Transmission nuisance leaks help needed

[HotAir6 v.2.0]

I'm replacing my transmission cooling lines with new Stainless Steel lines and am having trouble getting the line to seal. I purchased stock replacements with flared fittings. I have looked at the flare and the fitting and both look to be in good shape.

I have scoured the forums and the search function was unable to turn up anything that answered my questions.
1) How to get the flared fitting to seal?
- I know the line needs to come in pretty straight to the port. I can see it's a little off but can't seem to get it to stay straight once I start to install it.
2) Other options for making the connections to the transmission and cooler?
- The line I pulled off had the flare removed and some rubber hose with attached to a fitting with a barb and some some hose clamps. It didn't leak so I'll resort back to this if needed.
3) Has anyone replaced the hard tubing with a hose?
- I think this would be the best way to replace the line. If someone has done this I'd like to know the length used and any other info you have.

Any input will be helpful. Thank you

 

[mikestertwo]

It sounds like the flare on the tubing is defective. If the line will not stay straight when you tighten the fitting that is a clue the flare is crooked. The problem with stainless is it is hard and does not conform easily.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Is the ss flare doubled?
Are you sure the angle on the flare and the fitting match? IE: AN37* vs 45*.
If the fitting is really close to the bend, the flare is possibly out of round. [IE:tubing crushed at the bend area.]

 

[v6turbo87]

Cut off the flares and go with regular compression fittings.

 

[Dave Dunbar]

Rubber hose on a cooling line is a great "quick fix". But some of the cooling properties of the metal lines are lost. Also, in colder weather, because of the thicker fluid the hose can blow off. Plus it looks like crap.

 

[INEEDAGN]

Probably because the stainless lines are so damn hard they don't conform (squish) when tightened if they are even double flared (most flaring tools can't double flare stainless cause it's so damn hard).

So "fix it like ford does". IE find a rubber o ring that fits nicely inside the brass trans fitting and tighten it down and let the o ring do the work. Don't feel bad, every 90s era ford that ever left the factory had orings in the cooler fittings.

 

[jopaustu]

Rubber hose on a cooling line is a great "quick fix". But some of the cooling properties of the metal lines are lost. Also, in colder weather, because of the thicker fluid the hose can blow off. Plus it looks like crap.

I'm going to jump in with a question if you guys don't mind. I am all of a sudden having problems with flares out of the stock location transmission cooler. I'd Like to get rid of the old brass 90* fittings and steel lines and replace with a 90* and possible flexible lines (not rubber hose). My problem is between the cooler and the union From the tranny. Curious for some input and found this recent thread in the search. By the way I would like to retain the use of the transmission cooler in my Alradco radiator

 

[HotAir6 v.2.0]

It sounds like the flare on the tubing is defective. If the line will not stay straight when you tighten the fitting that is a clue the flare is crooked. The problem with stainless is it is hard and does not conform easily.

I looked the flare over pretty good and it looks OK. I think the main issue is the port in the transmission doesn't have anything to react the ID of the flare. I'm used to seen a cone that sandwiches the flared tubing between the cone and the nut. Of course I'm using a flashlight, mirror and laying on my back to look in the port so my visibility could be better. I'llake another look this weekend.

 

[HotAir6 v.2.0]

Is the ss flare doubled?
Are you sure the angle on the flare and the fitting match? IE: AN37* vs 45*.
If the fitting is really close to the bend, the flare is possibly out of round. [IE:tubing crushed at the bend area.]

Thanks for the response. It's not double flared. I'll double check the angles of the flare and the nut to make sure they are the same. I measured for ovality and it's not that.

 

[HotAir6 v.2.0]

Cut off the flares and go with regular compression fittings.

That's what i'm thinking too. thanks

 

[HotAir6 v.2.0]

Rubber hose on a cooling line is a great "quick fix". But some of the cooling properties of the metal lines are lost. Also, in colder weather, because of the thicker fluid the hose can blow off. Plus it looks like crap.

That's what we had on the tubing i'm replacing. Granted it worked for years with no issues, but it did look like crap.

 

[HotAir6 v.2.0]

Probably because the stainless lines are so damn hard they don't conform (squish) when tightened if they are even double flared (most flaring tools can't double flare stainless cause it's so damn hard).

So "fix it like ford does". IE find a rubber o ring that fits nicely inside the brass trans fitting and tighten it down and let the o ring do the work. Don't feel bad, every 90s era ford that ever left the factory had orings in the cooler fittings.

I like the o-ring idea, sound like a slick easy solution. I'll call around and see if I can find one. Thanks

 

[HotAir6 v.2.0]

I'm going to jump in with a question if you guys don't mind. I am all of a sudden having problems with flares out of the stock location transmission cooler. I'd Like to get rid of the old brass 90* fittings and steel lines and replace with a 90* and possible flexible lines (not rubber hose). My problem is between the cooler and the union From the tranny. Curious for some input and found this recent thread in the search. By the way I would like to retain the use of the transmission cooler in my Alradco radiator

My first choice is to run a stainless steel braided hydraulic line up through the frame rail to the Rad Cooler. I plan to stop by a couple of shops in my area and see if we can figure something out. If I end up finding a hose that works I'll share that info. Custom length hose is pretty easy once you figure out the fitting, temperature and pressure requirements. For this application I assume we are at no more than 300F and maye 100-150 psi. If anyone has more accurate info on temp and pressure I would appreciate it.

 

[happy4444]

any update on a fix??

 

[HotAir6 v.2.0]

I ended up going with hoses. I still have the brand new CRES tubes in case the hoses just don't work for some reason. I have the hose sitting on my workbench. THey need to be cut to length so I'll have to update once I'm done with it. I'm pretty excited about getting away from the hard lines that run right by the header. I'm pretty sure I can run the hoses right up through the frame rail. This radiator "swap" has been a very time consuming effort.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

My first choice is to run a stainless steel braided hydraulic line up through the frame rail to the Rad Cooler. I plan to stop by a couple of shops in my area and see if we can figure something out. If I end up finding a hose that works I'll share that info. Custom length hose is pretty easy once you figure out the fitting, temperature and pressure requirements. For this application I assume we are at no more than 300F and maye 100-150 psi. If anyone has more accurate info on temp and pressure I would appreciate it.

Cooler circuit psi is a lot less.

 

[happy4444]

I ended up going with hoses. I still have the brand new CRES tubes in case the hoses just don't work for some reason. I have the hose sitting on my workbench. THey need to be cut to length so I'll have to update once I'm done with it. I'm pretty excited about getting away from the hard lines that run right by the header. I'm pretty sure I can run the hoses right up through the frame rail. This radiator "swap" has been a very time consuming effort.

Im in the same exact boat, went to replace the radiator in January and still not finished due to trial and error fixing everything or revamping what was previously done half ass.

 

[HotAir6 v.2.0]

I ended up getting the Fragola hyd lines to work. I'll post some pics if anyone is interested. I really like the way it turned out.

 

[Royal-T-Ltd]

I ended up getting the Fragola hyd lines to work. I'll post some pics if anyone is interested. I really like the way it turned out.

If you don't mind - post a few pics up.... my trans lines developed a leak were it goes over the crossmember and I don't really want to run hard lines - my radiator isn't stock and I don't run the internal cooler.... I will probably use some jiffy-tite quick disconnects but want some ideas of hose lengths and routing.... thanks

aaron


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[TexasT]

I would have tried a couple new fittings, especially after I dropped the coin on the Ss lines.

http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/4L60E_4L80E_Transmission_cooling_line_fitti_p/002-00035340a.htm