To Pass

[Buger99]

I wanna go down to LA for the test & tune and I'm just wondering what is all needed to pass tech for a high 11 sec car.Not real fast but I have been going to the local track for while and all of a sudden they had pulled me to the side and told me that they wanted to see my :drive shaft loop,racing jacket and some other stuff. I'm just wondering so I dont go to LA to just not pass tech. "THANKS" :smile:

 

[turbofabricator]

For 11.50 and slower you only need a drive shaft loop, and M00 or newer helmet (M05 is prefered.) M95 is no longer allowed. Seat belts only need to be stock. Wheel studs MUST extend, at least the diameter of the stud, into the hex portion of the nut. No fire coat required. Battery must be secure and if moved, must have a battery cut-off switch located at rear of car, and it MUST shut the engine off when activated. If you use the factory battery hold down, you are fine IF it is very secure. They will try and wiggle it. There must be at least a 12 oz radiator overflow. Stock GN is fine. Neatral safety switch. They might try and start your car in drive. If it starts, they will send you packin'. No more than 12" of rubber hose is allowed in your entire fuel systm, unless it's factory stock (like our cars have). Braided steel hose and push lok hose is allowed.
If you run faster than 11.50 then you need a roll bar and fire coat. A fire extinguisher is also needed. (portable is ok) PLUS everything lised above AND SFI approved seat belts that are less than 2 years old. (BIG SCAM IN MY OPINION!!) If you run faster than 10.00 or over 135mph, then the whole world changes for you.:biggrin:
I hope I have that all correct. Read here to verify. NHRA News: NHRA announces certain rule changes for 2007 (11/14/2006)

 

[Buger99]

I have the stock lug nuts is that fine and you also have to have a battery cut-off switch in the rear. WHY

 

[turbofabricator]

Stock wheels and lug nuts are good. You ONLY need the battery disconnect switch IF you have moved the battery from the stock location. Just make SURE the battery is snug in the stock location with the stock hold down. If you do NOT have a stock hold down, you will need to fab a strong steel one and use a 3/8" bolt(s) to hold it in place. If you have the stock hold down and the battery is smaller and is not snug, use a piece of plywood (painted black) to shim the battery tight. Around here, that is one of their BIGGEST pet peeves. They always grab the battery and give it a shake. If your car is basically stock looking, then you will be fine (to 11.50) Just a safety loop and good helmet.

 

[turbojimmy]

You need a fire jacket if you have an aftermarket turbo. I went back and forth with my local tech on this and ultimately called NHRA to get a ruling. The tech was correct - if you have an aftermarket turbo, even if your car came with a turbo from the factory, you need a fire jacket. You could lie and say your turbo is stock. I could've gotten away with that with my PT-61 because my stock cover fit over it. This BB70 I have this year.....not so much.

Jim

 

[turbofabricator]

You need a fire jacket if you have an aftermarket turbo. I went back and forth with my local tech on this and ultimately called NHRA to get a ruling. The tech was correct - if you have an aftermarket turbo, even if your car came with a turbo from the factory, you need a fire jacket. You could lie and say your turbo is stock. I could've gotten away with that with my PT-61 because my stock cover fit over it. This BB70 I have this year.....not so much.

Jim

WOW! never heard that before! I'll look into it though.

 

[turbojimmy]

WOW! never heard that before! I'll look into it though.

I think it was a mid-year change last year. I was caught off guard by it myself when the tech asked me whether my turbo was stock. I proudly declared that it was an upgrade and he asked where my fire jacket was.

Jim

 

[Buger99]

BIG THANKS for all the good feed back