The right stuff detailing rear disc

gnjrok

New Member
Joined
May 23, 2011
Anybody try the right stuff detailing conversion kit for sale on eBay? Wondering I it will bolt up without clearance issues.
 
For that price you can buy a lot more than that. Look up flynbye for the brackets already made and you can either buy just the brackets and buy the rotors and calipers locally or buy everything from them. Much less expensive and all the replacement parts are OEM so you can go to a regular parts store if you need parts.;)
 
I looked at the flynbye kits. Looks like they're using the 3rd gen f-body calipers but they get $885 for essentially the same thing. I will need to clear 15" wheels and want the bling factor slotted/drilled. Are those calipers any better than the eldo ones? Other than aluminum vs cast?
 
If you want to go really cheap you can get weld on brackets for less than $20 per side and use the eldo calipers along with a Blazer or F body rotor. It would cost less than $200 for everything but you do have to weld the bracket onto the axle tube. If you use a B body caliper you won't have a parking brake but that cuts the cost to about $125 for everything.

I ended up using the 4th gen F body rear brakes on mine and it requires a little fab work as well some minor welding but it's surprisingly inexpensive, and if you need parts they come straight off the parts shelf.;)
 
Hey Charlie
I have heard that the rear disc makes for a soft pedal, in that the axle has movement in and out, and pushes the
pads away from the rotor, causing a soft or low pedal.
any validity to this?
 
Hey Charlie
I have heard that the rear disc makes for a soft pedal, in that the axle has movement in and out, and pushes the
pads away from the rotor, causing a soft or low pedal.
any validity to this?

Yes and no. If you convert to disc rear you need to change the master and prop valve. If the caliper is hard mounted rather than a floating design like the fronts are then the rotor can move in and out and compress the caliper to some degree in a C clip axle set up. While a drum brake is held at a set location for the shoes the pads have much less gap so movement can cause the gap to open, but that's why most calipers are a floating design to allow for movement.;) .

One other thing that can cause issues is not changing the proportioning valve from the drum design to the disc design is that drums have a 5 lb residual valve and discs usually have a 2 lb residual valve. Drums also take a larger volume of fluid to activate and discs need more pressure.
 
I think as long as its a floating caliper (which these are) the whole caliper should shift rather than compress the piston. It should be no different than warped rotors on your front
 
Was looking around and found bolt-in, cnc machined brackets for the eldo calipers on ebay, but seems extremely pricey for 2 brackets, $119 + $16 shipping
 
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