I'll use the bicycle ramp analogy. The ramp being pressure.
See to have a bicycle ramp you need to place blocks in the front and back of the ramp. Example 1 block in the front and 3 blocks in the back of the ramp.
The initial sets up this ratio of blocks. Meaning that turning the Initial up increases both blocks to front and back of ramp equally. So if you have 3 blocks in the front now now have 6 blocks in the back. And it makes the ramp more aggressive as you turn up the Initial.
The Blue Gain knob affects the back of the ramp more than it does the front. So from 1 in the front and 3 in the back.. goes 2 in the front and 5 in the back. The slope changes. This is affected as the boost rises the voltage sent to the pump becomes more aggressive.
On the Buick apps, I preset the boxes as they leave to make them plug-n-play. It should work as is when you install it. And only mess with the Initial once the system and engines tuning have been squared away.
Mid 11's for air fuel is too lean in my opinion for pump gas alcohol especially when starting to tune. Bring that down to mid 10's for air fuel and work on it from there.
Hope this helps.
Julio
Thanks for the reply. It's running race gas... no knock so far. I'll re-tune it for pump eventually, but wanted to make sure I had all the kinks worked out of everything first.
AFR (via the Innovate S/W) starts out in the high 10s/low 11s , then up to the 11.6/7 area in 3rd/4th gear. Boost is 21.x at the 1-2 shift, creeping up to the 26 psi at the top of 4th gear. I'll post a couple files/graphs, don't have them with me here.
I can pull the fuel back with the TT chip, but the car often has the battery unplugged (storage), so it'll lose those settings when that happens.
Really, it runs great as it is... I wouldn't have to mess with it at all. It does pop/miss every once in a while, but I suspect that a re-gapped set of plugs will clear that up. Seems a little lazy where the richer afrs are, but I don't think that's hurting much, as traction is a big enough problem as it is. :biggrin:
One thing that I wondered about from the install...
The instructions specify a brown/orange wire coming out of the PAC for the turn-on LED, the only wires like that on the box I have are running to the control knob. I ended up using the gray wire out of the PAC (solenoid activate? ) to run the turn-on LED. Seems to work fine as I have it wired... was I supposed to tap into the wire running to the control knob?
Thanks,
Dig
