TRZ control arms/ Wilwood brakes .....done w/pics

gnxtc2

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Joined
May 28, 2001
Need to put the car on a diet... car weighed 3700lbs with me in it (I weigh 250lbs). Yes, I know but powerlifting adds alot of muscle mass. Trying to bring down the car to 3400 with me in it.

Back on topic.

I bought the TRZ Motorsports upper and lower control arms from Cal Hartline. I decided to use 1st Gen F-body spindles instead of the G-body spindles, read lower and you will know why. I had to get the aluminum steering arms from TRZ to bolt to the spindles. Also you are going to need heim joints on the outer end.

Some data (all data is in pounds): I used a digital bathroom scale.

Stock upper control arms.......9.2
TRZ upper control arms.........5
Savings..............................4.2 x 2 = 8.4 total uppers

Stock lower control arms.......15
TRZ lower control arms..........7
Savings..............................8 x 2 = 16 total lowers

Stock G-body spindle............13
1st Gen F-body spindle...........5
Savings...............................8 x 2 = 16 total spindle

Stock disc...........................20.2
Wilwood rotor and hub...........9.8
Savings...............................10.4 x 2 = 20.8 total spindle

Stock caliper........................7
Wilwood caliper.....................2
Savings...............................5 x 2 = 10 total calipers

Total front end = 71.8lbs

I still have install:
- Fiberglass hood
- Manual steering
- Kirkey Seats
- Take out 1 door crash bar (took one out already)
- Aluminum rad support
- Chromoly transmission X-member (possible)

Need to get the car aligned. Rest of the pics are in the link in my sig.

P7040046.jpg


Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com
 
Need to put the car on a diet... car weighed 3700lbs with me in it (I weigh 250lbs). Yes, I know but powerlifting adds alot of muscle mass. Trying to bring down the car to 3400 with me in it.

gnxtc2@aol.com
ya powerlifting double cheesburgers will do that to you:eek:
 
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Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

Were your greasy cheeseburger fingers typing that link?;)
 
Billy,

Nice post. Which Willwod set up did you use? The Street/Heavy car version or the Strip/lightweight version? Part number?
 
They appear to be the street heavy version.
The difference I know is that the street rotors ave vented
like stock style where the race a single flat discs
IMO if you are gonna run the race fronts you better have
real good back brakes also.
 
Billy,

Nice post. Which Willwod set up did you use? The Street/Heavy car version or the Strip/lightweight version? Part number?

It's the middle version, Wilwood part # 140-1017 (1st Gen Camaro), Dynalite Drag Race Front Hub Kit.

The rotors are drilled, single flat discs. Yes, Otto I have Wilwood rear discs. My rear rotors are solid, vented discs (like stock) which I will change eventually, but not right now. Wilwood part # 140-2118-B

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com
 
I agree with Otto. I've seen a turbo Mustang that went too light duty on the brakes, and the rotors have some knarly heat spots all over them. The heat spots are hard spots that rise from the normal surface, messing your braking all up.

The weight savings does look very impressive.
 
I went to TRZ arms all around and still need to order my brakes (probably Wilwood) so this was very interesting to see. Looks great on there. Nice job.
 
Do the new control arms and spindle do anything for the bump steer problem?
 
Do the new control arms and spindle do anything for the bump steer problem?

Since I'm using the 1st Gen spindle, I am able to adjust the height of the tie rod. The steering arms do not have a tapered hole for a ball joint, they have a 1/2" hole which allows for the adjustment of the tie rod up or down. TRZ makes a bump steer kit which I have. I have not driven the car yet because I still have to align it.

I don't know if I have a pic of the set up. But I took a shot of it. The car is still on jack stands and the front suspension is hanging.

To correct bump steer....you draw an imaginary line from the lower front control arm bolt to the middle of the lower ball joint. The goal is to have the tie rod assembly at the same angle as the imaginary line.

Thanks to all

P7060052.jpg


Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com
 
I was told this also,The Steering arm should follow the lower control arm.
Nice job as always Billy
 
I think to minimize bump steer, the tie rod needs to follow an identical arc with the lower control arm. Is there a center link available to help do this?

The adjustable tie rod end height does help some.
 
I think to minimize bump steer, the tie rod needs to follow an identical arc with the lower control arm. Is there a center link available to help do this?

The adjustable tie rod end height does help some.

I know Howe make a center link for our cars. I have no information about the center link. I am probably going to call them and find out more info on it. Steering - Stock Type Steering

It's the 3rd one down:
centerlinks.JPG


Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com
 
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