Tick Tick Tick..Your ears required

1

1980monteturbo

Turbowtie
Joined
Jul 11, 2006
Hi to all
Im another poster boy of bad luck
I have a ticking noise that occures when engine reaches operating temp (160 deg). Have a listen here..
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=5952623642386264181
FYI cold idle..
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=6350472210367260099
This is a fresh rebuilt engine with less than 400-500 easy driven mi. @ 5# or less( just about finished 3rd tank of 94) I just boosted it to 15-16# and all ok as a test.
Through process of elimination , Im 99.9% sure its in the engine.
Previous owner had this quirk also prior to rebuild but was expected to be cleared up after the machinist and mechanics did there thing. The motor is built for 10s in mind. All people involved are reputable and experienced with high HP LC2 's ( friends of many in this community) , however they are baffled too.
Anyone have similar experience or ideas what to look for when this lemon is pulled?

Thanks in advance
Steve
 
The 1st clip sound like lifters sticking, or convertor bolts tapping.

The 2nd clip sounds a bit more ominous- like a rod knock....
 
Pull the valve covers and see if all of the pushrods are turning and moving? Of course there is always the possiblity of an exhaust leak.
Try putting a screwdriver on the cam sensor and the other end to your ear. Also, check the clearance at your crank sensor. Hopefully it's something easy to fix.
 
Your first clip sounds like mine.

It's been doing it for three years now. It only ticks once it's warmed up.

It keeps getting faster and faster and oil pressure is fine. Car started off stock running 13.50's and now 11.50's.

Is it RPM sensitive? Mine goes away under load, like when the AC is on or if your turning the steering wheel. It's very weird. No one has ever been able to figure it out.

Like I said, the car runs great and always has.

Converter bolts have been checked, I have never checked the cam sensor.
 
I had two motors in my car. Both had the damn ticking sound that was rpm sensitive and just drove me nuts. Recently, I installed new Champion heads and a cam and the sound is gone. I'm not suggesting that the heads or cam fixed it, but now it's gone. The more I think about this the more I think it was the lifters. This is the first time I have had genuine GM lifters in the car and I measured the preload very carefully.
 
Sounds like one of the pushrods is too tight.

Does the car have adjustable pushrods?

Did you check preload on each lifter, did you measure the length of each pushrod to make sure they all are the same length?

Sounds pretty bad when hot.

Almost sounds worse on the passenger side #6 intake valve area, pull the valve cover, what rocker arms?

BW
 
my 89 gmc s15 jimmy with a 4.3 does the same thing after i put a new engine in. it is comming from the torque converter area and i rechecked the bolts to the flexplate and the crankshaft and there tight, so i thing it is in the torque converter itself.....
 
My car does the same. Very very slight tap at idle but under load at about 2k top of 1st gear it taps then goes away. at cruise it does it about 2k. 60 -65 mph. Car runs great and idles smooth. I see your inspection cover is missing. If you have it put it on and see if the tap is less noticable.

Curt

87GN
 
did you check your flexplate prior from dropping in the fresh engine? spider cracks,or damages to flexplate cuases tickling,knocking, ect.
 
1980monteturbo said:
Hi to all
Im another poster boy of bad luck
I have a ticking noise that occures when engine reaches operating temp (160 deg). Have a listen here..
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=5952623642386264181
FYI cold idle..
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=6350472210367260099
This is a fresh rebuilt engine with less than 400-500 easy driven mi. @ 5# or less( just about finished 3rd tank of 94) I just boosted it to 15-16# and all ok as a test.
Through process of elimination , Im 99.9% sure its in the engine.
Previous owner had this quirk also prior to rebuild but was expected to be cleared up after the machinist and mechanics did there thing. The motor is built for 10s in mind. All people involved are reputable and experienced with high HP LC2 's ( friends of many in this community) , however they are baffled too.
Anyone have similar experience or ideas what to look for when this lemon is pulled?

Thanks in advance
Steve
Click to expand...
Flat tappet cam !!!!! If so, was it broken in rite. If all else is ok, I would phocus in that direction. If a lobe is going south, you can damage that new motor quickly. Dont take any chances.
 
Hi again to all
Thanks for everyones 2 cents
I just want to first mention that the cam is comps gn flat tap hyd.( 2k rpm 20 min.) Lt1 springs. Stock rockers & rods.
Converter is new restalled d5 2800-3000 'ish (<1500 mi. behind a 14 sec 350 that had seen track 15-20 runs)
Flexplate not checked, might have micro issues, I may fall back on your suggestion jusa6. Motor runs (sound) similar to Curts & justabuickv6. Preload and length- I have to ask builder.
I ran the screwdriver/ear ( garden hose, lumber too ) around and #6 is focal point. I believe its lifter as you mentioned Chris & BW. It makes most sence, oil pressure falls to around 15 and oil is thinner making it easier for lifter to bleed and collapes, especially under the LT1s. I could be wrong.
Sunday I'll pull the cover off to conferm.
Before I do I need a refresher on what to expect. When at idle, will oil spill out onto manifold or drain back to pan? Will I get a " happy ending " from rockers if rev'd ? I dont have old covers on hand to cut. Last time I did this was back in early '80s using a garden hose/ear and worked good . Also Im due for oil/filter change , should I consider thicker oil ? 5/50 20/50.., EOS from GM ? Anyone with same problem try diff grades with positive results? Running conventional 10/30 now. Is too thick asking for trouble?
Thanks again everyone. Back Sunday.
SS.
 
1980monteturbo said:
Hi again to all
Thanks for everyones 2 cents
I just want to first mention that the cam is comps gn flat tap hyd.( 2k rpm 20 min.) Lt1 springs. Stock rockers & rods.
Converter is new restalled d5 2800-3000 'ish (<1500 mi. behind a 14 sec 350 that had seen track 15-20 runs)
Flexplate not checked, might have micro issues, I may fall back on your suggestion jusa6. Motor runs (sound) similar to Curts & justabuickv6. Preload and length- I have to ask builder.
I ran the screwdriver/ear ( garden hose, lumber too ) around and #6 is focal point. I believe its lifter as you mentioned Chris & BW. It makes most sence, oil pressure falls to around 15 and oil is thinner making it easier for lifter to bleed and collapes, especially under the LT1s. I could be wrong.
Sunday I'll pull the cover off to conferm.
Before I do I need a refresher on what to expect. When at idle, will oil spill out onto manifold or drain back to pan? Will I get a " happy ending " from rockers if rev'd ? I dont have old covers on hand to cut. Last time I did this was back in early '80s using a garden hose/ear and worked good . Also Im due for oil/filter change , should I consider thicker oil ? 5/50 20/50.., EOS from GM ? Anyone with same problem try diff grades with positive results? Running conventional 10/30 now. Is too thick asking for trouble?
Thanks again everyone. Back Sunday.
SS.
Click to expand...
There will always be a puddle of oil around the both back corners of the head, so running the motor with covers off, , its gonna get messy, so prepare.
Check that cam real good. Some years back, Comp had a 218/218 tappet cam that had a defect and quite a few people lost motors over it including some of the great vendors on this board, and my self. It starts with a come and go tick, and progresses quickly, then bam, its done. Good luck
 
Take off your valve covers and check the rocker arm shaft bolts, if these get over torqued they will snap off, letting the shaft flex. Don't ask me how I know... :eek: My 84 engine sounded just like that, I wouldn't drive it ...
Chuck
 
84BuickGNYorkPA said:
Take off your valve covers and check the rocker arm shaft bolts, if these get over torqued they will snap off, letting the shaft flex. Don't ask me how I know... :eek: My 84 engine sounded just like that, I wouldn't drive it ...
Chuck
Click to expand...
been there :( overtorqued like 10 rocker shaft in a 5 year period,lol.....
 
Hi mcroz3 and all who replied.

Here is an update, hope it helps others.
The problem seems to have progressively cleared. Shortly after the first post I had Ken Seggie and Kirt Silbermann check it out. Both say its common for some new valve trains to sound this way at first. Ken knows of several 11 sec engines that have same sounds and running like that for years. Nature of the beast ? They recomended continue using Rottella and EOS . When I went to see Kirt I was running the engine at higher sustained rpm's on the hwy for the first time - was in a rush, when I arrived at his shop the motor sounded better ( just slight ticking ). After listening with stethoscope they gave their blessing to turn up the wick from 6-8# to what ever the knock guage allows ( 16 ish now ). Intresting conversation with Kirt, commented that full break-in could take 10,000 mi or more untill the engine/valve train is loose. Some 5.0 guys consider even more for a proper break-in !
As far as it goes now, the more miles the better it seems. I'll try and post another vid clip for you to hear when the weather clears up, rain falling now.

fingers crossed

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2431338/

Steve
 
Glad to hear that it's getting better.

Mine still does it. Always has. I don't let it bother me. Yeah, sometimes it sounds like a crap while I am sitting there idling at the red light but that just makes it all the more better. Makes it sound less intimadating. Then I put the hurt on em.
 
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