weren't so lucky.

I also suggest you coat the entire floor with it. The stuff keeps for a few weeks maybe so you just as well use it up. Just make sure you wear old clothes and go slow with it. A box of disposable gloves and a old sweatshirt are a must at minimum. Have fun LOL! It's worth it
 
Wow. I just did this about four months ago. Took pictures each step of the way and still too stupid or old (whichever comes first) to post here. But here's how I did it: Do what the fellas here said...wire brush all the rust spots. Vacuum up with a wet/dry vacuum cleaner. Then order POR15 SILVER. Silver is thicker and fills holes more effeciently than black. Then, using the marine cleaner which comes with the kit, put some in a spray bottle, spray all over the rust spots. Scrub it well, vacuum up with the wet/dry vacuum. Then use the second can, which is the metal prep, brush all over the cleaned area. Let sit for about 30 minutes, then vacuum up the rest. Then, put on the POR15 SILVER with a brush everywhere you prepped. Do what not a v8 said...glob around the seat mounts and ribs, even under it. Let this dry, then paint over with whatever color Krylon indoor/outdoor spray paint you want. I used black. Man, you wouldn't believe how great this came out. And by using a shop wet/dry vacuum, I could do it all in the garage without rinsing it out with a hose. I've got their website for you below. I recommend you use the super starter kit, which is $19.80 plus shipping. Remember when you take the contents out of the can, pour what you need in a little cup, as it's best not to put the unused stuff back into the can, this goes for the prep and cleaner, too. That's why I used a small spray bottle for those two.
Anyway, this is pretty easy to do, just take your time, be patient. And DON'T, for God's sake, get that POR15 on your hands/fingers. It'll only come off after you've aged about 59 years!!!:eek: Wear gloves. I did this months ago and still have silver fingernails!:tongue:(but they haven't rusted or cracked at all!!!!!:rolleyes:)

Here's the site: POR15, Inc. - Stop Rust Permanently - Repair Gas & Fuel Tanks

Good luck with it, I think you'll be really pleased and happy that you saved not only money, but your floors and your sanity.:eek:

Bruce '87 Grand National
 
I was in a Sherwin Williams auto paint store today and they had POR15 on the shelf. I also had used it a few years ago and the results were great. I had a light layer of surface rust on the bottom of my 86 GN (25k miles only). I did the three step process. Car looks like new again. I'll try to post pics if I can find them.
 
I just POR 15 'd my floors in the GN 2 weeks ago had one small hole rusted through about 1/8-3/16 and used the POR Patch to fix that.

Scrubbed all the rust ares..mostly surface on mine... with a wire brush.
Then vacumed the loose stuff up

For the hole I cleaned the back side of the pin rust hole put some tape on it and then put the POR Patch on the inside and let that dry and then put the stuff on the back side of the hole as well .

Then I did one coat of silver and then one coat of Black.

Tape off the seat studs cause the stuff is VERY stout and will make putting the nuts back on a pain.

If you get a small amount of some of the plastic interiro trim then it comes off with a clean rag and thinner but you have to get to it ASAP while its wet.

Gloves are a must, if its gets on your skin it will wear off.

I have fixed rust holes big enough to stick two or three fingers in (hey no sex jokes :biggrin:) on cars with the fiberglass sheet they sell and POR15 and it works awesome.

Cant even compare it to bondo

I bought mine straight from POR15
 
Think some POR 15 will fix this? Consider yourself lucky :biggrin: I'm about to go into the garage and start cutting out floor pans.
 
wow, you guys are way better than Google:cool: ...i was really at a loss and knew no details about por 15. thnx again.
 
Pod 15 is supposed to work well. You can also you a spot blaster to rid of the rust then use a quality 2k epoxy over it. The high end shops I know do it this way. There old school and say por 15 is just a band aid. Blasting it gets rid if it.
 
Eastwood's rust converter and rust encapsulater would also work well here.
The rust scale really needs to be removed no matter what your using.

GC
 
If you're going to pull the interior to get to all of the floor area, might also consider pulling down the headliner. It's not hard once the seats are out. Set it to the side and put a little POR on the roof. It will have light surface rust... I did mine as an extra measure...
 
Pod 15 is supposed to work well. You can also you a spot blaster to rid of the rust then use a quality 2k epoxy over it. The high end shops I know do it this way. There old school and say por 15 is just a band aid. Blasting it gets rid if it.

Anyone that has seen my car knows it is one big bandaid;) Wish I had money for a rust free shell
 
Think some POR 15 will fix this? Consider yourself lucky :biggrin: I'm about to go into the garage and start cutting out floor pans.

You know, I had a bad headache all day long. It finally went away after all afternoon working in my garage. Then I looked at your floors in the picture you supplied.....my headache returned and it hurts even more.:eek: Thanks. Jeez, I've never seen floorboards that bad. I really feel for you. How in hell did it get that bad? What happened? Hope you can fix it like new, now I have to go get some aspirins.:frown:

Bruce '87 Grand National
 
If you're going to pull the interior to get to all of the floor area, might also consider pulling down the headliner. It's not hard once the seats are out. Set it to the side and put a little POR on the roof. It will have light surface rust... I did mine as an extra measure...
excellent thought, its all i dreamed last night;), i had pulled the liner off and scraped the board some months ago...one thing after another as usual..i've had my car on the road 3 days out of 365:eek:....hopefully its about to change in another month.
 
excellent thought, its all i dreamed last night;), i had pulled the liner off and scraped the board some months ago...one thing after another as usual..i've had my car on the road 3 days out of 365:eek:....hopefully its about to change in another month.

Famous last words.... :biggrin: I'm still working on a few things also... It truly never ends...
 
Think some POR 15 will fix this? Consider yourself lucky :biggrin: I'm about to go into the garage and start cutting out floor pans.

I had the same thing but not as bad!.(not the car in my sig).I will tell you that you have a windshield leak!... Buy yourself a mig welder and go to town!
 
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