Another way of determining the optimal tire pressure is by "reading" the burnout marks left by your tires on the concrete.
A burnout mark with an impression of two outer edge lines and no black marks in the center means you have too little air pressure.
A burnout mark with only an impression of rubber traces in the middle of the rubber patch means you have too much air pressure.
Optimal tire pressure will leave a burnout mark on the pavement that is smooth and evenly black throughout the width of the impression.
Becareful not to get caught up in the "lower is better" theory of tire pressure. Start at around 20 PSI and work your way down. Make small incremental changes.
Burnout length and time --- Assuming your tires are not dry rotted they will stick if they are around 15 degrees hotter than the pavement. The hotter the pavement the more heat you need in the tire. In colder weather, short burnouts are all that is needed. You would be surprised at how fast your tires heat up. Long John Force style burnouts are not needed. The only purpose they serve is shortening the life of your tires and your transmission's sprag. If you are really spending alot of time at the track then invest in a $50.00 thermal gun from Sears. You will be able to see the track surface temp's and your tire temp's after the burnout.
I hope I have given you some useful information that has worked for me and my cars.