Me and my friends started to rip the top half of the block off today on my 87 GN. Once we got the right tools, it went decently quick. We removed the AC for good (AC clutch is out, didnt want to pay to fix it) and got the alternator, AC compressor, hood, left valve cover, 3 bolts off the manifold, and labeled all the vaccuum lines and spark plug wires. We are doing this all inside the car because we dont have an engine stand handy. Once we started, we realized how hard it really is to do it. What we are installing are comp cam valve springs and a power plate from RJC. Besides taking the whole engine out, anyone got any other suggestions on making this easier? TIA.
Tips/Tricks to working on GN engine
- Thread starter Robes87GN
- Start date
Do you have the tool to remove the valve springs for a turbo regal???? It makes the job a whole lot easier..... Be sure to have a cylinder pressurizing tool before you remove the valve locks!!! When you're ready to replace the valve springs on one cylinder take a rubber hammer or a ball peen hammer and strike the top of the valve....This will make the keepers easier to remove after the cylinder is pressurized...
As far as your ac compressor, my clutch in mine doesn't work either but I still bolted everything back together and it didn't make any noise so I just unplugged the electrical plug-in for the compressor so it won't run... It just freewheels....
If there's one thing I've learned about these cars and tearing engines out and etc.... You better have patience and lots of it.......
If I lived a little closer I would stop down and give you a hand...LOL
As far as your ac compressor, my clutch in mine doesn't work either but I still bolted everything back together and it didn't make any noise so I just unplugged the electrical plug-in for the compressor so it won't run... It just freewheels....
If there's one thing I've learned about these cars and tearing engines out and etc.... You better have patience and lots of it.......
If I lived a little closer I would stop down and give you a hand...LOL
blackbuick87
Senior Member
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
You also better have a full set of standard and metric wrenches and sockets
If you have the dough now is the time to put a cam in if it is in your future plans. Also change the timing chain and gears, that is a must and is cheap.
Good luck getting the AC compressor out, it is a blast
If it were my car I would take it out. It gives you more room, saves weight, and its one less thing that can go wrong. I have seen bearings go bad on compressors and lock right up, and when that happens you are stranded.
Do a search on AC delete and you will find the right belt.
If you have the dough now is the time to put a cam in if it is in your future plans. Also change the timing chain and gears, that is a must and is cheap.
Good luck getting the AC compressor out, it is a blast
If it were my car I would take it out. It gives you more room, saves weight, and its one less thing that can go wrong. I have seen bearings go bad on compressors and lock right up, and when that happens you are stranded.
Do a search on AC delete and you will find the right belt.
Holy sh!t, you're installing valve springs and a power plate and you need to take the engine apart why?!?!?! Crap dude, pull the plugs and valve covers, pressurize the cylinder you're working on, and using the proper tool, swap the springs. Repeat for each cylinder. Power plates are very easy, and you actually don't have to remove the vacuum lines. Just remove the vacuum block. I don't understand why you are disassembling the engine so far for such a simple job. Hell, even my first time we swapped the valve springs in a couple hours.
You will need an A/C delete pulley to remove the compressor completely, many vendors sell them. I can't beleive these guys are telling you to pull the motor!
You will need an A/C delete pulley to remove the compressor completely, many vendors sell them. I can't beleive these guys are telling you to pull the motor!
One tip that will help is to have a magnet so that when removing spring retainers they don't fall down thru the oil holes in the head!! Then you will have to pull it further apart!!!You don't have to pull engine to do that job,did mine in about 3-4 hrs taking my time.
Then you will have to pull it further apart!!!You don't have to pull engine to do that job,did mine in about 3-4 hrs taking my time.BlackBandit
God loves Buicks!
- Joined
- Mar 29, 2003
It took me about 3-4 hours to do mine as well. After you pull all the plugs the engine spins pretty freely so you can just pop the valvle covers and rocker arms off and work right down the head. Use a magnet like 2qwik4u said (the extendo magnet things work well) to catch the retainers. I would also get some of those blue shop towel things and sorta plug all your oil return holes. That way you can pick up a couple of extra keepers so if you drop one you KNOW it didn't make it into the engine and can replace it without worrying. Oh yeah, if you can't find or make a tool to presureize the cylinders you can just feed a bunch of rope into the cylinder you're working on when it's at BDC and then rotate the engine until the rope hits the vavles. That does a great job of making sure the vavles don't fall. If you do use pressure you should have the piston you're working on at TDC just in case. hth
On the other hand, if you pull the motor maybe you could turn it over and shake a valve out if you drop one.......
On the other hand, if you pull the motor maybe you could turn it over and shake a valve out if you drop one.......
Yeah, right now we have the turbo taken off, almost the other valve cover, all the manifold bolts off, the throttle cables, and all that jazz. Well, since it is pretty much stripped down, it is a good learning experience. I have practically nil engine knowledge previous to my Turbo Buick... talk about a crash course.
Why are you pulling the intake manifold????
Or do you just mean the upper plenum?
BTW, you probably won't be able to keep the piston at tdc with air compressing the cylinder, the air pressure will force the piston down, which is OK, it will still hold the valve up. Ditto on the strong magnet thing. I bought one of those Craftsman extendo dealy things, super strong. Makes it easy.
Or do you just mean the upper plenum?
BTW, you probably won't be able to keep the piston at tdc with air compressing the cylinder, the air pressure will force the piston down, which is OK, it will still hold the valve up. Ditto on the strong magnet thing. I bought one of those Craftsman extendo dealy things, super strong. Makes it easy.
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